Let's not forget that the Ergomo Sport has been out for a while, and despite many peoples' concerns/criticism over the fact that it only measures the left leg, all "Rosetta Stone" type comparisons with SRM and Powertap indicate that these concerns/criticisms are totally unfounded.

Whoever designed that ergomo website should be shot. It doesn't even tell you how you can buy the damn thing.

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Sure it does. It says to send an e-mail to:

info@bicyclePowerMeters.com

This can be the subject of our chat tonight!

Now why don't you talk to these good people here about bearing friction...

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"Yeah, no one likes a smartass, but we all like stars" - Thom Yorke


smartasscoach.tri-oeiras.com

One of my big concerns, assuming (and that could be a big assumption) that they used, say, a Phil Wood axle & bearings, is how much friction is added by whatever seals they might need to protect the electronics? How much friction is added by the electronics themselves? I don't know that there is any. But I'd want someone to test first.

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Sorry- playing catchup on some threads this afternoon.....

Your question on BB seals, bearing quality and machining may or may not be valid (I don't know), but I don't believe there would be any friction from the electronics, as they are of the optical non-contact type. From a practical standpoint, one of the main reasons I wouldn't consider a Powertap is because of all the issues with wet weather reliability. If having a double seal on the Ergomo avoids contamination and water penetration issues I would think the added friction (probably insignificant) would be a very worthwhile trade-off.

No, the ergomo website does not tell you that is the address where you can buy it. Having a link that says contact us does not sounds like they want to sell you anything. There navigation on the website is very poor at best. The information is spotty, for example they don't tell you what types of axles are available. Nothing about dealers where you can look at the product. It doesn't tell you what improvements have been made over the old model. Nothing about how much it costs.

The product really interests me, however the website gives me absolutely no confidence to actually buy the product.

I hear you- in fact I had posted a question about this a few weeks ago myself, wondering whether this "bicyclepowermeters.com" place was trustworthy. I've exchanged several e-mails with Randy in the last couple of weeks, and I'm gradually growing more comfortable that they're on the up and up. I agree that the website is crap. I'd suggest sending them an e-mail or giving them a call to get details.

The actual product website is here, and it has far more product info:

http://www.ergomo.net/en/index.php

If you have the cash lying around or dont mind maxing out the credit card then I would buy the SRM, I think it is a better system overall and you can use any set of wheels.

Me, I didnt have the money even for an ebayed SRM so I went with the powertap as a friend of mine is a distributor and I got it for 10 bucks over cost. It was quite simple, 600 bucks versus 2500 bucks that I didnt have, so I bought the powertap.

The powertap gets the job done for training with power and I have been happy with mine, but when I win the lottery I will get the SRM.

SMCoach,

How come all these triathlete magazines advocate removing the aerobars in the off season? Are you suggesting that you should train on your race bike in the off-season? I agree with you in season, but to me it makes no sense to be riding my P3C right now.

Also, I checked out the SRM at a local shop. $3500 for the Dura Ace SRM, according to the shop owner, the DA SRM is much easier to swap between bikes, or you can just buy another DA SRM crank. $2800 for the SRM Pro. Boy, that sure is a lot of cash. What do guys think? Is the DA SRM worth it? Jens? Rappstar?

Where did I advocate what? :-)

Check this thread:



http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...i?post=612649#612649

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"Yeah, no one likes a smartass, but we all like stars" - Thom Yorke


smartasscoach.tri-oeiras.com

   

I think both SRM systems are easy to switch from bike to bike, so long as you leave a sensor (~$60) and a BB on each bike. Keep in mind that you only have to change the drive-side crank with the 9sp system.

As long as you leave the sensor & BB in place, it's a 3-5 minute operation with either the 9sp or the 10sp system. It's maybe a little easier with the DA system, since the torque requirements are much lower. The main disadvantage of the old 9sp system is that frequent swapping risks wearing the threads after a while. This is less of a risk with the 10sp DA system, since the only threads that could wear are on the non-drive side and you're torquing them a lot less.

Most of the cost is in the cranks, so I don't see any reaon to buy 2 SRM cranks -- unless you're like me, and you decide on the spur of the moment every day which bike you're going to ride.



-jens

And have a LOT of discretionary funds! ;-)

I have both SRMs and PTs. I think SRMs are worth the extra cost. If it's no powermeter or a PT, then get a PT by all means, but if you can find a way to get an SRM you won't regret it.

Joel

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JoelFilliol.com - check out the Real Coaching Podcast