Yeah, mine's a little heavier than I would have liked. I was told 'most builds are around 20 pounds', mine came in a bit over 22 with training wheels. But it appears to climb pretty well. I've only got two rides on it, but both were quite hilly and yesterday was a hilly TT, climbing generally felt good. Haven't weighed it yet with the race wheels, but they are deep so I don't expect them to be appreciably lighter than the nice training wheels the bike came with.

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Any run that doesn't include pooping in someone's front yard is a win.

From the lightest to the heaviest on that chart, you're talking about ONE POUND.

It is all about the engine and your position but with that being said, if I can achieve the same position on several bikes I am taking the lightest version possible. I do not see me changing to another build when my sub 15 lbs is AERO AND LIGHT!

I do not get involved in to many threads but this one is really good. Why because I got burned big time at Ironman Wisconsin last year because I am stupid. First do not believe what the bike manufacture claims what the bike weighes. They weight bikes with no pedals, no water, no flat kit and so on. Take your bike to a bike shop and get it weighed. And set the bike up ready to race before you do that. You are going to be surprised what the number is. I had a crappy bike at Wisconsin ( very hilly) and started checking everything. First, I raced a new bike that I did not weigh. It was set up with double x lab bottles in the rear plus a BTA in the front. When I weighed it, 24.75 pounds. I have 2 other super bikes one came in at 24.25 pounds the other at 23.75 pounds. These were race ready with water, and everything needed to race with. First thing I did is look at how I race. Took my lightest bike (S Works Shiv) and changed the bike on how I race. When I got done it came in at 20 pounds even, ready to race. Test came at Ironman Florida 70.3 which is hilly and windy the last 30 miles and turned in a great bike split. My goal this year is to build a bike, ready to race in the 18 pound range. Doing Wisconsin again. The Diamondback would probably do good on a flat course or one with just a few hills. It did not do to good in Kona even with a super biker on it. He had no legs left for the run. The bike that would be off my list is the P5x it weighes 22.7 pounds no pedals or anything else on board. So what am I telling you? A lot of the weight on the bike comes from you. But some of these bikes are heavy. I would not take the Diamondback or the P5x to Kona. If you want the lightest bike that would be a Strock but it going to cost you a cool 18000 dollars. LOL

So with that rant, I am interested in how much time you think 2lbs would save you

He is saving over 6lbs from the first time he raced to the next time he races. That is a fair bit of savings in a race set up. But again even at 2 lbs he is saving something.

As always aero will save you minutes and weight will save you seconds. They both are worth it if you are trying to win your age group or set a PB.

Sure, seconds count if winning an age group. So, per pound how much time you save?

If you race flat courses and you do train not much. If you race a course like Wisconsin, a lot. If you race Kona a lot there to, because not only are you dealing with long hills you are also dealing with the wind. If you want to haul a lot of weight, haul a lot of weight

Why dont yout answer the question? How much time?
So you race Kona a lot?

I have no idea how much time but I am sure that someone much more versed in such calculations can work that out. We are in a race against the clock so any seconds at an point in the race are worth saving. You just have to figure out how much you want to work or pay to get those minutes and seconds.

Here is one of my favorite blog posts from two of my favorite Bike Guys.
http://flocycling.blogspot.com/...-aero-vs-weight.html

Short version: If you are climbing the Alpe d'Huez, light weight beats aero... just barely.
If you are on any triathlon course that not an iconic mountain summit stage in the Tour de France, stressing about weight is probably not the most productive use of your time.

OK, so after some poking around on Google he would save about 25-30 seconds with the changes he made from the first time he raced the course to this time with his suggested changes.

If he was able to get his bike down to what mine weighs he would save just over 1 minute.

It is up to him to figure out the expense and/or time he wants to invest to save that 30 seconds.

Aero always trumps weight but both are important. One more than the other but together you have the best of both worlds. Triathletes need to stop thinking that it is one or the other. I have always done both.

Take a look at this.


https://www.velopress.com/bike-weight-and-the-myth-of-fast-bikes/


On a hilly route you will save some seconds on a climb with a lighter bike.


You will likely lose most of those seconds on the way back down I would have thought.


Someone mentioned weight being a disadvantage in the wind in Kona. I would like to hear why they think that might be the case, there is an argument that the wind would effect a heavier rider less.

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https://www.pbandjcoaching.com
https://www.thisbigroadtrip.com

Just barely for a triathlete. For a roadie that's a slaughter.

I'm not sure why this question comes up so much. Weight is very insignificant.

Take CCF's St. George 70.3 bike leg, which is one of the hillier courses on the circuit (i.e. weight matters much more than the average course). I did this race last year. Here's the sensitivity analysis relative to what I split on that course for 2.5 hours:

-2 lbs: 18 seconds faster
Baseline
2 lbs: 19 seconds slower

And these 2 lbs are nearly twice as much as the 1.1 lbs from lightest to heaviest in the OP. Sure, it matters a little. I tossed my bottles before the climb up Snow Canyon, for instance.

But there are so many bigger concerns in terms of improving your bike split that it's almost not even worth considering weight. Unless you have literally considered and optimized everything that matters more.

Optimize all aspect as much as possible but if you can become more aero and lighter why not.

The problem with the Andean is not the weight but to actually get the bike after ordering and taking my deposit a f@#king 7 months ago......my patience just came to an end and i'm about to cancel mine tomorrow. I have just had it with their crap about delivery estimates. Two weeks ago mine was as they said just arrivedcand one of the first to be assembled. Fast forward two weeks, no information on even its ready or a note when it will be shipped.

I wasn't to concerned about the weight because my IA FRD is also not the lightest but i live in a pancake flat country.

Too bad, because i just really was curious about this bike and liked the look of it.

Jeroen
Tri-Run.com

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Owner at TRIPRO, The Netherlands

Go to best bike split. Toss an extra 5lbs onto a bike. It doesn't cost you all that much time even on a hilly course like IMWI, Whistler or IMMT. Probably hurts your rolling resistance almost as much.

Remember, what goes up, must come down. The "real" penalty in a time trial is the higher top speed on the descent. On rolling hills, there's little or no disadvantage as heavier frame stores some energy on the approach and accelerates slower on the descent.

Other concern is the increase VI. This is reflected in my previous comment about higher top speed.

I'll tell you what I tell everyone. It's splitting hairs and almost meaningless unless it's a hill climb TT.

Your bike has these really cool things called multiple mechanical gear ratios. LEARN TO USE THEM CORRECTLY, learn to pace using a power meter, and stop worrying about bike frame weight. Might as well worry about whether your frame is black vs. white and how much the paint weighs.

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TrainingBible Coaching
http://www.trainingbible.com

Sorry to hear that. I got mine last Monday. What frame size did you order (mine's a medium)? It's a good bike and I've enjoyed the little time I've had on it (major complaint is that I don't like the base bar I chose and there's no good way to try another one in this consumer direct sales model). Hope yours comes soon.

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Any run that doesn't include pooping in someone's front yard is a win.

So how much should my paint weigh?

I ordered a size Large since that matches my stack and reach from the 56 IA FRD i own. I ordered it as bare as i could because i already ordered a zipp super9 and a set of 808/404 with disc brakes. Thought of going to Enve but they are really hard to source here in EU. And it would match my zipp vuka stealth cockpit. I have a tri shop so i can sell the wheels and bars but i'm just about done with them. I they can't ship this week i'm canceling, 7 months and still no bike but the most annoying part is their lack of communication. But happy that you get yours, i hope you enjoye it!

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Owner at TRIPRO, The Netherlands

I guess I should clarify my question, not looking for the fastest time up a hill...but rather a question of how well would an Andean go up hills compared to other bikes? Are there some tri bikes that climb better than others? Does it accelerate well or feel sluggish when pointed up a hill? If so, how important are weight and geometry? Certainly there are some road bikes which climb and accelerate better than others going up.

What is your build for getting to 18lbs.?

Check back I am in the process. Bike is do in a couple weeks will be changing things but do not know my starting point til I weigh it