This is why I qualified location since you didn't specify. There is a big difference between new hampshire and a 14er.

As for all the other comments in this thread about moment arm length, clever. As an engineer I've certainly never seen torque defined before. That must explain why we all ride around with the longest moment arms possible all the time.

Personally, I wouldn't go out of my way to try to select the 'perfect' arm length for a climbing bike and instead stick with whatever you're most comfortable with on your other bikes, but I understand that's not the type of objective answer you're looking for.

If it works, this is better than what I posted above.

I need to research if I can fit an 11-32 on the Propel. It's factory setup leaves me hurting on steep stuff if it happens later in a ride.

I'll never be good enough to tell, but some people claim that running a tighter group in the back on the flats can help optimize your cadence and gear choice (11-23 for a pancake flat course).

I'll share my experience because I'm a good climber and love to climb (especially beyond category).

My current road bike came with 175's. I'd been on 172.5. 175 felt funny. I did ride it that way for a few thousand miles. Power didn't seem to be poor, but comfort wasn't ideal. 175 just feels like a big circle to me. I'm 5'-11 with 32 inseam.

Back on 172.5 I felt a lot better. No notice in power change, but riding in the drops easier. I'm just about to make a move to 170. I prefer to ride very low and very open. Therefore 170 makes sense. I ride 165 on the TT bike and very low.

Now...on a hill climb I tend to sit up more and use more glute. Therefore a longer crank is fine. Even 175. So if I was going to ride upright and never aero I could live with 175. That said I'm going to ride 170 on my fat bike because again 175 simply feels like a large circle to me. But that's just me.

I have never found a drawback yet to a shorter crank. I rode a 20% grade in IMWI on 165's no problem. The only potential drawback I can see if there is one would be in a road race if there's a very very sharp attack. That long lever may give you a bit of additional leverage. But does it matter?

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24 Hour World TT Champs-American record holder
Fat Bike Worlds - Race Director
Insta: chris.s.apex

IMO, real world, makes no difference. But if someone believes or feel better, go for it. I just love having one bike setup for flat or big hills. Our sport is not
about the bike, it is the finish line. :)

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Dave Campbell | Facebook | @DaveECampbell | h2ofun@h2ofun.net

Boom Nutrition code 19F4Y3 $5 off 24 pack box | Bionic Runner | PowerCranks | Velotron | Spruzzamist

Lions don't lose sleep worrying about the sheep

Sorry Dave, I meant foot velocity. Poorly communicated on my part.

Nah, I read it wrong.

This question always comes up. What is better a ford or chevy. If there was one answer, well, ....

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Dave Campbell | Facebook | @DaveECampbell | h2ofun@h2ofun.net

Boom Nutrition code 19F4Y3 $5 off 24 pack box | Bionic Runner | PowerCranks | Velotron | Spruzzamist

Lions don't lose sleep worrying about the sheep

Fwiw, I successfully run an 11-30 on the propel with a standard Sram RIval derailleur. Did an Everesting with a 38*30 without any problems. Haven't tried an 11-32 but the derailleur hanger may be a little short.

Since the OP was talking about a bike specifically for uphill TTs, all that matters is the bike split when getting to the finish line...

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"I'm thinking of a number between 1 and 10, and I don't know why!"

I've found that both my knees and hips feel a lot better going into/out of T2 after riding on shorter cranks.

I just switched power meters so I'm not sure about any power loss, though I assume there has to be some, and I don't know if the effect of this loss would be canceled out by the accompanying (potential) aero gains from a change in position, more open hip angle, etc.

I'm not swapping out the 175s on my road/climbing bike though.

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"America is all about speed. Hot, nasty, badass speed." -Eleanor Roosevelt, 1936