Hooked rear disc wheel

To bring the discussion back to the original question - any views on Princeton and Artech disc wheels? The first is expensive and relatively well known, the latter is also expensive but largely unknown.

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That is bad that the HED website has two different max PSI for the same wheel. If you access via ā€œexploring the Vanquish Pro Seriesā€ and choosing the disc it shows the 70 psi max reported by @Duncan74. If you choose via shopping disc wheels and choose the Vanquish Pro it shows the 75 max psi reported by @E_DUB.

Additionally, in the Help me choose the best disc wheel thread it was reported by @easyryder that his LBS called HED and ā€œHED confirmed running 80-90 lbs would be no problemā€.

For me going over 70 psi would be if I ever raced on course that was classified as ā€œnewā€ per the Silca calculator, but then only need 73.5 psi. As a Vanquish Pro disc owner I would like to know the real answer.

@E_DUB surely Slowtwitch can get an official stance from HED and at the same time alert them of the conflicting details on their website.

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I have the Vanquish Pro 62/84 on my bike, both stickers show max psi of 70 (for a 25mm tire). I also have the Vanquish Disc but must have taken the sticker off. I’ll assume it’s also a max of 70 psi since HED just bonds a cover to the 62mm carbon rim.

I agree with you that it’s A LOT to look at and learn that’s for sure…

It’s getting better though and will continue to do so.

Assuming the person wants to ride Hookless.

One of the three moved over to hooked, so yes, it’s getting better

Two to go

:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:

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I found the sticker on my Vanquish Pro disc, 70 max psi for 25 and 67 max psi for 28. I didn’t recall having a sticker (its not the orange warning type that I most certainly removed if it was that), most likely since at the time of purchase I was planning on using the HED table which has me at 62 psi (below the 67 max for 28s) and promptly forgot about it until now, after switching to the Silca calculator as my guide.

Why the different maximums for different sizes, I suspect it has to do with the greater volume. Any engineer types want to get me up to speed on the physics.

It seems like it would be pretty difficult to read the (several) threads on this topic on this site and think this is actually the case.
If anything, the fact that this is an issue and can’t be ignored has just recently become evident to manufacturers, and that is more confusing for most consumers, who maybe now know that there are potential problems, but have no easy way to identify them, far less rectify them. (Hooked? Hookless? What’s a bead hook? Which are my wheels? Uhh… carbon?)
Hell, I just - literally five minutes ago - finished a bike fit for someone who rolled in a bike with a set of Zipps with tires that are ā€œtoo smallā€. This was a very (relatively) sophisticated customer… running aftermarket tire liners, high volume valvestems, installed these himself, no sweat.
He had no idea at all that this tire size thing was a problem, and never would have known. He was about to buy another set of too-small tires, and there wasn’t a damn thing out there warning him about this. The LBS sure didn’t.
Once you get off Escape Collective Island and the ST archipelago, folks just still have no clue about any of this stuff.

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SRAM / Zipp have an entire page dedicated to tire compatibility with their wheels.

If the LBS didn’t know about that, they should.

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Casing tension increases in more or less direct proportion to tire size increase at any given inflation pressure.

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There’s an entire world that exists between ā€œshouldā€ and ā€œactually doā€. And in this case, why would a customer have any reason to buy anything other than a direct replacement for the tire that came on their bike? Is it now the LBS’s responsibility to hold a tubeless compatibility intervention for everyone that walks in to buy a set of tires? How much time is that going to take? How many customers are going to simply get frustrated, walk away, and buy an exact replacement online anyway?
It’s. A. Mess.

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The limit for hookless systems is 72psi. As far as I am concerned, this is quite simple and clear. This system is not for me.

What is much less clear (to me) is why HED has similar limitations on its hooked wheels while other hooked wheels normally work with higher pressures. I find it very unlikely that they would introduce such a crippling limitation (for some riders) only out of an abundance of caution.

Looks like this discussion decided to go into a different direction… :slightly_smiling_face:

What are your primary criterias? Price? Performance ? Weight ? Woomp-woomp?

What are your primary criterias? Price? Performance ? Weight ? Woomp-woomp?
[/quote]

Performance, weight within around 1100g is good enough, a reputable brand is a plus, woomp-woomp is a plus.

Side issue is that with ā€˜old school’ (inner tubed), tubeless and hookless tyres, in 21, 23, 15, 28, 30, 32s you can’t really count on the LBS now stocking tyres, so I’ve had to stop trying to buy from my LBSs. And whilst as mentioned above, we live in this world, even good bike shops serve a really diverse clientele of which pointy end triathletes (and roadies) are a minority.
Holding stock of the range of hookless and tubeless (hooked) tyres that nowadays cost more than car tyres is just not viable, and so I don’t think it’s fair that LBS should be responsible for this, especially as they may not actually sell hookless.
And even if they did, as per the HED website, how the heck should a mechanic be expected to memorise all this for every manufacturer when those manufacturers are now putting all manner of confusing/confounding info out there - micro hooks, multiple max pressures, ā€˜recommended pressure’, tested to xxx psi…

Back to OP. Again I say Caden…

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I’m starting to plan my next tri bike purchase, and a set of hooked wheels will be on the list. I absolutely love Princeton, but they are stupidly expensive. I do love the look.

The others on my list, but may not be compatible with your timeline, are ENVE’s coming-soon micro-hooked wheels they made for Team UAE and the TdF.

Probably for the exact reason we’re seeing on this thread: avoiding confusion.

And ā€œcripplingā€? A couple watts is more like a nuisance.

they are pretty close to launching

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Haven’t tried the other options, but I’m quite satisfied with the Parcours one. Sound is great, tires installed very easily by hand, feels as fast as you could expect from a disc.

Cons : that’s still a shitload of money for a wheel, and its not that light. Not the best looking either I’d say.

Neutral : the HUB is the loudest thing everyone has ever heard. I’ve been biking for a lot of years, and friends who have done the same confirmed it : its too loud. I mean, rolling in the house when I’m finished riding is just a massive pain in the ears, can’t get out quietly in the morning, everone just jumps scared (Yes, I always ride the disc wheel, given the price no way I’m only riding it in races)

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[quote=ā€œspudone, post:59, topic:1291488ā€]
Probably for the exact reason we’re seeing on this thread: avoiding confusion.

Confusion on this thread is driven by refusal to acknowledge that all hookless systems are limited at 72psi. HED are hooked, so not sure how introducing artificial limitations would avoid confusion.