IM Copenhaguen AG madness

I actually had the last slot in M30-34, finish time 8h55’. 23rd Place in AG, but some of the top contenders already had their slot before the race. Of course also some guys didn’t feel the need to go so it rolled down to me.

I did the same race 2 years ago in 9h18’, 72nd overall. This time 68th overall with 8h55’ even though my numbers were a lot better (15W more on the bike, 10’ faster on the run).

Quite some level there 😁

Congratulations on the slot!

It looks like the rolldown worked well this year. In 2023, it was almost not a thing. My AG had 2 slots (there were 25 overall) and I only took mine because the top 2 guys in my group decided not to take their slots. In other groups, the situation was very similar.

So, again, you never know if you will get the slot even if you think you climb high enough😁

How do you guys ride over 40kph on just 260w? I don’t know what I’m doing wrong - my position is super low, and I have all the sensible aero stuff (good suit, helmet, calf sleeves, disc, deep front, old aero frame). Rode 265w/275NP avg multiple times (@75kg) with a very good eye for where to push on hills and I always split 4:46 or so. The addition of the sleeves and disc didn’t even make a difference.
Very reluctant to accept I need to pay for an expensive monocoque bar setup or eliminate short bits of uncovered gear cable. Those surely can’t add 3kph+.
What am I missing?

Being short helps me - I can ride 40kph avg at 235w AP (245w NP), 68kg, 172cm tall. Try not to use brakes, maintain constant speed without accellerating / decellerating, stay aero as much as possible, use descents to recover, push on climbs to maintain speed. I tend to ride low cadence and focus on pedalling smoothly

I’ll take up @jacob2727 on this - please anyone, roast my setup:


So the point is my average speed is always about 37.8kph, regardless whether the course is rolling or flat, even though I consistently push 26Xw avg /270w NP. Raced without a PM for a long time so I definitely ‘look for speed’ and punch the hill crests. Main things that come to mind:

  1. I’m clearly not making use of the modern Bottrill-style high & long front, but doing a Frodeno/Cancellara old school low flat arm position, which I like. A longer position would need a new bigger frame or a crazy 190mm+ stem (seriously considering this). Big issue?
  2. I’m suspicious of drivetrain losses as it’s an old bike. It’s not the new chain or chainring. BB is quiet but a little loose, and doesn’t keep momentum if you spin it - but there’s no resistance as such. Same for the jockey wheels. That leaves the rear wheel hub; while it feels a bit ‘heavy’, it turns for a long time so it could just be a waxy grease. The cassette looks normal and doesn’t seem worn. Ditto with the jockey wheels, they don’t freely spin after a flick, but seriously that can’t be more than a couple of watts. I plan to replace them and replace the BB.
  3. Tyres - I’ve used a 23mm Vittoria Corsa Speed tubular on the back, on an old Zipp 900 disc (cork-like flat core), and I typically pump it to 6.5 bar / 90-95 psi or basically what’s highest without rattling me on rough UK roads. Front has been 23mm Corsa clincher on a Mavic Cosmic shallow section or a similar 19mm tyre on a carbon four-spoke, pumped to 5.5/6.0bar or 80-85psi (for braking and because my weight’s mostly on the back). Have used a variety of wheels and tyres and this hasn’t changed my speed. Surely I don’t need to start using 28mm disc brake stuff?
  4. Helmet - before the jeers, I’ve gone from Poc Cerebel to Poc Tempor to Met Drone. Here’s an older pic of basically the same setup (bottle went down the top back then, instead of behind the saddle). Was going the same speed back then:

    I always assumed people were just drafting when I saw ratios like 240w/41kph on tall guys with similar builds. Now I know I’m wrong - so what gives?

37.8 on 265w is pretty bad. There are a lot of factors that it could be.

90kg total mass, on bad roads (CRR .006), at sea level (air density 1.22), with very average CDA of 0.25, 97% drivetrain efficiency, you should need maybe 240 watts to do that.

37.8 km/h = 10.5 m/s

( 90 * 9.81 * .006 * 10.5 + 0.5 * 1.22 * 0.25 * 10.5^3 ) / 0.97= 239.3w

You should be able to see how the different parameters impact power.

Chances are it’s the sum of a bunch of things.

If it were me, step 1, I would learn to test or find someone that could help you.

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Testing on perfectly flat, good tarmac, 10 km out/home, fully suited up, sleeves, disc, aero helmut and race rubber (GP5000 TT TR), I need 200-205w at 75 kg to avg 40 kmh on a latest gen Argon 18 E119 Tri Disc, with a few tweaks up front, but generic aero bars.
On my old Argon 18 E119 (2016), with Vittoria Tubs, that would be closer to 230-235w (similiar aero position).

How tall are you?

Suppose that is a question for me: 181 cm (5´ 11")

Probably 5 kg shy of optimal race weight.

Which is interesting because Argon says there is less than 4 watts between those bikes. It shows you how important “the rest” of the stuff is

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I agree.

Upgraded wheels: from Zipp 808 and Sub9 2010 tubulars to DT Swiss (80 mm and rear disc) with TPU inner and GP5000 TT TR 28/25 mm.

Slight upgrade to position, which ia actually now 1.5 cm HIGHER on the elbows on my new rig. Lower is not always better, folks :blush:
Allows a closer fit for my MET helmut

Aero Sleeves from Swiss Side (not wearing earlier)

IMTalk just released an interview with AG winner Stephen Derret (1st place: 7:54:50)

starts at about 19mins in.

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thats a bling bike

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