I’ve tried bikedoctor. Tried some others. It just crazy how difficult it is to get any clear answers. For example, Kestrel’s website says that Oval 950F wheels are speced on the bike i’m looking at, but there is no information to be found anywhere regarding 950 wheels. Oval’s website doesn’t show them, Kestrel’s website doesn’t expound on them. ASI owns both – I’ve emailed all three with no response. Bike doctor only answers the phone in the morning. Many of the local dealers listed on Kestrel website no longer sell Kestrels, and those few that do don’t stock them. It shouldn’t be so hard to buy an expensive bike. If Kestrel wants to be mail order than be mail order. If they want to sell in shops then sell in shops. Right now it seems they are in no-man’s land.
I don’t think the 4000 should be considered an expensive bike anymore. It’s a very good bike. I think you are giving away very little to even the newest, more expensive bikes but it has been around for a while now. I think of it in the bargain category.
I know you can spend much more, but in my frame of reference, a five thousand dollar bicycle is an expensive bicycle.
I’ve been having an issue with my rear wheel ‘diving’ into my brakes with heavy effort on hills and completely jamming to a halt. I’ve already replaced the adjustable rear dropout with the newer rigid one on the Kestrel, but I still have a problem.
LBS is going to lock-tight them this time. Any other ideas?
Kestrel 4000 Pro SL
Hello all – I’m a huge Kestrel fan for no particular reason, other than my KM 40 airfoil was the bike that got me back into cycling/triathlon. So I have an emotional attachment to the brand.
i’m selling this 4000 w/ SRAM Red for $1599: https://www.facebook.com/gregkaplan/media_set?set=a.10206161941984963.1156164937&type=3
I’ll cover shipping in CONUS.
So I am curious to know the posters’ opinions, I started doing tris back when the original 4000 came to market (ie Lance and Mark Allen’s “Schwinn” masked 4000). I still race a 2002 KM40 Airfoil as well… Anyway, there is an 88 4000 complete in my area and the asking price is $500. Based on his emails and pics there is zero evidence of damage, stress cracks (particularly around the seat post), all Dura-Ace components.
Am I nuts to consider a 1988 carbon fiber bike for a potential rider? I dig the nostalgia of it but I already have the KM40.
Thanks in advance for the feedback…
So I am curious to know the posters’ opinions, I started doing tris back when the original 4000 came to market (ie Lance and Mark Allen’s “Schwinn” masked 4000). I still race a 2002 KM40 Airfoil as well… Anyway, there is an 88 4000 complete in my area and the asking price is $500. Based on his emails and pics there is zero evidence of damage, stress cracks (particularly around the seat post), all Dura-Ace components.
Am I nuts to consider a 1988 carbon fiber bike for a potential rider? I dig the nostalgia of it but I already have the KM40.
Thanks in advance for the feedback…
You aren’t nuts, well-made composites last a long time.
But are you looking for a fast bike, or just a cool nostalgic bike?
More on the cool nostalgic side - I already have a full time training and racing bike so his would be more of an occasional rider.
Then I would say, if the price is right and if you inspect the frame very very thoroughly, go for it.
And you’ll own a bit of composite cycling history.
I am considering buying a 2015 or 2016 Kestrel 4000, too. Has anyone gone for a 105 version (http://www.kestrelbicycles.com/archive/2015/4000-shimano-1052) and done incremental upgrades? What priority/order for upgrading components - other than racing wheels - would you suggest? Would love to hear some opinions/experience!
I’ve had a 105 model for three years. It’s pictured on page 2 of this thread. I upgraded the base bar, wheels and chainrings. There is no need to upgrade any of the mechanical components. They are holding up just fine.
How big of a deal is the ‘rear wheel issue’ on newer (2015+) models? During training I’ll likely do quite a a few hills before reaching more flat roads, and also my first full Ironman distance event will not be super flat.
If you mean the rear wheel slipping, it’s not an issue if you set the drop-outs where you want them, grease the bolts and then set them to the torque spec with a torque wrench. I set them to where the rear wheel came out easiest. To make the rear wheel go in and out easiest, pull the skewer completely out
Anyone have a good rear tool storage option for a 4000 ltd 2015 model? Something like the trek draft box etc. ?
hey guys, I just came across this thread - hoping its still active.
Anyway, I’m putting together a 4000 Pro SL, 59.5, and I need a fork. Does anyone have one laying around they’d sell me?
thx, Nathan
Hi,
Can anyone tell me the maximum saddle height (bottom bracket to saddle profile) than can be achieved on 50cm Kestrel 4000 frame. Another option might be what is the maximum seat post extension (I am guessing same for all models) and I can work out saddle height from the seat post extension.
Thanks
Does anybody had luck with some drive trainer? I bought my bike yesterday and now I’m looking for some trainer to start with zwift during this shelter in home time.
Sorry if did something wring this my 1st post.
There were new drop outs produced.
I was the designer of that Kestrel. First edition the drop outs slipped. We then created V2 that were knurled.
Try calling Fuji (BikeCo) and see if they have any available.
