I’m placing an order for the new Drag2Zero .66 System. They have a 5 mm trek adapter that mounts on top of the tower base and then the D2Z base plate mounts on top on that. Seem’s pretty well integrated.
https://drag2zero.co.uk/...o-66/?v=7516fd43adaa
Not a comment directed towards you, but these prices for extensions are crazy. Not even a basebar and extensions, just the extensions are over $1k.
I looked at that too. you can use the 5mm spacer, mount their base and use there spacers as another option from the looks of it. Then you don’t have funky base halfway up the tower.
Yeah the pics above are just what they sent to me of how it works. I plane to use the 0 mm trek tower base so the d2z base is as close to the base bar as possible.
That looks great, please post pics once you get it.
I had the original D2Z bars but never loved it. The pic on their site is actually mine. I then tried the Aerocoach bars but didn’t like those either and sent them back. I have a small fortune invested in extensions now and am going back to the stock setup until something better comes along!
Hello everybody, i would like to ask your advise as follor, as on gen 3 speed concept is not possible to install bontrager duo trap, what kind of cadence sensor do you use and how do you install it, if you have some pictures i really appreciate it.
Thanks in advance for your support inthis matter
Cadence sensor for most on a bike like this would be via a powermeter. Garmin do a magnetless cadence sensor that would work.
Ok, so after many many months my bike has finally arrived in the workshop, but sadly the mechanic buildign it thinks there’s an issue. I got them to order a GXP BB to fit a T47 frame, which they did, so that I can get them to install my quarq dfour. The mechanic is saying that the frame BB is too wide for the length of the Quarq spindle.
Now I am dubious about this, and have suggested there is a need for him to double check, but he was adamant (whilst still agreeing to check).
Has anyone any insight into this? Apparently the BB came with 3 spacer tubes, short, medium and long. The short was too short for the frame, the medium fits the frame but then is too long for the BB. I do wonder if the issue is around the fit of the tube on the counter vs in the frame, but wantign to check if there are issues/experience with this. From my 10 minute google teh general feel is that the Trek frames are 85.5 which is slightly narrower than spec and uses a wider washer.
Did you get the internal T47 GXP BB? if not the external style could be too wide for the crank.
Yep, 99% sure that’s what’s happened, the lbs ordered an external bb, not the internal one. In fairness I don’t think any of the NZ distributors carry the t47 internal for gxp. So they didn’t explicitly select the wrong one.
So looks like it may be a couple more weeks whilst I wait for a wheels manufacturing one to come. I just can’t justify the ceramic speed or Chris King ones at 4 to 8 times the cost.
I had some issues with the bb when trying to run a Cobb crank instead of the Sram Rival cranks that came stock. I ordered a Wheels Manufacturing bb that was supposed to be compatible but to make it work the cranks were not centered. I ended up getting one from a brand called Seido and it works perfectly
Finally, New Bike Day arrived. Many many thanks to the people that have helped between initial thinking/questions about a year ago, in the lead up to ordering in October then the last weeks as the shop struggled with a few niggles.
Initial test ride and mostly good, handles, rides well.
Few things to sort:
Finally, New Bike Day arrived.
Congratulations, looks fantastic. Enjoy the ride!
Here’s my wife’s new one.
(I’m holding on to my 2nd gen’s for a while longer. They just feel right under my butt.)
Hi guys probably some silly questions. Losing my marbles with the new speed concept.
Getting it ready for the first road race tomorrow.
1-I have a shimano Ron Aeron x disc. (This was originally on a 11speed canyon speedmax) I’ve replaced the cassette with a 12 speed ultegra cassette but for some reason the Bontrager skewer is not grabbing the thread when I’m trying to put the disc on the bike. I can see the part of the hub that connects to the frame where the thread is semi - circular and the Bontrager is circular. I am assuming this is not compatible as it was 11 speed or something else?
2-I have attached an image below of the tri pads. There are 2 screws - am I right to assume there should be 4 as there is a good bit of movement on the pads?
3-the front wheel skewer no matter how I try to engage the thread it ends up in the most un-aero position. Is this normal or what am I doing wrong?
Not seeing any of your pics. try using imagr or something to post.
Duncan-looks nice. Can you post more pics of the aero cockpit set up. I am curious what your set up looks like.
Thanks
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Sorry just re added there
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Hi guys probably some silly questions. Losing my marbles with the new speed concept.
Getting it ready for the first road race tomorrow.
1-I have a shimano Ron Aeron x disc. (This was originally on a 11speed canyon speedmax) I’ve replaced the cassette with a 12 speed ultegra cassette but for some reason the Bontrager skewer is not grabbing the thread when I’m trying to put the disc on the bike. I can see the part of the hub that connects to the frame where the thread is semi - circular and the Bontrager is circular. I am assuming this is not compatible as it was 11 speed or something else?
2-I have attached an image below of the tri pads. There are 2 screws - am I right to assume there should be 4 as there is a good bit of movement on the pads?
3-the front wheel skewer no matter how I try to engage the thread it ends up in the most un-aero position. Is this normal or what am I doing wrong?
#1 Pictures of this disc online does not show the hub interface to be oval… If your hub ending on this disc are really oval, maybe post pics?
Several people here complain that sometimes it is hard to align the back skewer. I’ve had this issue too sometimes. I think it is related to the design of the derailleur hanger. It can shift a bit, setting holes slightly off-center and making it hard to re-insert the skewer. Try to wiggle the wheel so this end goes a bit forward and back as you try to push the skewer.
You could also loosen the 2 DH screws a bit to allow for alignment, then re tighten once assembly is completed. But they are VERY small screws and the hex holes are easy to strip… better avoid touching them it if you can. I had to drill one out after I’ve had the bike for only a couple of weeks, pretty nerve racking.
#2 Service manual shows only 2 screws in use to hold the elbow pads. I recommend downloading the service manual from the Trek website - lots of good information to have there including part numbers, would you ever need anything.
#3: Be prepared to be mind blown… wiggle the handle while pulling out… it frees itself from the skewer. You can use the one tool for either wheel. You can remove it completely for racing (if you have a tool in your kit to open the skewer in case of a flat) or put it back in a more aero position (on the back skewer?)