Thanks guys.

Can the EW67 be connected in any configuration with the 3 nodes (RD, battery, shifter); I might connect the 2 male cables to the shifter and battery (after splicing in extension), leaving the female port for the RD?

I won this Dura Ace battery and mount, but now I'm worried that the battery mount and cable is the original DA 7970 Di2 and so not compatible with the newer etube? Am I right?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/...e=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

EDIT: after some investigating, it looks like I've got the SM-BRM1, when I actually need the SM-BRM2.

I plan on cutting the thing up anyway to fit it into the seatpost; can it be resoldered to take a 2 wire etube cable?

You will need the newer version of the extrenal mount because they include a microchip. Without the microchip it will not work with your Gen2 Di2 system.

Where did you score the shifter?

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Will do. Thanks.

eBay. Couldn't live without it!

Recently got a brand new RD-6870 for £65 and EW67 for £15.

Anyone? Would this work?

It should work. E-tube doesn't care how you connect everything together as long as you follow the other rules.

So I've now got all my parts together; before I splice into cables, can I put everything together and test the system OFF the bike, or will the RD not like being operated when not under any tension? I don't want to damage anything, or mistakenly think something's not working.

You can and should do this. I converted to Di2 last winter, and I discovered a warranty issue with one of my parts by connecting everything up off the bike. If I hadn't done that, I would've had to swap my whole drivetrain back out while I waited for a new part.

Ok, I've got it setup off the bike: Alfine R/H shifter to EW67 to RD6870 & BMR2 with BTR1.

So it's all plugged up. After a lifeless start, and a solid red light on the EW67, I managed to get the RD just flinching. After a couple of minutes of more random button pressing suddenly it came to life and it's rolling beautifully up and down throughout the range. :-) So far so good.

Now the hard bit: extend one of the cables, and cut the battery down to fit into the seat post.

Thanks for everyone's help so far.

Does anyone have any feedback on whether a standard di2 rear derailleur (in my case, it would be a Dura-Ace 9070 RD) has enough cage tension to keep the chain from hopping off the front chainring. I would be using a dedicated 1x chainring (a Rotor Qx1 narrow/wide 52T) but I know on my Sram Eagle MTB the clutch RD is there to keep a lot of chain tension on the drivetrain. The TT bike definitely won't see the same kind of forces that the MTB does, but should there be any issues in using a non-clutch RD with 1x11?

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Amateur recreational hobbyist cyclist
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When everything is new and perfectly clean and on a smooth road... maybe.

Personally, I would not go 1x without a clutch derailleur.

I also think it's absurd to put 1x on a TT bike.. but that's just me. I like hilly races though, so....

I run a SRAM Rival 11sp RD with wide/narrow SRAM 1X chainring and have never had a dropped chain. Before Fitting the wide/narrow ring, I had a regular SRAM Red chainring; the chain would drop very occasionally. As I said the chain has NEVER dropped with the wide/narrow.

A clutch RD on a 1x road bike is not necessary IMHO.

this is simply not true.

to refthimos, yes...you will be fine running a 1x chainring and a non clutch RD.

I did it with a QX1 6870 GS RD
There two holes fro spring tension in the RD set it to the stronger one.
Also with the Q ring the chain tension will slightly vary because of the ring shape.
Make sure you set the right chain length.

Meh. I <3 clutch derailleurs. For the minimal extra cost I think they are worth it.

Oval rings do not vary tension at all.
There is always 180 deg or so of chain contact and that is always half of the teeth on the ring.
The only thing that happens is that the chain will rise and fall with the changing diametre.
Sometimes this can be harmonic with the length of the chain and set up an oscillation that can throw the chain off when combined with an external force like a bump with a slight sideways component in it.

The chain tension only varies on the driven side to match the changing leg inputs throughout the pedal stroke, just like a normal round one only different.
The non driven side is a constant of the rear derailleur spring.

I've run my 1x w/6870, 9070, and now 9150 rear mech and no chain guard and have never dropped the chain (AeroCoach Arc 54 and 58t carbon as well as the 52t alu training version). Key is right chain length + proper limit adjustment. Keeping your drivetrain clean is also a big help.

Agreed with not needing a clutch RD. I am running Sram Red with a Fibre-Lyte chainring (not designed for 1x config) and have never dropped a chain. All is good as long as you set it up correctly.