I need input on gearing. I race 1/2 ironman triathlons in Texas and Ark. The terrain is most rolling hills. My top speed gears (rear smaller cogs) seem to be fine, however when I come to a relatively steep climb I feel don't I have the proper gearing. What do you all suggest? Do I change my front cog and if so, what # of teeth (I have a 2004, 9-speed Guru "Tri-lite" with factory gearing) Or do I change my rear cog, like my 1st-2nd-3rd gear? How about my crank? I need good info from those of you who ride in the south. Lets discuss options. My riding style is high cadence (85-95).
Triathlon Forum
Login required to started new threads
Login required to post replies
Re: Advice on gearing [bradpreo]
[ In reply to ]
go with a 13-27, it provides a bail-out gear for the really steep stuff. how often do you really spin in 53 x 11 anyway?
Re: Advice on gearing [bradpreo]
[ In reply to ]
depends on your fitness and course, ie how low a gear you'll need at race pace. but try a 12-25 or 13-27 rear cassette, 12-25 with a 39/53 front will get you through most courses but don't be scared to go for the 13-27 or maybe a switch to compact cranks might be in order. I personally only run 12-25 if the course has some straight up "walls" in it, usually train on a 12-25 and race a 11-23, about an hour 40k in a race
Re: Advice on gearing [bradpreo]
[ In reply to ]
I ride on the flat, spin 90-100, and average 21-23mph for a half ironman.
I roll on 53x39 up front and a 13-25 in the back. I'm not sure of the math, but I don't spin out until I'm in the mid-30's, and that's just fast enough.
My personal opinion is that most people are on way more gear than they need.
I roll on 53x39 up front and a 13-25 in the back. I'm not sure of the math, but I don't spin out until I'm in the mid-30's, and that's just fast enough.
My personal opinion is that most people are on way more gear than they need.
Re: Advice on gearing [bradpreo]
[ In reply to ]
what cassette and chain rings do you run now?
If you need more lower gears (and sounds like you probably run Shimano 9) and if you dont already run a 12-27 (or 12-28 BBB cassette which Shimano compatible) give that a go first as this is probably cheapest option before going to a compact front. If campy there is a 13-26 and 29 option
__________________________________________________
Simple Simon
Where's the Fried Chicken??
If you need more lower gears (and sounds like you probably run Shimano 9) and if you dont already run a 12-27 (or 12-28 BBB cassette which Shimano compatible) give that a go first as this is probably cheapest option before going to a compact front. If campy there is a 13-26 and 29 option
__________________________________________________
Simple Simon
Where's the Fried Chicken??
Re: Advice on gearing [bradpreo]
[ In reply to ]
If you do a lot of group riding this won't help, but if you ride by yourself I would recommend going to a smaller chainring combo. I have ridden 46/36 (110mm) before and also 48/38 (130mm). Frankly, most people don't need a 50 or bigger chainring unless they ride with other people because either:
1) They can't push 53 x anything on the flats at a decent rpm or
2) They use the big ring to go really fast on the downhills which is a waste of energy (observed from riding with a power meter).
A ten-tooth jump will give you a nice quick shift and the 36 or 38 will combine with a 23 or 25 to give you a relatively decent low gear. If the hill are really steap or long then try a 48/34 with the 25.
Chad
1) They can't push 53 x anything on the flats at a decent rpm or
2) They use the big ring to go really fast on the downhills which is a waste of energy (observed from riding with a power meter).
A ten-tooth jump will give you a nice quick shift and the 36 or 38 will combine with a 23 or 25 to give you a relatively decent low gear. If the hill are really steap or long then try a 48/34 with the 25.
Chad
It really depends on the course. And changing cassettes is more typical (and a lot easier) than doing chainrings. I run the standard 53/39 up front (700c wheels) and an 11-23 out back for most cases. If it's a hillier course I'd do a 12-25. Gearing also depends on your pedaling style and strength. If you're a spinner, you'll need lower gears than if you mash. I typically TT at about 100 cadence, so I'd obviously not need as high of gears at the same speed as someone doing an 85 cadence. I have only spun out my 53x11 on two occasions, and neither was during a race. It is better to err on the conservative side- if you happen to spin out your highest gear, just consider that your time to rest for the run. A couple weeks ago at the Eagle Creek Sprint Tri, the highest gear I needed was my 53x12 on a downhill section. I was kind of suprised- It is rare that I get so close to my 53x11. I did get the fastest bike split of the day, though (not trying to brag- but your strength/speed plays into your gearing... a BOP rider won't need near the gears of a FOP rider).