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Bolt Through MTB hubs - racing
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I have just picked up a 29er with bolt through hubs. For wheel removal it needs an Allen key. For racing do people replace these for the quick release type bolt through or tape an Allen key to the bike?
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Re: Bolt Through MTB hubs - racing [boing] [ In reply to ]
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Tubeless.
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Re: Bolt Through MTB hubs - racing [boing] [ In reply to ]
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I keep a multi-tool in my flat kit.
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Re: Bolt Through MTB hubs - racing [boing] [ In reply to ]
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For both racing and training, I use this for the rear and this for the front. It's a major PIA to have to deal with an allen key for wheel removal ever
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Re: Bolt Through MTB hubs - racing [boing] [ In reply to ]
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I've run tubeless on my enduro for 3 years in the alps on sharp rocks and never flatted and thats not down to some amazing skill, they're just amazing

if I did flat id be stuffed
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Re: Bolt Through MTB hubs - racing [kileyay] [ In reply to ]
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It's a major PIA to have to deal with an allen key for wheel removal ever

We clearly have differences in opinions regarding what constitutes "Major PIA"...I would guess it takes maybe 3-5 seconds to open tool/stick in axle hole?
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Re: Bolt Through MTB hubs - racing [Andrewmc] [ In reply to ]
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Andrewmc wrote:
I've run tubeless on my enduro for 3 years in the alps on sharp rocks and never flatted and thats not down to some amazing skill, they're just amazing

if I did flat id be stuffed

THIS.

Not to jinx myself, but - I've been running tubeless for the past 2.5+ years on my Ripley, and have broken nearly everything* on the bike at least once, but have not yet gotten a fl_t.
(I run 18-22 psi rear, 17-20 front)

* Rear swingarm, Pike damper, both I9 hubs, several Sapim X-Ray spokes, crank arm, shifter, several shifter cables, cable housing, Thompson dropper post internals, R CF rim, chainring, and probably more I'm forgetting.


float , hammer , and jog

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Re: Bolt Through MTB hubs - racing [boing] [ In reply to ]
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Either take a small, lightweight multi-tool or as you suggest tape it to the bike.
Tubeless is a given these days, surely?
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Re: Bolt Through MTB hubs - racing [mtbmatt] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks - like the idea of topless wheel renal so may look into the changing the bolts. Plan to run tubeless but like to carry spare tube for those times the sealant doesn't work.
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Re: Bolt Through MTB hubs - racing [kileyay] [ In reply to ]
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kileyay wrote:
For both racing and training, I use this for the rear and this for the front. It's a major PIA to have to deal with an allen key for wheel removal ever

I use the same ones on my gravel bike. For me, it's worth it to not have to get a tool each time I have to take my wheel off (which is every time I load my bike into my car). In a race situation, an extra 10 seconds on the side of the road (or trail) could equal an extra couple minutes of chasing.
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Re: Bolt Through MTB hubs - racing [sxevegan] [ In reply to ]
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sxevegan wrote:
kileyay wrote:
For both racing and training, I use this for the rear and this for the front. It's a major PIA to have to deal with an allen key for wheel removal ever

I use the same ones on my gravel bike. For me, it's worth it to not have to get a tool each time I have to take my wheel off (which is every time I load my bike into my car). In a race situation, an extra 10 seconds on the side of the road (or trail) could equal an extra couple minutes of chasing.

Precisely
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Re: Bolt Through MTB hubs - racing [boing] [ In reply to ]
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Most are missing the point here. Tubeless does not eliminate flats. Hell, I just cut a sidewall in a tubeless setup a month ago, had to walk it out because I didn't have a tube (or pump) to repair it.

That said, an Allen key is a no-big-deal thing, right? You're already digging into a ziploc, seat bag, SWAT box or something to affect a repair; what's a few seconds for an Allen key? Put the key in a Zip bag so it doesn't get lost. In big/long races, I have black-taped a tube and air kit (in a Ziploc) to the seat rails. Allen key goes in that kit easily.
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Re: Bolt Through MTB hubs - racing [boing] [ In reply to ]
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Congrats on a new bike! New bike day is always a good day.

You have a few options...

1. Like everyone has said, just carry a tool. Also, tubeless. Run tubeless. I can affirm that the use of a tool won't dramatically change your time to change a flat and get back rolling.
2. You can always replace your axle with something that is tool-less from one of the major brands. I, working for SRAM, would point to a Maxle as an option if you feel strongly about tool-less. Just be sure your length, thread pitch, and thread length match your application.

Again, run tubeless and sealant... that is the hot ticket (and extremely proven) unless you are trying to cut a few grams for a particular course for some reason (like the olympics) and are a euro xc dude. Then run tubular XC wheels like Nino or Alban when they are being crazy weight weenies.

But, back to the point, just run tubeless and an appropriate amount of sealant and I doubt during a race you will have to worry about this concern. It doesn't eliminate flats, but it is a game changer to flat frequency compared to tubes. Game changer.


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Full disclosure: Zwift, former Zipp and SRAM Design Engineer
Last edited by: karl_a_hall: Jun 1, 16 15:02
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