You mean like these pictures? I've built up a few bikes with DI2 for customers and can answer specific questions that you might have. There are more pictures in the photo gallery on our website of bikes with DI2. Two of them are internally routed with the R3 done externally.




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-Darrell

damn shit! I thought one of the key benefits was "less cables"

Well you have cables for the shifters, brakes and then the extra set of cables for the shifters on the brake levers. It looks much cleaner when we've put them inside the basebar but this customer didn't want me to do any extra work (drilling) to the basebar. Some basebars are easier to work with than others.

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-Darrell

How does the cable run from battery to the controllers?

The cable to the battery runs inside the downtube, exiting just behind the head tube. That one is internal along with the cable to the front derailleur. The rear der. cable is external.

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-Darrell

Thanks for posting Darrell - just to confirm you need to drill one hole behind the headtube for the battery cable and the enlarge the hole for the front mech / rear mech cable on the down tube ? The wire to the rear mech come out under the BB and runs like a standard wire to the rear mech. ( unless I guess you drill another hole by the drop outs ?)

I was going to run just the bar end shifters for now as my "old" hed bars won't accomodate the base bar shifters - can you see any issues with doing that ? ( I'm not sure the front cables come all attached to run both changing positions ?)
cheers again.
Neil.

Which set of cables are you using? The internal or external kit? The difference will be the size of the connectors.

If you're using the external kit I wouldn't recommend running it internally at all as you will need to make pretty large holes in order to get them through the frame. The internal wiring kit has cables that are a little longer and will connect to a junction piece.

You're correct with the drilling other than that. Drill behind the head tube and expand the area around the BB for the front der. For the rear der. I would run it externally as the hole at the drive side dropout is closest to the cassette and thus not conducive to running the wiring internally.

On the P4 and S3 the hole is towards the outside of the frame which makes it much easier to run the rear der. wiring inside the chainstay.

Let me know if you have other questions.

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-Darrell

Understood ( I think ) many thanks for your help
Neil.

Hi Darrell,

Thanks for sharing all your builds.

Just a few questions re drilling. It appears from the pictures on your website that more drilling is required....

Starting at the front end:
Drill just behind head tube to insert __________ cable? (What cable goes in there, is it just the battery)

Drill in between bottle mounts for the battery cable to come out of the frame?

There is then a cable coming from the battery down on the left hand side of the bike - where does it go, is there any drilling required there?

The photo of the bottom of the bike is all blury so can't see what occurs underneath the bottom bracket.

There must be a point where the rear der and front der cables juncture with the battery cable? Where does that happen?

I wonder if you could basically describe what happens from the hole just behind the head tube and back from that point.

(also have you seen the new Shimano PRO Missile EVO bars and stem, that should be good for cleaning up routing of the front end cables etc.)

Thanks again, sorry for all the pestery questions, but considering doing something like this myself and can't find anyone else apart from you that's done it. Even the distributor here couldn't provide any assistance.

Cheers.

Do you actually have all the wiring already or are you just asking preliminary questions? If you at least look at the wires and the manual you will see where the wires from the derailleurs connect to the battery. There are junction points that get sealed to make them water tight.

Look at the pictures of the S3 as it is the cleaner build of the two. The P3 was routed internally with an external harness as that is what the customer supplied. Using an internal harness like on the S3 is a better setup but not appropriate for all setups. Again, please look at the wiring and the manuals for them so that I can answer your specific questions on what you need to do, some of your questions will be answered by looking at the harnesses. It makes a lot more sense if you can look at the harness while you read my response so you know exactly what I'm talking about.

Unfortunately I can't take additional pictures for you as the customers have picked up their bikes and are out enjoying them.

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-Darrell

Thanks mate,

No, I don't have the frame or the Di2. Don't want to buy yet until I'm sure it will work well.

This is one plan we're considering:

P3 frame

Shimano PRO Missile EVO bars and associated stem - this should clean up cabling in that area

Di2 - from your description it sounds as though there are different options and configerations -
what do you suggest I order for internal and as clean as possible?

I'll do some more research on Shimano's website and see if I can make sense of the tech docs etc.

If ya reckon it works well - I'll pass your suggestions of what exactly to purchase in terms of Di2 kit components to make it work the best.

Thanks a lot for taking the time to share, really appreciate it.

[EDIT TO ADD
Just got off the phone with Shimano and they reckon don't go internal on a frame that isn't designed for it. The reckon go totally external and cover cables with especially made housing that sticks to the frame and is available in three colours.]

You can do internal, it will be fine although drilling holes in the frame technically voids Cervelo's warranty. The internal routing on a P3 is actually pretty easy to do as the frame naturally has some of the holes you need to use. With the internal harness you don't even need to expand them much at all. If you end up buying the internal harness and need advice on installation let me know.

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-Darrell

Darrell - I'm 90% of the way through ... ( he last 10% is the hard bit as I'm finding ! )
Holes are drilled, cables ran but I cant get the battery placed on the down tube - my P3C is a 51 so a little shorter that the one in the photo but with a short size battery mount I can't seem to line it up with the drink bottle holes - did I get the wrong cables ? I ordered EW 7972 - Internal / external and also have the battery mount adapter but that doesn't help ? I'm wondering if a need the EW 7975 longer base unit which I think is available as a spare.
The link below helps with the codes ?
http://www.shimano.com/...t%20Instructions.pdf
Thanks for your help
Neil

The 7972 harness might be a little short, the medium would be better. The internal harness worked well as it was longer and gave me a greater margin of error. . I'm pretty sure that I used the long mount as the short one wouldn't work.

The battery mount should be able to fit on the frame as the distance from the point just above the BB to the lowest water bottle cage bolt is the same on a 51 and 56 P3, I just measured. If it doesn't you could always just use one of the bottle cage bolts and a couple of zip ties to secure it to the frame.

HTH, let me know if you need more help.

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-Darrell

where do you a purchase a external battery mount that holds a water bottle cage like the one in the second picture?
Thank you. Do you know the part #

google "di2 water bottle" it's a pretty cheap part.