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Re: Hawaii files first..... [veganerd] [ In reply to ]
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My surf coach told rule number one is respect the locals. The other thing is spots like pipeline are not good very often. People who live there are waiting for it to get good. So they wait for weeks it gets good and someone pops off a plane and wants to take a wave. They don't like that. If you are nice though you usually can get some waves. Take off on the first smaller wave of a set and leave the really good ones to the locals. Ask first.

veganerd wrote:
Duffy wrote:
veganerd wrote:
Duffy wrote:
CruseVegas wrote:
Duffy wrote:
Going to North Shore next Feb (tentatively) to train at Sunset Beach BJJ and hopefully those guys will let me get a couple waves at Pipe.

I'm staying with one of the heavys so chances are decent.


The culture on Oahu is a lot different than on the Big Island for Haole or tourists, BI a lot more welcoming.


Yes. I know.

Fortunately I'm friends with a couple of the Pipe enforcers. Doesn't mean I can surf Pipe on a glassy 8-10 foot day when the sun is shining but I will certainly have doors open when I go (as long as I mind my Ps and Qs).


this is the stupidest part of surfing culture. people thinking they own the waves.


The way things are done at Pipline actually makes sense. Dangerous wave, small take off zone, super crowded.

There needs to be order and the most effective way to make that place as safe as possible is to have a pecking order and enforce it vigorously. Sometimes violence is necessary.

There are very few surfs spots where this type of "localism" is necessary. Pipeline is one of them.

A place I surf on the Central Coast is another but not exactly for the same reasons.


i disagree that people need to be dicks. localism doesnt seem to be about keeping people safe, its apparebtly about being entitled assholes. from what i understand, even pros are sometimes victims. am i to understand a pro needs to have their ass kicked for their own safety?

They constantly try to escape from the darkness outside and within
Dreaming of systems so perfect that no one will need to be good T.S. Eliot

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