Ditto. And if you have a 10 speed Shimano SGX-B 53 chainring on an Ultegra crank, can you get a 52 narrow-wide chainring and chain without changing the crank? It doesn't seem worthwhile if you have to change everything over to SRAM.

I am sure you can get ring for your set up and then that would all you would need.

My 1x build is a P5 with sram x-sync 54t chain ring on a sram srm powermeter. DA Di2 rear derailleur and the 1-button shifters on the extensions. Will add cat-eye buttons on right magura brake lever for additional shifting. Currently riding a 11-28 cassette, and don't think I will go any bigger than that. Then I'll just use a regular setup when I need smaller gears on one of my other bikes. Only have one ride on it so far, but I like the simplicity of the setup.

Would love to see a picture when you have time.

It won't be too long before people look at having a double chainring like they look at having a triple chainring right now. You get a good range, even for hilly areas, with a 52 + 11-36.

That said, I'm on a 52/11-28 11sp on my road bike, and have a 52-16 single speed (1x1 setup?), and a 1x11 on my cx setup, though I can't remember the ratios on that at the moment. My tri bike still has a standard setup, as does my mtb for now, but it seems like just about every high end mtb is a 1x11 setup. But I don't ride it enough to justify the upgrade cost.

Unless you live in the front range or the dolomites, I don't see any reason to have two chainrings.

May I jump in with a question?

I have a 650-wheel bike ( 1999 Cannondale Multisport 2000).
I bought it without a drive train, and just swapped over some parts so I could ride it in a tri this summer.The chain is too short, and the shifter/rear der. apparently are not a perfect match (said the LBS when I took it in for a wheel true) So, I figure a proper setup is needed...

If I were to switch over to a 1x10/11 system, would the wheel size affect my cassette choice? I have been told that the smaller wheels , in essence, equal a compact crank. I ride in an area of flats and hills.Current crankset is shimano 6500. If the current crank could be used, I would need - narrow-wide chain ring, new rear derailleur, new chain, and new cassette... Correct?

thanks!

Hi,



Use this setup on my first tri. 1x10 with Sram Force der (normal, not cx1), sram rival shifter, sram x-sync 44t chainring and 11-25 cassette.
Switch to sram red Quarq since the picture.That's my "light" bike, I have a tri bike too but not 1x

Wow that is a nice collection.

Posted before, but here it is again.

Cervelo P5-6, 54 x-sync chainring, Force 22 RD (not clutch), Sram 11-32 cassettes, FD mount removed, just one shifter.

So far very happy. I will run a smaller cassette for some of my flat TTs.

Very similar gear range to my 53/39 11/25 setup.

Was wondering why the 1x is just now gaining traction for road as the technology itself appears to have been around awhile. Any ideas?

Availability of 11 speed cassettes which help reduce the problem of overly large gaps between gears, plus the availability of parts such as clutch rear derailleurs and special chainrings designed to prevent chain drop.

When you remove the front chain ring are you replacing both with one that corrects the centerline? When I changed my mountain bike over this was the method and it works well. I am concerned about cross chaing when in the big rear chain ring.

The cranks that I am using have a removable spider so when I do the change to the single spiderless chainring it places it right between the small and large rings and improves the chainline from just slapping on a new ring.

That is the set up on my mtn bike...SRAM XO. Unfortunately my tri bike does not. I am thinking of trying the Wolf Tooth no drop 52 tooth ring with an 11-26 rear cassette.

I'm waiting for AB to release the 52t version of this one :

http://www.absoluteblack.cc/aero-sram-direct-mount-oval-criterium-chainring/


To put on my black BMC, should be nice

Hey, nice setup!



Sram X Sync 52t ring + 6870 RD GS + 11-32 cassette. Was good at Louisville but in hindsight a 50t might've been a better choice.

How safe is the "1x" with the special chain ring?
Is it 100%? Has anyone experienced a dropped chain?

My anecdotal experience with "normal" single rings on smooth roads is ~a couple of chain drops per hour of riding, if I don't shift in a very specific way (slow soft pedaling until the shift is completed). So definitely not race-worthy.

Zero drops. Well, with this chainring I did drop once but it was b/c I was going very slow and went over a speed bump and didn't have my feet in shoes (was right out of T1). Was easy to put back on and didn't lose much.

Great to hear that! I am actually in the process of building a 1x11 p5 also. My question is about chainline. Did you have to align your crankset or chainring in a ceratin way? Thanks in advance.

When looking for dropped chain data, a good question to ask is whether they're running a regular RD, or a clutch type RD.

I think a good rule of thumb is have one of the following: wide narrow front ring, or clutch RD. I opted for the x-sync and standard RD due to the higher drivetrain friction of the clutch RD. Although I haven't done too many rides on it, I have ridden on some rough stuff without issue.

I wonder when we'll get 1x12. If 11 is good, 12 must be better, right?

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'It never gets easier, you just get crazier.'

The sram x-sync chain ring is offset, so the chain runs in a position between where the small and big ring would normally be. That solves the chain line issues.

Has this been tested/documented somewhere?

This is an interesting thread about it: http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...post=5493719#5493719

According to other threads there is no frictional loss from the clutch RD, maybe a microwatt so not a concern. That's assuming you use the proper Sram setup, a cobbled system may or may not act the same I'm not sure. The Sram 1X ring is indeed offset to give you proper chainline, it basically sits right in the middle of where a small and big chainring would be

I have read that thread, and some material on another Board. Nothing is conclusive, but there seems to be agreement that the clutch RD introduces some loss. That loss may be immaterial or not.

I have experimented with increasing the chain tension on my single speed road bike. Although anecdotal, it certainly feels like there is a point where chain tension is detrimental.

I too would like to see more data on this.

Not sure what your LBS is thinking... When dropping wheel size from 700c to 650c, in order to maintain the same gear ratios you'd need to add 2-3 teeth to the chainrings. So that would generally mean going from a 50/36 compact to a 53/39 standard.

Going to a 1x set-up really doesn't need much more than the n-w chainring. You might want a wider range in the back, though. The 10-speed cassette will likely still fit on the current freehub you have (if it's 8-speed). If you go past 28T in the back, you may have issues with the RD.

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OK, I can't upload pics, but I have a P5-6 build very similar to the ones above:

- Sram RTC 11sp shifters (left the left one on as I like symmetry)
- Sram Rival Wi-FLi RD (standard 10sp model, non-clutch);
- 11-32 Sram cassette (11sp)
- Chainring is a custom-made Ossymetric shaped 54t, with Narrow-Wide teeth (same as Sram X-sync tooth profile). I wanted an oval chainring, but nobody makes one with NW teeth so had to get it custom made.
- Don't use any front chain catcher.

My experience so far - 1 dropped chain in maybe 2000km of riding - all conditions, training, racing, hitting speedbumps at speed, rough ravement, etc.

The only chain drop I had was during a downshift while soft-peddling down hill at the end of a training ride. No idea what caused it. Otherwise it has been perfect and never missed a shift or dropped a chain. I previously tried running a standard Q-ring (normal teeth) and that would drop chains shifting on the trainer - the NW teeth is a must.

I see no reason for a clutch derailleur (on road bikes) if you have a NW chainring (plus they're like 100g heavier than my cheap Rival RD!).

I should add that I had way more chain drops per km riden shifting the FD of my old 2x setup.... admittedly with Q-rings.

Not worring about a dropped chain with a front chainring shift makes me far happier with the current setup.

Thanks for all the answers.
So, the NW chainring seems to be 90% of the equation to get 99.999% function. The clutch RD helps but is not really required, no?

Follow up question: will a SRAM NW ring work with a 9-spd chain? Will the chain still be "under control" with the added wiggle-room?

Is the Fibre-Lyte ring "narrow wide" or just deeper, looking for a custom 50T which fits 130 BCD (I don't think anyone makes those)

Maurice

I have a new ring arriving this week from Fibre-Lyte I believe so I will take a picture of it when it is here and next to a standard ring. I do believe their rings are a bit deeper which is why I have never had a dropped chain every with them while running 1 X 10 set ups.

How much did you pay for the custom ring?

Do you know if you can you customize the ovalness (major-minor ratio)?

I got it from an Australian company that does custom parts - www.fetha.com.au - cost me A$200 / ~US$180 plus shipping.

They can do any shape, I initially wanted a 54 Q-ring (10% ovality) but they had previously done drawings for a NW 54 Ossymetric shape so I just decided to try that.

Correct - yes a clutch derailleur may be safer, but so far I'm happy with my standard derailleur and I've ridden on some pretty rough roads with no issues.

Not sure about a 9sp chain - the added interior width of the chain plates may mean that it won't engage the teeth of a 10/11sp NW charinring as tightly and so may have higher risk of dropping.

Wolf Tooth recommends a 10spd chain even on a 9 speed drivetrain.

If you have experience with 1x setups do you think a 52 with 11-28 cassette setup would cover most areas without huge mountains/climbs?

53,39 with a 11-26 cassette. That being said I hardly ever drop down to the 39 unless it's a big hill and I'm really tired. I figure one less tooth on the front and two more in the rear might give me that just right mix.
My other idea is to use a 44 ring and a 10-? Cassette but am not sure if that would be enough top end.

11-28 will probably will be fine without big climbs.

A 52/28 gear is equivalent to a 39/21, so factor that into what is the highest gear you currently use.

54/32 gets me a 39/23 equivalent. I very rarely have to use the 32 on the rear, and I mostly only ever go up to the 28T cog. The 32 is there in reserve if I need it.

My issue and the reason for going with the smaller front ring is that I have many climbs that are 12%-14% just to get home. I am not willing to go with anything bigger than 28 on the back so the smaller front will be fine for me. I am currently running 11/23 with a 50/36 on the front so I should be fine with the 46t front and 11/28 rear. I know I am giving up some at the low end but not much at the top end.

In your case I would prefer to stay with a 2x and keep the smaller steps in the cassette.

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Some are born to move the world to live their fantasies...

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http://www.mjolnircycles.com/

It should be OK as a 50/12 is the same as a 46/11 and a 46/28 is a fraction larger than my 36/23. I do give up some spacing at the higher end but I will be in the lower range for most of my riding so I will have close jumps still. The only issue is that I will be missing my 16t which I love BUT I love it with my 50t front. With the 46t front I will be in my 15 more now.

11-23: 11-12-13-14-15-16 -17-19-21-23

11-28: 11-12-13-14-15-17-19-22-25-28

New ring arrived today so now all that is missing is my Black Friday purchase of 2 of the OMEGA X brakes.

Cool to see Audi tin the carbon fibre chainring market now, where do you make an order? :)

What crank is that?
You had a thread about repainting the frame a while back, right?
Could you put some pictures up of the full bike, would love to see your progress?
Just picked up a NP2 on a crazy discount and looking for insperation to spend the savings :)

Chainring bolts and spider? where are they?

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BoulderCyclingCoach.com

They bolts are on the spider behind the scale on the work bench. No need to be anywhere else at this point

I will try to take a picture at some point over the weekend. I am still waiting for the new SIGMA X to come out which is the stem that I want to use. Right now using the SIGMA.

The bike currently sits at 13.75lbs but is still missing the chain, cables/housings, front brake and catalyst disc cover. Finished weight for this build should be in the low 15's or high 14's

Should be nice when completed. The front end is still a bit high but I do not want to play with it too much until I have the new SIGMA X. So I do not really want to cable it either until I have that as well.

Here you go. As mentioned I still need to slam the stem and raise the armpads.

I really like your paint scheme.

What is the crankset?

I assume you are not going to have a p2m powermeter :)

No power meters on this bike "YET" but I have other options for training with power.

The cranks are an older pair of FSA cranks that have a removable spider and I have used these for a very long time with great success. The cranks without BB are only 535g so pretty light. I currently have them on my MTB as well with a 32t spiderless ring set up. Never dropped a chain ever while on the MTB and no clutch RD either. Fibre-Lyte have built me some amazing items over the years like a full carbon single speed conversion kit and many rings. I was surprised that the 16t cog in carbon held up as long as it has.

I will run this one for a while and see how it turns out. If I do need a bigger ring then I will get one as well and just use this one on a rode bike built that I am thinking of doing with a cheap carbon frame with removable FD. I have enough parts in the garage to build up a very nice 11 lbs. 1 X 10 road bike.

Just need NICK at TRIRIG to get on the new stem so that I can complete the build but I will use the old tririg stem for now.

I'm planning on running a 1x system on an old frame I just picked up. I have a spare Ui2 climbing shifter (I thought it was a neat option to have when I went Ui2, but found I never used it, so took it off). Hence, if i use the climbing shifter to handle the gear change, will I need the junction box, or can i just run the wire down to the wiring junction? I don't need the battery indicator function, as can check the battery status on my other bike when required. Thanks.

You need an "A" junction somewhere in the system. Could be the 3 or 5 junction box, but I haven't tried without it.

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/kj

http://kjmcawesome.tumblr.com/

Thanks for your response. Btw, I just found the thread you started on the topic. I like SuperDave's option: shall research that a bit further. Shame he didn't elaborate on how he got his system to work.

Here's mine:


1x7. Ride it every day :-)

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http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

I used some 6770 Brifters and a 6870 rear derailleur for a 1x11 setup. Shoot me a PM with your email and I'll show you my setup and "wiring diagram".

I used the mini junction. With the female end and a wire going to the shifter and the two male outputs going to the battery and the rear derailleur (via one of the mini B boxes).

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/kj

http://kjmcawesome.tumblr.com/

Holy moly BMANX. Absolutely amazing.

Sure looks like a dropped chain to me... ;-)

Any idea how much that carbon fiber chainring weighs alone? Everything is looking pretty sharp, nice build.

108g total weight.

The spider and rings that I had were 194g total weight.

What life expectancy does everyone have (or experience) with the FiberLyte rings? I'm really tempted, but don't want to change out an expensive ring every couple of months

I have over 3000 on a pair of standard rings so far and no issues

That is pretty darn light. What about the entire crank weight with chainrings? I'm guessing somewhere in between 450-550grams.

Very good guess. The cranks are 460g. 170g for the non drive arm and 290 for the drive arm and ring. The BB that I use is 155g.

I'm such a sucker for 1x's... This is seriously sick.

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@floathammerholdon | @partners_in_tri

That is really good. I was aiming for that range when I started making my own crank out of cf but the spindle layup really sets me back... Not easy to achieve a sub 500 gram crank without compromising strength

You need to find an older EW-6770A junction from Ultegra 10s Di2.

-SD

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Thanks Cloy26, really like the full black of Bmanx too !

I finally got around to to finishing my build. I previously had Ultegra 6800 on this bike but drank the SRAM koolaid and went full 1x11.


I changed over to 1190 R2C shifters, 52T chainring, Force 1 RD, 1170 11/32 and 11/36 cassettes, and a RED chain. Since I just got it back together a little while ago I haven't even had a chance to ride it yet. The only thing left is for TriRig to release their new stem and I'll be set.

I think while I wait for some parts to arrive, I am going to just cable the RD and put this on the trainer for a while. Brakes should arrive this week but I do not want to cable anything until I can get the new TriRig stem on when they are available. See how this works out over the Christmas break.

Sorry I'm late to the party here. I built this out Spring of 2014 and raced it at TWN 70.3 that same year.
Gearing: 46T 11-30 (this is what I found to work very well for me) There are plenty of options to pick from and you should explore and experiment with them.


I maintained the LEFT shifter as I like the completeness of the look and also it works best on how my hand rest on the bar end.



Having a power meter, I felt, was very important when running a 1X system. It keeps you in the desired range and honest through out your race.

That looks fantastic!

the 11-30 set, what are the jumps between cogs?

What RD are you using with the 11/30

The jumps on the SRAM RED XG-1190 11-30 cassette:
11-30: 11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,24,27, 30

SRAM Force1 RD Type 2.1medium cage
RD cassette compatibility: Medium cage - 11-26 through 11-36

This might be a dumb question but could I just simply take an older SRAM Force 10speed chainset (2x10), remove the chainrings and bolt on a new Sram x-synch chainring (obviously only 52 or 54 as it's 130 bcd) to the existing cranks arm?

Yes it should be that simple.

I've done exactly this with one of my Red 10sp cranks and I'm about to do it with one of my Red 22 cranks as well.

I love this thread, and the irony it brings. Glad to see so many people embracing what was unthinkable a year ago.

While my rig is not sexy, it's more of a training tool than some of these other rockets posted up here. Loving these full on TT bikes with 1x. So so clean.

Full details on my ugly 1x are here: http://www.pursuethepodium.com/ptp/2015/11/the-gerat

Love this build and will have to read about it after work. WELL DONE!

Some new pics but still waiting for my DASH Saddle.

Finally have my build ready to test ride.

14.75 lbs. of aero goodness. I have a few more tweaks to make but it will get its maiden voyage this weekend.

Brake pads shown are for tomorrows ride as I will use my FLO 30's

That is hot!

Just an upgrade of my setup previously posted. Now force Cx1 rear der, Sram Red Quarq, ISM attack Saddle
and 120mm -17° Zipp Sl Service Course Stem. Love all the stealth bikes of this thread !

I'm interested in building up a new bike with a Rotor QX1 narrow-wide ring. Anyone have any experience with these?

Gabbie....Are you getting any noise in your rides? My set up is making excessive (Huffy like) noise in my largest three rear cogs. I am running a standard 2x Rotor 3d + crankset, Red medium cage RD and a SRAM N/W 48 T chainring

How does cadence from a standard (e.g. 53/39/11-23 11sp) set up compare to a 1x (e.g. 48T 11-28) set up?

I am not sure how they compare as I am still setting up my build to see how it goes. I will do some courses on my road bike and tri bike to compare.

Most of my training rides are done with a 50/36 and a 12/28 rear. I am able to stay in my big ring for most of the rides with the exception of the west coast hills that I have to manage which are from 6% to 13% around my home.

For the races that I will be doing next year, they will be short and no hills.

So I will be running a 46t front with an 11/23 rear. The 46/11 will give a slight edge over the 50/12 that I was riding before but we are talking .4 difference in regards to gear inches. I will not have the bail out gears that I normally have but I should have a much closer ration in my gears and my assumption is that I will be able to manage my cadence much better than say running my 50t with an 11/23.

The whole 1x set up for me is about finding the best option for my racing and for the most part I am only really losing 2-3 gears overall but without all of the gear changing required to achieve those gears while racing. I like the simplistic nature of the 1x set up.

As for the aeroness of the set up with hanger still on the frame, it really is a wash for now I believe and I am a weight weenie at heart so if I can save some additional weight that works for me.

The Rotor QX1 rings look very nice but do not fit on a Quarq. Just something to be aware of.

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"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro."
Hunter S. Thompson

Yes i wanted to put a QCX1 44T on my Quarq 110mm but it does not fit because of the battery. Shame

Here's my P5-S1x. Sram force 165's cranks with 48t chainring., 11-28t ultegra cassette, force RD, sram 1190 R2c, powertap P1 pedals

OK that is pure straight up sexy. WOW!

How are you finding the gearing as that is what I am running but with a 46t for trial for now. Yesterday I did a 2 hour ride on my road bike and tried to stay in my 50t (11-28) on the rear and there was a few hills that I could have rode in the 50 but took it easy in my 36. The next ride will be on my 1x tri build to test it out again but for a longer ride. first ride was amazing.

I am looking to go the 1x route on my TT bike. No races with hills but I am beating myself up over what I should run. Currently I run a 52/36 with 11-25. Sram doesn't make a 52 tooth 110 bcd so I would have to go with 50 on that crank. I also have another crank that's 130 bcd on my roadie I could just switch over and get the 52 for the 130bcd. Thinking I will go with 11-28 rear since that'll give me enough range. I WANT to just go with the 50 but WHAT IF I need to push over 32 MPH at 90 RPM down a hill?! Blah I guess I could just up the cadence to 100 and get 35.5. I just like the look of the 1x and I have ZERO hills here in the Chicago area where I would need anything for training either.

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Many of my rides are in the south and central parts of your great state. I am running a 52 with 11-28 cassette. Running out of gears with a tailwind has been a more common occurrence than I expected. I prefer a "slow cadence" in the 75 range, so anything over ~27-28 mph requires spinning up, which raises the HR without much additional power output or speed gain. On the other end, I have yet to feel that I needed an easier gear.

Good to know! I am usually mid 80s so unless I have a big downhill or big tailwind I should be fine. Might get a 52 for my other crank that way if I need to I can switch it up. Wish they made a 52 for 110 bcd though. Maybe soon.

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jrielley wrote:

Good to know! I am usually mid 80s so unless I have a big downhill or big tailwind I should be fine. Might get a 52 for my other crank that way if I need to I can switch it up. Wish they made a 52 for 110 bcd though. Maybe soon.

Maybe I am misunderstanding you, but SRAM most definitely makes a 52T chainring for a 110bcd crank.

http://www.artscyclery.com/SRAM_Red_Black_Chainring_52T_110_BCD/descpage-SRCRR52110B.html

Yes they do. But not the x sync one which seems to be the one thats needed for a 1x system. But if I am wrong let me know!

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Gotcha. I know some people have run a regular chainring and just kept the front derailleur to keep the chain in place. Remove all the cabling and just set it where it will hold the chain on if it tries to come off. Not as clean, but I hear it works.

Could just put a bash guard on both sides of the chainring; I imagine that'd be enough to keep it on in almost all cases.

Just for the record I believe the offset is different on the X-Sync chainrings to try and improve the chainline over normal outer rings.

Does anyone know what the chainline is on a standard ring vs the X-Sync or other specific rings.

I believe my Fibre-Lyte was 46mm but if I flip it, it was 43.5 which worked so much better.

I honestly have no idea where I read they were different, but I certainly can't find it now.

OK, I had an epiphany (small one) and remembered where I read it.

http://www.tririg.com/articles.php?id=2016_03_SRAM_1x_Road_Review&page=2


Nick talks about how the chain ring is offset to be in the middle of a traditional 2 ring setup, which makes sense, but there is no mention of actual measurements.

I measured mine so I know what they were but I believe that I read somewhere that 43-45 was around a standard chainline for a road bike. I would have to look it up again but 43.5 is working great for my build.

Ahh makes sense. I guess I could try that too since I won't be taking the hanger off since it is affixed to my frame. Not ready to go all in just yet.

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Someone needs to come up with a super simple light weight carbon chain guide when running 1x systems for road bikes. Maybe my next project

The narrow/wide chainring works great. They are cheap and available from multiple sources. Anyone who has a 110 bcd crank and complains that 50t is the biggest chainring they can buy is not getting any sympathy from me. Get a new crank or deal with coasting above 35mph.

I need to post a pic of my "new" bike - Trek Emonda with a 44x11-32 setup. I road up King's Mtn with a buddy last weekend and occasionally found myself reaching for one more gear on the way up (it always seems like I am one gear short regardless of gearing), but found 44x11 to be plenty on the way down.

Last year I raced Tahoe 70.3 with this same gearing and had the same experience.

I did just get a Wolf Tooth Road Link and Shimano 11-40 XT cassette and want to try that out for some steeper unpaved climbs.

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/kj

http://kjmcawesome.tumblr.com/

Only picture I've got at the moment, but I'm digging the 1x and very much digging the new 2016 http://DimondBikes.com

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@christopher_borden •
Spinning Spoke • Dimond Bikes • Flo Cycling • Castelli Cycling

Yeah there's no reason for me to complain! I had a 50/34 then changed to 52/36 so for me it's more of a I don't want a big change. But I'm very excited about the simplicity of it!

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That bike looks SO good with a 1x setup.

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/kj

http://kjmcawesome.tumblr.com/

Ok finally got around to snapping a pic of my "new" bike on my quick ride at lunch today.

Frame - Purchased from ZachBoring through ST classifieds
Wheels - ST Classifieds
Power Meter - ST Classifieds
Brakes - ST Classifieds
Saddle - ST Classifieds
Drivetrain - Stripped off a 2004 Madone I build up with Ultegra Di2 (switched from external to seatpost battery)

Currently set up with 44x11-32. I did a ride up King's Mtn (my favorite local climb) and felt gearing was ok on the way up and way down. I did pick up an 11-40 XT cassette that may be better for longer/steeper/unpaved climbs. I was thrilled to discover the Emonda fits Paris Roubaix tires (labeled 27mm, measure 30 on my wheels).

I don't race road, so this bike is only for training/enjoyment and the top gear of 44x11 really doesn't bother me. I pedaled up to 38mph today on a descent and then had to tuck and coast.

My goal of being free of front derailleurs has finally come true, but I will be the first to admit that for long, sustained climbs and descents a 2x setup is superior. But I love the simplicity and for rolling hills (very few real flats near where I live) 1x is absolutely fantastic. Plus it just looks great - now if I could only figure out how to get rid of the front derailleur mount...

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/kj

http://kjmcawesome.tumblr.com/

Am I missing a 50t new (4 bolt 110) Shimano single ring anywhere? Other than Fibre Lyte? Or SOL?

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Drill out the rivet! Looks great!

And hope that it is not bonded like I believe my Cervelo is. I am holding off drilling out the rivets for now until I am sure 100% that 1x is the way to go.

True. That could be problematic.

BUT you never know until you try right. I just want someone else to try first THEN I might try it myself. lol

Not my bike so I say KJ tries it :)

Ha. Thanks.

I did drill out the rivets on my Speed Concept. Bonded. Bummer. I assume it is the same with the Emonda (rivets are positioned the same and the hanger looks identical), but I'll let someone else give it a go first.

Already filed off the lawyer tabs, so my warranty is probably shot anyways. I can probably save 1/2 a gram by drilling out the rivets!

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/kj

http://kjmcawesome.tumblr.com/

That's going to be my issue with my DA too. I don't want to drill it out yet because if I go to a hilly race I might want to go back to a double with a tighter cassette. I am just mad now that I missed the UPS delivery of my ring and new cassette. So now I have to wait another day to get the parts.

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I emailed Fibre-Lyte to see if they have any ideas on how to make a cool custom chain guide for a road FD.

Yeah I have a 110 on my TT bike which is where I am going 1x now. But might change up the roadie too and get a 52 for that one. At least on my roadie I can take the FD hanger off so it'll look much nicer.

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I've been looking for a 48 or 50t for the 4-bolt Shimano too. No luck so far.

thanks for the reply, I figured I had scoured most everywhere. I'm running Falco's single ring now, but even though it's just for TT's (and with a wide cassette) I need a smaller ring. I'll probably give Fibre Lyte a go, have used their stuff in the past to good effect.

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My Blog - http://leegoocrap.blogspot.com

No narrow/wide option is the only thing that gives me pause with the FLytes. I'm not really interested in running a bash guard or catcher, not sure if I will feel ok without some bit of "assurance"

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My Blog - http://leegoocrap.blogspot.com

Just finished yesterday.

Evidently I don't know how to upload pictures.

Agreed with the taller teeth on the fibre-lytes and I have been using them for years as well. Zero issues as well.

Stephen at fibre-lyte said if we can come up with a simple adjustable chain guide design for a road FD he would look into making some.

Excellent, as usual I shall follow the ST hive mind and get some FLytes on the way.

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My Blog - http://leegoocrap.blogspot.com

I was running a Wolftooth 52 tooth narrow wide ring with an 11-32 cassette. I am now running an Absolute black 50 tooth oval ring direct mount on a SRAM X1 crank. It is flawless and covers almost any terrain.

I like my wolftooth rings on my cross bike, unfortunately they don't make a 4bolt any bigger than a 44t (which stinks... they make a 50t 5 bolt) Likewise no option from black.

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My Blog - http://leegoocrap.blogspot.com

uote Orbilius]Posted before, but here it is again.

Cervelo P5-6, 54 x-sync chainring, Force 22 RD (not clutch), Sram 11-32 cassettes, FD mount removed, just one shifter.

So far very happy. I will run a smaller cassette for some of my flat TTs.

Very similar gear range to my 53/39 11/25 setup.

[/quote]Been thinking about doing similar on my TT bike. I currently run a 50 11-28 combo, never use my small chain ring or go to 28 on the rear. I also feel like I spin out with my 50, not a super high cadence guy... so a 52/53/54 11-28 might just be what I'd want.

Still cant figure out the pics.
52-11/28.
Shifts to all gears well, but is it just me or does the narrow/wide chainring seem to hold the chain through rotation seemingly creating more resistance. It also seems louder.

That is contrary to my experience. The first thing I noticed with my 1 x setup was that it is eerily quiet. What chain are you using?

For reference:
Bike - Allez Sprint 1X
Chainring - 50T X-Sync
Chain - Sram 1170 (I think)
Cassette - Red 11-28
Rear Derailleur - Force X1

Not carbon (and not cheap), but k-edge makes a pretty slick chain guide specifically for SRAM 1x.

Red 22

Odd....next question. Is it clean and well lubed?

Brand new.

I'm definitely not worried about dropping the chain. It really holds its up front and that seems to be where the resistance and noise comes from.

Still weird....every review I have read talks about how quiet it is, and that was my first impression as well.

The only other idea I have is to strip the heavy coat of grease SRAM ships their chains in and apply a lube. But that really shouldn't make much of a difference.

I had the same thought. My Red 22 set up was pretty worn. I didn't measure the old chain, but I'm sure it was stretched and loose. When the Red 22 set up was clean and tuned, it was quiet and smooth.

You didn't put an old worn out chain on the new chain ring did you?

No. Brand new everything (chain, chainring, rear D) except cassette.

Here's my 1x10 setup. Rival 1 rear mech., 52T x-sync chainring, SRAM R2C shifters, 11-28 cassette. I have an 11-32 cassette on the way for training.

Just installed my chainring and mine is a bit loud too. Haven't done too much since I was in a rush so just put ring on my rival crank. Still need to take FD off and hope that helps. Chain is clean but a year old so maybe that's the issue? The chainring doesn't need to be on a specific orientation since I don't have the hidden bolt right? Can't wait to get home from dinner and hope to get it all figured out!

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Ok thanks! I have heard they were quieter so wasn't sure if I messed something up or needed to adjust the RD. But now time to dive totally in and take off the FD!

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secks

Ready for a 2 mile Prologue tomorrow morning.
SC 7 Series Plasti Dipped
3T Nano's w/ Ventus comfort pads, narrow pad mounts and Tririg Gammas (Hockey tape for bar tape) with skateboard grip tape on back of base bar.
SRAM TT shifters (left locked in place for hand comfort)
SRAM TT brake levers
LOOK Ergostem
Tririg Omega X
105 Crank
Falco Narrow Wide (Fiber Lyte has not arrived :( )
105 Pedals
Force XX1 RD with no name 13-15 Pulleys
KMC SL Chain, waxed, coated with Paraffin
Elite bottle
Nokons
View Speed Skewers
H3 Trispoke w/ ceramic / inner bearing dust caps removed, (golf) weighted tape opposite valve to balance wheel, 20mm Supersonic w/ latex + sealant
(Older) Zipp 404 PT w/ cover, Veloflex Record 22mm w/latex + sealant
Ares Saddle
Now if only the motor were in the same shape. Lets see how fast we can go with low watts :D

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My Blog - http://leegoocrap.blogspot.com

54x10 and 11-23. Now for Whistler that 23 is going to be rough so need to go either 30 or possibly 32. Last year before freezing to death, I went up the olympic park on 42x23 with 42x21 for most of the climb. Thinking of changing the bar end shifters and RD to 11sp. With the RD, how large can you run without needed a long cage?

Should be able to run a 28 with short cage and you might be able to run a 30 with the B-screw all the way but it depends on some other factors.

Nice Eastern Attack bar! They are so underrated but are probably the best production aerobar made (if you fit it of course).

Demo bars found on eBay for $150 :)

I know, right?! They are floating around on ebay for an eighth of the price of newer high end bars, but are not only 300+ grams lighter, but have a very low stack and frontal profile. Such a good value. Unfortunately, I had to sell mine because the extensions weren't long enough.

I wonder if in the right hands someone could modify these bars to allow for other extensions?

Balancing wheels? Pretty cool, any data on the results of doing this?

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BoulderCyclingCoach.com

I've thought about this; you could find either an older style Pro Missile or Easton Attack TT (The adjustable kind), remove the alloy collars, and bond them in to the older Eastons. That being said, it'd be a lot easier, and cheaper, to get either the Missile or Attack TT as, when you bond the collars in, you'll increase the weight to a point where I it'd be close to either of those bars (especially the missile; there is picture @ weight weenies that shows the 38cm missile weighing about 460 something grams, with extensions and arm rests).

Only other way I think it might be done is bonding a carbon clamp of some sort on to the existing extensions (similar to that prototype TriRig showed a while back). Fabricating a clamp out of carbon would be pretty expensive too.

No unfortunately, also golf lead tape is probably a worse solution than weighted putty. (Tungsten putty) There should theoretically be some benefit to a balanced wheel but likely very very marginal
I've heard Wiggins does it though so it must be ideal... Right...

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My Blog - http://leegoocrap.blogspot.com

Hey guys

Thanks for all the inspiration in this thread!

I noticed the lack of shimano di2 solutions though. Does that not work well at all? I run a 1x group on the cx bike and it works great (Force CX1). Intrigued by trying it out for tri as well. Looking for some advice as to how I go most sensible about, starting with the setup i currently have.

Trek SC with DA9070. I'm thinking that 54/11-28 would work for most things but down the line I would appreciate 11-32 or even 11-36 cassette options. So I would likely need to do something about the RD. Perhaps the woolftooth roadlink is enough to make a standard 9070 rd run 11-32 or even 11-36? If that wont work, do i need to invest in the XTR di2 RD? will that work with the rest of the DA system?

Ok, so for the crankset and chain ring. Would obviously prefer to reuse as much as possible. Can I order a fibre-lyte ring and call it a day? will it sit propperly on the outer ring and work with the range of the cassette? Any other straight forward solutions?

Any other input or ideas would be most welcome!

Thanks :)

Probably need a medium or long cage RD. Building mine up soon.

Rival Crank - 50 T 170mm, replacing Ultegra 6700 50/34T 170mm

Rival 1X RD medium cage (the newest version has 36T max capacity and the original wifli supports 32T max), Replacing Force short cage.

If you have Shimano 10Sp there may be some N.O.S. Mtb RD that would work... or a road medium cage.

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___________________________________________
http://en.wikipedia.org/...eoesophageal_fistula
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cerebral_palsy
2020 National Masters Champion - M40-44 - 400m IM
Canadian Record Holder 35-39M & 40-44M - 200 m Butterfly (LCM)

Here is mine! Loving it so far. Need a new RD since that one is old and the barrel adjuster is broken so can't get it PERFECT. But two races in and loving how simple it is. 50 tooth up front and 11-28 rear but used 11-25 for the first race of the season.[/img]

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I went 50x 11-28 In Whistler last year, about a 190 Watt guy for IM. You can go 32 by reversing the b screw on tour Rd. Went 11-30 for muskox as it is a puncher course.

No issues for me but I am a masher.

...maybe you could make it for beers/ST etc this year.

Maurice

-SD

Is this 1x(1) option only aero when turning left all the time. What happens when I turn right?

That's so funny. That's one of the most common questions ["yea but what if I turn right?"] following the unveiling and the press launch in Tahoe.
It's not less aero that right side drive in all the same applications where right side drive is ok. Actually it's the same; left or right doesn't matter in still air or in an open environment. On the track, right side is worse in every situation except on the straightaway not being passed or passing where it's a net zero.

-SD

Was joking and should have been in pink. Looks cool but not enough gears.

Apparently there is some yaw on an indoor track. They designed the left side drive to overcome that. Time will tell to see if it takes the gold. All it takes in team pursuit is one rider to be out of sync and the advantage is null.

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___________________________________________
http://en.wikipedia.org/...eoesophageal_fistula
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cerebral_palsy
2020 National Masters Champion - M40-44 - 400m IM
Canadian Record Holder 35-39M & 40-44M - 200 m Butterfly (LCM)

1 x 11s is somewhat event specific. 1 x 1s is well suited to the local 20km weekly TT series here which are contested around a pond in Long Beach or an old Marine Base in Irvine. I'll occasionally do a 3km or 4km effort on the track, too.

-SD

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https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

With a regular size rear derailleur? Or long cage? I have a 54 front. If I have a ride with 80rpm average, it feels like I've spun the whole ride, so definitely a masher. IMC should be 220-225w or so. This year, I'm bringing all my winter gear, just in case ;-)
And yes to beer and ST!

IMO 32 is fine on regular derailleur *if you reverse the B-screw* up to 30 is fine with normal screw all the way in…from personal experience…

Yes, we will bring all our winter gear this year and likely it will be a heat wave, super humid and 40 degrees ;-0 see you and the rest of ST crew for a beer, maybe friday.

Cheers,
Maurice

Humid and hot works for me :)

Not a direct reply to you, just want to add my last build. Waiting on a few pieces and better pics to come later.

1x specs:

50t absolute black chainrings
E tap rear derailleur
Wolf tooth road link
11-36 cassette (likely overkill but wanted to feel it out before committing to a smaller cassette)

Notes: waiting on the blip grips and need to get hockey/racket tape for the basebar

What cassette are you coming from and what is the new one? I run 50/34 12-27 now and would need something similar to the 34/27 for hills (big guy, constant rolling terrain).

How is the chain slack when you are down in the 11-13 range.

Good so far. Better than when I just had a rival rear derailleur on there. The rear spring is pretty well engaged even in the 11 and has more than enough room when in the 36. It may be better to explain with pictures if that doesn't make sens.

The b screw has quit a bit of adjustment.

One last questions sorry. How did you get the eTap RD without the other items as I thought they were only selling these as kits at this time and there did you please the blipbox.

That makes sense and I believe the addition of the RoadLink and B-adjustment screw placement help with the slack.

Are you running the blips at the extensions and brake lever area or will you change the blips on the extensions to clics. I like the clic option at the extensions which basically means no tape required and can you not put the blips under the bar tape as the lever area and not worry about the clamps?

Would love to see how you have this set up in the front end with the position of the blipbox and blips.

This is the set up that I would like to move to as soon as possible for my tri bike. Could do this set up for a 1x training bike as well. Do not need eTap shifters if you are creative enough and are OK with the blipbox which I would be on a training build.

I bought an aero upgrade kit and have a fd and traditional chain ring setup in case I ever think I need it.

Blip box is in the dsw bag. Couldn't figure out a cleaner way to route. I was going to have the blip box by the hands and one set of blips on the basebar (looked like it would reach, but I opted this way.

I had to open up the holes for the di2 wires in the alpha X slightly to get the plugs through. They would slip right into the traditional cable holes, but that wasn't as clean as I wanted.

Ask away on the questions. Doesn't bother me.

Here is it in the 11 tooth. So quite a bit of engagement to the spring.

No drops yet but it's only had two rides. And not any major chain slap to speak of.

That is great thank you. I was wondering how long it would take for someone to do a 1x with eTap and it is even better the way that you have it set up so I am sold.

I just have to wait until someone from a far off land posts just a RD on Ebay with free shipping to the great white north. Everything else is already available on Ebay.

Such a clean set up with no visible brake housing or shifter housing anywhere to be seen.

Haha glad I could help spend your money.

I guess you just haven't seen it yet because it isn't too widely available yet. And most people are probably waiting for the clutch rear derailleur solution that is said to be in the pipeline or the individual components to be available.

I didn't see the need for a clutch rear derailleur and its added bulkiness and likely weight.

11-36 works with with the new style 1x rear mech and thats what is on my TT 1x rig

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___________________________________________
http://en.wikipedia.org/...eoesophageal_fistula
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cerebral_palsy
2020 National Masters Champion - M40-44 - 400m IM
Canadian Record Holder 35-39M & 40-44M - 200 m Butterfly (LCM)

Coming from 50-34 / 11-25. Ran that at Whistler in 13. 170mm crank in both cases. New set up has 50T in front. My roadie is on Shimano and I have a Deore Mtb Rear mech I could instally and run 1x10 on that on my S2. I would probably go and get a NOS XTR 10sp rear mech though. I could do it before ITU in Cozumel and swap the rear mech for medium cage afterwards since I wouldn't need too many easy gears there. 11-25 or 11-26 would be more than enough on that course.

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___________________________________________
http://en.wikipedia.org/...eoesophageal_fistula
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cerebral_palsy
2020 National Masters Champion - M40-44 - 400m IM
Canadian Record Holder 35-39M & 40-44M - 200 m Butterfly (LCM)

How can you go from 11-36 to 1-25 without needing a different chain?


If I'm calculating correctly I see 50x36 as 92rpm @10mph, 83rpm @9mph, 74rpm @ 8mph, and descending from there. I average around 85rpm for a rolling IM/HIM and do best spinning up sub-10mph climbs in the 90s (big guy) so this might not work for me. I'll have to play around with the chainring sizes and see if something else might work.

Thanks for the info.

I bought a new chain. Thought that fact was self explanatory.

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___________________________________________
http://en.wikipedia.org/...eoesophageal_fistula
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cerebral_palsy
2020 National Masters Champion - M40-44 - 400m IM
Canadian Record Holder 35-39M & 40-44M - 200 m Butterfly (LCM)

My wife tells me to hold my tongue and let it slide off my back. But sometimes people just come off as such snobs that I can't stand it. There are some people here who haven't been very kind to people using doubles, while I am still using a triple! Why? Because my bike is old but still works, and there is nothing wrong with my Ultegra components that makes me want to spend money that I really don't have to get a new crank and derailleurs just to avoid being ostracized by snobby people. Want to make fun of me because I ride a triple? Go ahead. The problem is yours, not mine. I really don't care. Really. Now I'm sorry that this really doesn't have a lot to do with this thread, but neither did a lot of the "Why are you still using a double?" remarks. Please try to remember that not everyone is compelled to change components just for the sake of change (or to save what essentially amounts to a minimal amount of time in a race). Nor does everyone have the money to be doing so when what they have still works. Cheers.

You stayed 10 speed through all this? So same shifter?

Yes. The shifter in the sram 900tt (carbon one) .

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___________________________________________
http://en.wikipedia.org/...eoesophageal_fistula
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cerebral_palsy
2020 National Masters Champion - M40-44 - 400m IM
Canadian Record Holder 35-39M & 40-44M - 200 m Butterfly (LCM)

And either one of these should work?

http://www.jensonusa.com/...e-21-Rear-Derailleur

http://www.jensonusa.com/...M786-Rear-Derailleur

Shifter and Rear mech have to match.

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___________________________________________
http://en.wikipedia.org/...eoesophageal_fistula
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cerebral_palsy
2020 National Masters Champion - M40-44 - 400m IM
Canadian Record Holder 35-39M & 40-44M - 200 m Butterfly (LCM)

Got it. Thanks for the help.

Wait, you got a 36T to work with the eTap derailleur? Wow that baby's got range. I struggled to get my ultegra di2 long-cage derailleur to work with a 36T dog.

Wolf Roth road link. No problem

So awesome. I have one and an XT 11-40 cassette that I want to give a shot on the Emonda you sold me. Currently 44x11-32 with Ultegra Di2. Looking to get a little more range on each end with a slightly larger front ring. We'll see how I like the jumps.

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/kj

http://kjmcawesome.tumblr.com/

Exactly. Wanted to keep the top end as much as possible with the 50t ring I have.

Remember when front derailleurs were a thing....
Here's what the TT bike looks like right now and both the cross bike (42T front) and road (52T) are set up with Force1 as well (thanks Sram ;)

The answer to your first question, is yes.....I'm tall.

anyone have issues with shifting to the higher gear and chain falling off chainring?

I didn't take the comment as snobby. I think it was meant as- you don't need a triple anymore with newer gear. Frankly, my 9 speed was fine by me. Now we have 10, now 11. I'm sure the bike industry will push 12 by the time we all fully accept 11 speed.

On a different note, I have single speed, double ring, and 1x10 mountain bikes. I ride what I want to, not what is "better". They are just different, not better. If your triple works for you- rock that shit. Ultegra will last forever, it's a great groupo. When you get a different bike someday, we all eventually do- then decide what route is best for you. For me- I have not gone single in front on road and I have no desire to. Until I ride and never use my small ring, I want it to keep it!

12 speed. That's ridiculous. I have an idea that will blow 12 speed out of the water. 13 speed!!!

Don't laugh too hard! I bet it will be a 13 speed internal shifting hub too!

How about this?

https://www.sram.com/sram/urban/family/dd3-pulse


It's automatic!!!

That electrical tape on the front wheel looks a more then a little tired. Also The Zipp decals are clearly not aligned. Com'on brah!

Here's my 1x Shiv.
More pics HERE
(shameless plug that it's up for sale in the classifieds)

wtf?

Greg made me do it,

[/img][/img]

Wolf tooth road link makes it work perfectly. No issues at all.

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wovebike.com | Wove on instagram

Couldn't resist zachboring's awesome etap deal. Sram etap 1x with 48 chainring and 11-32t shimano 105 cassette. The rear derailleur clears the 32t.

Wow. Absolutely beautiful.

Bravo. Bravo.

Duuuuhhhhhhh-ayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy-uuuuuummmmmmmmmmmm...........

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"When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro."
Hunter S. Thompson

Are those the new Zipp evo extensions?

Unlike some of you, I'm on a budget. :-)

Specialized trispokes not shown...

https://flic.kr/p/K1b42Z

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Swimming Workout of the Day:

Favourite Swim Sets:

2020 National Masters Champion - M50-54 - 50m Butterfly

nice ride! which chainring?

It's a Dura Ace track crankset that I pulled off my Cannondale fixie. Cannondale chainring

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Swimming Workout of the Day:

Favourite Swim Sets:

2020 National Masters Champion - M50-54 - 50m Butterfly

Anybody tried the new Easton crankset? Looks like a perfect setup for this.

Falco V with 1X big ring. Runs flawlessly.

My 1x crankset is ready for the Omni frame to arrive. I've got most of the parts for an etap build. Has anyone found the etap extension end clics in stock anywhere yet?

That looks incredible!!!

astig, that P5 is gorgeous. Any feedback on 1x etap after riding it over the summer?

I wish this was my 1X!

It was awesome. Very simple setting up and my gearing was enough for rolling terrain. Not one chain drop.

@Clutch. How about a full bike shot?

Love these old school builds that are still fast.

Awesome, but you really need the bottle on that beauty.

Or a custom filler box at least. That little FD nub is not made to see the wind on it's own.

How do you like that Enve base bar? Do you feel like you have a solid grip on it? Can you take a picture of your hands on the "bull horns" or whatever you want to call them? I'm guessing your pinky and ring finger prevent your hand from sliding forward while your middle and index fingers actuate the brake lever? Can you tilt the pads?

Agreed on the NUB but a PITA to get off that frame. I still have to remove mine on my older P2C

Not exactly what I meant. The bike is faster with a bottle there than with the whole thing removed.

Which fork is that?

which bottle?

Funda

Elite.

Are the FD blips just for symmetry?

One for up and one for down. together they change the FD.

FD?

just put the 32t on there and adjusted your b screw? Nothing else needed? I'd like to have a 30 or 32t on my p5 etap but didnt want to go that route because the 28t max SRAM states.

Why would they state 28 if a 32 fits? Unique to the P5 frame that allows it to fit?

In the process of building mine. I went with the 50t SRAM Sync and currently have an Ultegra RD SS that can handle up to a 28t rear cassette. Anyone have any experience with the 50t and 11-28, and was it enough, or should I upgrade to the 11-32 and get a new RD? I live in Colorado, but don't do a lot of climbing on this bike.

I run a SRAM Xsync 50t with an 11-28 rear cassette. On some of the steeper climbs I could use another gear or two but for most riding it's great.

I've had good results using a Wolf's Tooth Road Link. http://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/...on/products/roadlink
I got my SRAM RD from a 28t max to 36t. You could easily do a 11-32t cassette.

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Oui, mais pas de femme toute de suite (yes, but I am not ready for a woman straight away) -Stephen Roche's reply when asked whether he was okay after collapsing at the finish in the La Plagne stage of the 1987 Tour

Is that a P5-6 front end on a P3? That is definitely a one -off

I actually got the idea from zachboring. He has a thread on here called the P3-6 and even took it a step further by using the interface with tririg brakes. It was a fun, but expensive, project.

I have a 50 with an 11-28. I haven't ridden many climbs but I really like it. Debating whether or not to stick with the 1x next year or go back to my 52/36 since I will be doing some hillier races. But love the ease of the set up after one season!

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https://flic.kr/p/MZbq88

48t QX1 with 11-28 at the moment, am going to put an XO clutch deraileur and XX 11-36 to make it pretty much same range as previous 53/39 QXL (curiously the difference between 53 and 48 up front is less than 53 and 11 vs 12t out back).
https://flic.kr/p/MZbqaT

I have put the ring on the inside of chainring, which leaves little room between chainring ans chainstay but a much better chainline.

I had underestimated just how much more I change gear now, and how many changes are on the bull bar - not going back!