Anyone in the San Francisco Bay Area with a 58cm P Series? I'm trying to design a rear box for it and need to take some measurements and test fit a prototype.

Here's the rear box I've designed for the 56 P Series


Email me at yann@custombikexcessories.com if interested in helping out.

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http://www.custombikexcessories.com
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Why would you want to go smaller?

Because I can only find a 140mm in stock anywhere in the UK and I need two 160mm for front wheels and 140mm is normally enough on the rear.

Looks like I'll be picking up a 2020 Di2 spec P series on Monday. I'm getting it second hand and there's some damage to the vision basebar.

I'm paying a price that would allow me to replace the bars within my budget, so I'm looking at all options, ideally I want it to look as clean and cable free as possible and have tilt adjustment.

Here's my options so far

1. Vision Metron TFA £700 https://www.wiggle.co.uk/...n-metron-tfa-aerobar
Top of the list so far. Super adjustable, cables could port out the back of the stem into the frame, but I spoke to vision and they say this isn't compatible with the acr expander to run the front brake hose through the steerer tube, so I'd have to send that out from the bottom of the bar/stem and into the top of the fork. Unless there's another expander that might make it work? There's a useful build report of a bmc with loads of pics of it here https://bikeboard.at/...tfahrlenker-th252071

And another less neat p series build using these bars here, but the front brake is routed externally.

2. The neatest I've seen so far, Chris Hall's. https://www.cervelo.com/...-custom-build-reveal

This uses PRO missile bars and stem
£930 (although his aerocoach extensions would double that) but the front brake cable is external.

3. Tririg alpha one £720 https://www.tririg.com/store.php?c=alphaone

Similar to the above options, no way of routing front brake through the steerer. Also the thread on here about the alpha one doesn't fill me with much confidence in these.

4. 51speedshop mono riser aerobar
Out of stock at the moment and same issues as above

Zipp and profile design have options for separate bars and stem but both quite expensive and would depend on finding a stem that would allow me to route cables through it.

I've looked at fsa/vision, deda vinci or dcr but none of these have the option to send cables out the back of the stem into the frame.

So, is there anything else I'm missing or haven't thought of?

Those of you who have routed through the steerer, would any of those work well doing the hydraulic brake hose at quite a tight angle?

Routing through the steerer is quite easy to do. You just need to get the expander plug that allows the brake hose to go into the steerer like FSA is making them.
I did this for my girls bike and the bend on top is quite acute, no problem. Very clean look ;-)

Jeroen

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Owner at TRIPRO, The Netherlands

FYI, people are using the FSA/Vision Systems with cables routes out the back. Just requires trimming the top cap cover

Thanks Jeroen, any chance of some pictures of that acute bend? It sounds like the guy from Vision was just being cautious, but I just want to be sure before I spend £700!

Was it this expander plug you used? I can't see any pictures or videos of it being installed.
https://shop.fullspeedahead.com/...093675926.1626386962

BigBoyND, the metron TFA looks like it comes with a space to route cables out the back of the stem section, will I have to trim it to make that possible?

No, that one has exit ports. I'm walking about the ACR stems

Has anyone replaced the grips or modified it somehow on the trp levers? They become extremely slippery when sweating a lot. (Live in Arizona)
I was even thinking of removing all the housing from the levers and wrapping them in tape.

Thought I’d check here for an easier option before attempting.

Silca TT stickers are thin and grippy

Do you have a link to any specific brand you recommend/use?

Silca is the brand: https://silca.cc/...nastro-aero-bar-tape

I also really like the Otion Micro-Cillia option: https://www.ebay.com/...6:g:RAcAAOSwH61cLzCA

Oh that’s dope. Def going to get that. Thanks for that!

https://www.controltechbikes.com/products/item/423.html

this should allow you to run through the steerer if that's how your fork is run.

That’s dope. Wish I had found that before I did mine, I’d have got all the cables in there!
But I ain’t re bleeding my brakes unless I absolutely have too.

Oh nice, I wasn't aware of this option. The FSA version is hard to find at the moment. Now I just need to find out whether my fork (Canyon Disc CF 8) allows for internal cabling.

i hope it's fine to revive this old thread since i just bought this bike (2020 version):

• Did anybody replace the TRP levers with Shimano ones? Is this possible without changing the calipers? OR are there people who made their peace with this "weird" shape / giant size?
• Is it normal/expected, that the seatpost is super long on my 51cm frame? I'll probably need to cut it (lowest level possible is approximately my seat height)
• If i wanted to get my cockpit slightly cleaner, what would be the easiest option? Just put the junction into the bento box (seems the cables are too short for that though)? I would like to start slow instead of changing the basebar right away or doing the "front brake internally" surgery
  

I put my junction box in the bento without changing the wires.

I replaced those awful TRP levers with Dura-Ace ones. They brake just fine. The mechanic at my local shop was even impressed with how good they felt. Regarding the bento box, I also relocated my junction box there. Note that I have a 51-Speedshop front end, but I think it's the same process with the stock cockpit. I cut a hole in the front of the bento, along with the other plastic piece covering the brake cable frame routing, and just stuffed it all into the bento. I also covered the junction box in foam so it doesn't rattle around.

Isn't there space for a smaller junction B in the stem/handlebars and then running a bar end junction A? That's how I routed my cables in my rim-brake P3. I now have one shift cable and one brake cable coming from the back of the stem/base bar.

Thanks a lot. Further comments:

Brakes:

• so you would say change to Shimano is a good investment? I'd like to decide right away so i can sell the old parts as "like new".
• To be sure: You did new levers, old calipers, old brake hose? Would be cheapest. However, it seems that Dura Ace Di2 ST-R9180 is mostly sold in combination with calipers - maybe i'll redo all at once then

Junction box:

• It seemed as if the cables from the brake levers were too short to put it into the bento box but i'll check again

I would say so. The TRP levers we too long to comfortably access (for me at least), and they were very slippery when my hands got sweaty. I was able to find some Dura-Ace levers on eBay, which is all that I replaced, although I think my local bike shop also had to replace the hose because it was juuuust too short. I kept the TRP calipers though.

I also had to replace some Di2 cable when replacing the cockpit, so that makes sense that I didn't run into that problem when relocation my junction box.

Having taken delivery of my 2019 p series ultegra back in December (was the last one in the Uk and so I ended up paying just a bit more than the frame set price) I’ve started getting it ready to race.

I’ve moved the di2 over from my 2008 p2, the shop kindly got me the seatpost battery for free.

Now it’s time to play with the front end

I’ll be installing the 3t ventus off my old bike as I really like them, and fit wise I don’t see much of a problem, but my aero coach angled spacers had crumbled so I’ve bought a set of the wattshop adjustable spacers, and I plan to get in touch with QR to see if I can get one of their top cap assemblies to do the through fork mod featured up thread.

The last piece of the puzzle will be wheels as the stock ones are pretty shallow and weigh a tonne, but I’m the bike can borrow my hollowgram 35: off my road bike for now!

So front end now just about sorted, I used the fsa acr compression bung, and routing the hose through the fork was surprisingly simple, although remembering to put top cap, and spacers on is a must before routing the hose through the bars!

In terms of top caps I milled a hole in an old top cap which works nicely.

Still a little work to do adjusting the front end now the bike is off the work stand, the extensions need to be trimmed at both ends and angles set on the wattshop adjustable wedges and some tweaking of the cables to tidy them up a bit more

I’m in conversation with a local machinist to make some matched spacers, and then will think about some race wheels.