climbing on clinchers - you killing all our enthusiasm to write about that :-)
go tubular!!
OK I'll say something, but I will not enjoy it (((-:
Look for full carbon clinchers: Reynolds, Corima.. (but that may cost:(
New Campy SHAMAL is best of the clincher alu - 1395 g. I didn't try it but it's a Campagnolo! I'm sure quality and everything else is great

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Hare Krishna

dont waste your time with Clinchers... get some 202's

i have american classic sprint 350's and love em. i dont know if you can get the campy body, but you could always get one of those funky cassettes that fit campy spacing on a shimano hub.

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i prefer the Easton over the Kysrium's. have both, but noticed a big difference with the Easton's. they get my vote!!! they're light and that's what it's all about. plus they're affordable and the winds won't screw you. (there's always wind, right!)

also, i bought them to race, but put them on and never took them off! very high quality wheels. ;)

haven't denied the option on switching to tubulars after all these are BIG CLIMBS... just want to see whats up in with the clinchers..

thx

Stick with aluminum if you want to go clincher and want light.

I would look into:

Real Design has some lightweights that can be had cheap.

Custom wheels can generally be had for under $500 and under 1400 grams.

did a couple of hill climbs on my 202's last year and will be doing more this summer (Mt Washington among them)

Seriously... clincher vs tubular debates can rage all day long when it comes to discs, 404's etc... but if you're looking for light and stiff climbing wheels - tubular is the way to go. For my $$$ the 202's are the best of the bunch.

I'm with bpq - if going with dedicated climbing only wheels, can get any better than some 202s with a high quality tubie like a Veloflex Record. Serious polkadot bling :)

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Fatigue is biochemical, not biomechanical.
- Andrew Coggan, PhD

202 tubbies with some nice Corsa EVO CX's or maybe Chrono EVO CS' if you really want to go lightweight.

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will light wheels do? or do they absolutely need to be climbing wheels?

i'm starting to see the difference with added research... the tubulars are w/o a doubt lighter and just require a little more learning to get used to setting up. how bout the quality of the zipp 202's? i've heard abnormally higher rates of returns with zipp wheels in general. thx

well, aren't they both in the same realm? please explain. i'm not understanding.. at this point is seems like there is clear difference between getting tubulars over clincher for climbing because of weight..

hey khai, how about puncture protection in the EVO cx's or cs's? what is the better all round?

Here's a shortish explanation:

-Tubs are usually lighter than clinchers;
-Tubs run higher pressures than clinchers;
-Higher pressure means stiffer / lower rolling resistance;
-A good tub (particularly ones w/ silk or Igyptian cotton casings) have more flexiple casing than a clincher, which also equates to lower rolling resistance;

All of this equates to a sensation that all tub users know v/ well: the feel of race wheels. If you're like me, & train on clinchers, when you take out yr race wheels, you can "feel" the tarmac much better. The tyres seem to pick up every wrinkle on the road, and you feel the total stiffness of the tub/race wheel combo. It makes my mouth water...

Other tub benefits:
-If you flat in a race, you can just rip off the tub & replace it (provided yr spares have been prepped w/ tub tape) & not worry about checking the clincher tyre for sharp objects or the like...

However:
If you're a miser like me and go into fixing flat tubs... Now that's a task that I hate!

I am 6' 165 - 170# and like most high end wheels I only use them for a handful of races and not as everyday wheels. I did half a dozen hill climbs on them last summer, a couple of crits, and one or two training rides, so all in all they have somewhere between 400-700 (hard!) miles on them.

I have had zero problems and absolutely no complaints. They have been bombproof on rough surfaces, stiff on the climbs, and I never had a shimmy or any problem braking on 50+ mph decents.

All that being said... they are EXTREMELY lightweight and are not an everyday wheel. If you are looking to use them as you would Ksyriums or Eastons (every day training/racing wheels)... I have no idea how they would fare, but I can imagine some weightweenies (especially the porky ones) having problems if they try that. But that is comparing apples to oranges.

I use Schwlabe tires on them.

well, the zipps are double the price of Easton. just depends on how much you want to spend!

The Chrono CS is a 170g TT tyre. Not exactly the most robust thing out there, as it's designed to be super light and fast.
The Corsa CX is a race tyre as well, but is much tougher (and a little heavier) than the Chrono.

Unless you're gearing up for a hillclimb smackdown, I'd run the Corsa CX. It's a damn good tyre and the extra puncture resistance/longevity is worth the additional 100 grams to me.

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<If you're gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough>
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I think not only lightweight that matters. I don't trust Zipp hubs (so I heard some proTeams). There is Reynolds and Bontrager at same weight, Australian X-Treme even lighter.. never try any of it (exept Zipp, and Reynolds DV - they where good), should say

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Hare Krishna

I'm not sure why the Bontrager wheels don't get much love around here, but they are excellent. You can usually find them on e-bay for a steal. Have a look at these: http://www.bontrager.com/...orks/Wheels/5884.php

hey Tufo v Evo CX update, Linda raced on the Evo, she tells me the difference is light and day. Vittorias every time. Campione has them for 89$ and 10$ per pair for mounting (bargain considering I dont have to do it!)

BTw she knocked off 1min 30seconds from last years time, not sure how much it had to do with the tires or placebo effect but over 23km that is a lot of time

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Simple Simon
Where's the Fried Chicken??

Mavic Open Pro's on Campy Record hubs laced with DT Revolutions and alloy nipples are as light as anything you've mentioned so far. Go 28 hole front and 28 or 32 hole rear, dep on your weight,

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Lightweight Ventoux: http://www.carbonsports.com/LW_Ventoux.lasso only 950g!

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LLLEEEEEEEEEEEERRRROOOYYY JEEENNNNNKKKIIINNNNNS!!!

what big mountains are you using them on? big to some is small to others and vice versa.

Not necessarily climbing wheels, but an example of the deal you can get on Bontrager on E-Bay. Not a single bid so far. The seller didn't help themselves by misspelling bontrager...

http://cgi.ebay.com/...QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


This is NOT my auction.

some climbs north of casale monferrato italy (alps). also some of the forever long climbs around sicily just outside of palermo..

How about these? http://cgi.ebay.com/...QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

rebuild with DT revos and your favorite super lightweight hubs.

Ed

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LLLEEEEEEEEEEEERRRROOOYYY JEEENNNNNKKKIIINNNNNS!!!

Will you be using them for solo hill climbing, or are we talking hilly road races? I myself was tempted by 202's, but the local shop said that I shouldn't buy anything I can't afford to replace. Seemed to me that he was hinting about the fact that superlight wheels like 202's won't fare too well in a good pileup. I didn't want to have to lay out close to a grand for a single wheel, if I needed a replacement. I currently race on Ksyrium SL clinchers and they're great. I've already had someone take me out in a crit and they were still true when I came out of it. I imagine the ES's are similar. In fact, I went with the SLs because I couldn't justify such a small drop in weight for such a significant jump in price.

I do, however, wish I could afford to replace wheels like 202's, because I would totally have them in that case....

and the price of these lovely heinz obermayer works of art? these would do the trick i'm sure... but at a higher than budget allows price

put an american classic hub up front and shave even more weight. my favorite climbing front wheel till it was stolen.

American Classic Mag's
http://www.amclassic.com/magnesium_clincher.html clincher 1185gm 1299.95

http://www.amclassic.com/magnesium_tubular.html tubular 1145gm same price!

http://www.amclassic.com/price_sheet.html

thats light!
Dan...

I have that wheel set - my Neutrons are lighter.

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What if the Hokey Pokey is what it is all about?

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Fatigue is biochemical, not biomechanical.
- Andrew Coggan, PhD

what the bank account are you using? "doesn't blow" to some is nothing to others and vice versa : )))

I'm sure most of us thought about Lightweight, but we didn't say it

Aeolus is definitely not a climbing ones, American Classic mag. is very impressive, especially what they could do for clinchers.
I personally ordered last week X-Treme (http://x-tremecycling.com/...oductID=matrix_elite) Campy, I think deeper rim would add stiffness, which is important too. They retail cheaper then Zipp 303 by 200$ (around 1500$) and I got deal for 1100$ (buying 20 peaces with LBS)

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Hare Krishna

You'd be hard pressed to find a wheelset of better quality than the Mavic Ksyrium. It is a great all around wheel. You cannot beat Mavic's hub quality, durability, and performance per dollar. These are some tough wheels. The Ksyrium SL's are excellent wheels as well, and may save you some money.

The new Campag Neutron is great, as well as the Fulcrum Racing 1, though I think both of these wheelsets are overpriced when compared to the Ksyriums.

If you are looking for something that will give you some aerodynamics while retaining lightweight, Rolf Vigors are pretty decent.

Personally I would go for the Ksyriums.

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"Hey man hey man... your mom still make that Thai food?"

Mavic Open Pro's on Campy Record hubs laced with DT Revolutions and alloy nipples are as light as anything you've mentioned so far. Go 28 hole front and 28 or 32 hole rear, dep on your weight,

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What? Zipp 202s (not the Z2s) are 1020 g for the entire wheelset. A single Mavic Open Pro RIM alone is 425g. Mind you, I love your suggestion for a wheelset - very nice. But nowhere near a lightweight climbing only wheelset.

I was referencing the original list of clincher wheelsets, all upwards of 1400 g. The build mentioned above should be lighter than any of them. 202's are fine, but as a climbing only wheelset a set of 303 tubs is probably the best overall choice. Almost as light as the 202's, but a bit of aero to go along with the low weight.

Personally, I'd rather have something with an aluminium braking surface. If you do lots of climbing, then you also need to do lots of descending.

If you want pure pjorn, some of the old school guys can mention a few really sweet setups. My favourite light wheels were my old Mavic Heliums (tubulars). I wish I hadn't sold those. Or if you aren't too heavy, and know a really good wheelbuilder, and aren't planning on riding downhill, then a set of NOS Mavic GEL280 or the superlight Fiamme rims, built on a superlight hubset and either Ti or DT Revo spokes (radial front, radial/2x rear) would be really sweet.

Find a set of CLB brake calipers (preferably infused with drillium), a Modolo carbon downtube shifter for the front derailleur, remove the guts of your left STI/Ergo lever, and you will be well on your way to weight weeniedom.

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Probably someone mention them here before but if you need climbing wheels CarbonSports' Lightweight is the way to go.
Check them out here: http://www.carbonsports.de/. Ullrich was the most famous riding them on the Tour.

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