Mostly answered above, but…
- Just checking you are using the skewer with the SC frame, not the one from the old bike - although similar looking could be different threads. And that would be bad. My Synapse road bike needs a little pressure into the skewer to get it to ‘bite’.
- Looks the same, 2 bolts, not 4. Service manual here shows it. Wonder if you are using screws that are too long? SpeedConcept.pdf (bikezona.com)
- Just to add to the above, and stating the completely obvious, as well as fully removing you can of course pull out and then insert it at a different (more aero) angle.
How’s the clearance with the arm cups ? I always wanted to try the RON arm cups or something longer like the tririg, but I figured the way the bars rise up it would mean the cups would t sit flush. Could you grab some pics if possible especially underneath so I can see how that sits by chance ?
How’s the clearance with the arm cups ? I always wanted to try the RON arm cups or something longer like the tririg, but I figured the way the bars rise up it would mean the cups would t sit flush. Could you grab some pics if possible especially underneath so I can see how that sits by chance ?
Tririg do work allright. Sort of.
You are somewhat limited how far they can be rotated inwards though, as the tip of the cup starts hitting the extension base when toed too far in.
TriRig offers specific SC hardware for the cups (these flimsy M4 screws plus special washers you need) and that set comes with a 20mm (or 15mm?) spacer block that solves that issue by raising the cups.
I didn’t like the cups being that high, and opted to just mount them directly to the base.
Works fine.
Ahhh thanks for that - u run them kinda wide. I assume if you narrowed them you’d run into issues ?
Ahhh thanks for that - u run them kinda wide. I assume if you narrowed them you’d run into issues ?
That’s exactly the case. Fortunately my wife (it’s her setup) likes the cups pretty wide.
If you need to mount them closer together, then there’s no way around using the spacer blocks to achieve sufficient inward rotation of the cups.
Thanks for the responses. See the disc wheel hub I was trying to put on the bike. For some reason I couldn’t fit it. Should this fit given it is not circular
Other than the flat spots for a wrench, looks circular to me…
It should fit. Like I said, just wiggle the wheel a bit trying to get the alignment right
Yeah, no reason it shouldn’t. One thought though, have you checked the brake rotor isn’t fouling on the calipers (noting you’ve not put this wheel in before) and pulling the wheel off to the side, so that it’s then blocking the skewer. This is linking a couple of things together, but just wondering.
I had a mare of a job even getting the factory wheel out of the frame past the mech. In the end I found it was only possible when the rear mech wasn’t in the smallest gear, needed to be mid cassette then was easy.
Yeah, no reason it shouldn’t. One thought though, have you checked the brake rotor isn’t fouling on the calipers (noting you’ve not put this wheel in before) and pulling the wheel off to the side, so that it’s then blocking the skewer. This is linking a couple of things together, but just wondering.
I had a mare of a job even getting the factory wheel out of the frame past the mech. In the end I found it was only possible when the rear mech wasn’t in the smallest gear, needed to be mid cassette then was easy.
Ahhh thanks for that - u run them kinda wide. I assume if you narrowed them you’d run into issues ?
That’s exactly the case. Fortunately my wife (it’s her setup) likes the cups pretty wide.
If you need to mount them closer together, then there’s no way around using the spacer blocks to achieve sufficient inward rotation of the cups.
They come with spacers ?
I do love the trek but they really fkd up this whole front end integration. I know it’s been said before but I’d love to have some longer bar pads that aren’t interfered with the rise in the bar itself…… and to change the bars out so I can get my hands narrower and less of a ski so I don’t feel like I’m punching the air. Without spending thousands on top of the bike to customise it that is
There’s a $75 Speed Concept kit you need to get. 4 smaller (4mm) bolts, 4 washers and the spacer.
Speed Concept Hardware For Scoops – TriRig
I do love the trek but they really fkd up this whole front end integration. I know it’s been said before but I’d love to have some longer bar pads that aren’t interfered with the rise in the bar itself…… and to change the bars out so I can get my hands narrower and less of a ski so I don’t feel like I’m punching the air. Without spending thousands on top of the bike to customise it that is
Couldn’t agree more!
There’s a $75 Speed Concept kit you need to get. 4 smaller (4mm) bolts, 4 washers and the spacer.
Speed Concept Hardware For Scoops – TriRig
It’s $45, not $75, and you have to order it extra.
Still quite pricey for a few M4 bolts, aluminum washer and the two spacer blocks.
Here’s a picture of the blocks (they are 16mm):
I actually got some for my Gen 2 version, and notice mine didn’t come with the black head pieces…Maybe I need to call them.
Oh interesting. Wonder if they work with others like RON’s ept arm cups and stuff
Yeah, no reason it shouldn’t. One thought though, have you checked the brake rotor isn’t fouling on the calipers (noting you’ve not put this wheel in before) and pulling the wheel off to the side, so that it’s then blocking the skewer. This is linking a couple of things together, but just wondering.
I had a mare of a job even getting the factory wheel out of the frame past the mech. In the end I found it was only possible when the rear mech wasn’t in the smallest gear, needed to be mid cassette then was easy.
A bit of a rant but I’m 30mins into trying to connect a wheel I had on the bike at the weekend via the same skewer. This, plus reading the threads above re the front end makes me think I’m after making an expensive mistake buying this bike. It’s a lot of unnecessary BS to be dealing with for a 10k bike. I had a canyon and Argon and had none of this nonsense
A bit of a rant but I’m 30mins into trying to connect a wheel I had on the bike at the weekend via the same skewer. This, plus reading the threads above re the front end makes me think I’m after making an expensive mistake buying this bike. It’s a lot of unnecessary BS to be dealing with for a 10k bike. I had a canyon and Argon and had none of this nonsense
I recall reading about that very same issue here on this thread a while back.
I’m too lazy to skim through 55+ pages, but you might have the time and might find the answers helpful.
And it gives you a little time away from the SC to calm down and rest your soul. Haha
I don’t think you made a mistake going with the SC, it is just a special bike.
Once you figured it out, life is good.
Ah, sorry to hear your frustration, but big breath and it will all be alright. All bikes have their quirks that you need to get to know. My road bike, a cannondale synapse has an odd bottom bracket that can make fitting non factory chainsets a pain. My SC has replaced my old argon which despite having had for 12 years, I still used to forget and inflate the tyres then try to put into the frame to remember that the inflated tyres are too wide to go past the brakes and there was no quick release. Very annoying in a race when you’d used CO2… Equally first 2 years I was using it the extension bar would work loose. This despite being fitted to spec.
Re the issues with the SC. I did read all 55 pages 5 months ago before ordering, and so yep I was aware of the issue with the rear wheel. I had in my mind semi recollected it was more of an issue with SRAM than Shimano, or DA than Ultegra, but either way I’ve worked it out now, so a non issue. In your case with the skewer, I’m really sure there is going to be a knack to that for you, and once you’ve round it then you’ll be gold.
Re the bars - only an issue if you are looking to modify the standard setup. And nowadays to varying degrees that same applies to almost all the bikes. In part, the definition of custom means that some degree of inginuity/engineering is going to be required. These ‘superbikes’ are designed and sold as whole packages (for right or wrong).
