I’m just about to order a set of wheels. Despite the insane money, I think Zipp 606s. And then the daunting question hit me… clinchers or tubs? I haven’t paid any attention at all to the debate lately, not really even caring. Suddenly I care.
Is there really any reason to consider tubular? I’m not fast, never will be. I’ll be a 2:30 half-IM split someday, maybe, but think I can do more like 2:45 now. If that matters.
I have clinchers on which I’ll train.
Tubulars are not for “fast people only.” I like tubies because I think they ride more comfortably, are less likely to flat (since you can’t pinch flat), are faster to change if you practice a bit (although it’s probably really a wash. Some people are crazy fast changing clinchers, and some tubulars can be a bitch to change).
The argument for clinchers is obvious. They are easier for most people to change. If you flat, you just change the tube, and don’t need a whole new tire.
Speedwise, I don’t think you’d notice a difference anyway. Provided you either practiced mounting and learned to do it well or had a reputable bike shop do it, the speed of each tire will be close.
There is no “right” answer to this question. It’s like “boxers or briefs?” “beer or wine?” … EVERYONE has an OPINION, but none is necessarily right.
To help, reasons NOT to get tubulars:
Reasons NOT to get clinchers
Reason to get Zipp clinchers; you can ride them every day! I’ve had mine for about three and a half years, ride them full time, and love every minute of it. Since you haven’t been following the debate I’ll fill you in; according to the debaters clinchers have lower rolling resistance and in field tests are faster. Clinchers Rule!
Why ride an $1800(or so) wheelset every day?
Why ride an $1800(or so) wheelset every day?
Why ride them at all?
they look really cool.
I love my 404 tubulars - light, quick, and if you do it right, you can get them pretty cheap. I got my front on eBay for $300, rear was built by a local builder for around $700. The lady that smashed in to me with her toyota paid for them…
There’s a nice summary above…
My 2 cents is over design. If buying Zipps (a carbon structure), I’d steer you towards tubular.
If buying clincher aero rims (metal breaking surface), perhaps chose a comestic capped model.
I thought Zipp recommended special pads even for their clincher rims.
Put me squarely in the tubular camp, I even train on tubulars.
Flat resistence is reason 1, I have only once flatted on a tubular and I have flatted too many times to count on clinchers. I may have just been lucky but the concesus seems to be that tubulars experience fewer flats, and they are extremely hard to pinch flat.
Reason 2 I think they are easier to change in a race. Though as previously mentioned others will argue clichers are easier. This may have something to do with the fact that I train on tubulars.
Reason 3, feel. I really like the “feel” of tubulars as well, though I imagine a high quality clincher would have similar feel.
They recommend them, because the Zipp pads work better on aluminum rims than most pads. They are not neccessary for aluminum rims as they are for carbon, where the aluminum shards in your pads could ruin a carbon braking surface. Plus having a set of “race-only” pads means you will always have clean, fresh pads for race day.
I could ask "why spend $1800 for bicycle wheels just to hang them in the garage and use them only once a month at best". As clinchers, Zipps are very tough wheels and I don't see any reason not to use them all the time. I had them serviced last year, there was a tiny wiggle in the rear one and the bearings were repacked. They are great wheels and I don't want to ride on something lesser while these area hanging in the garage. I also have a Renn 575 and I wish I could use it more, but that only gets used for certain races. I feel silly riding around town with the disc, but sometimes I do it anyway, what the heck, it's mine I should use it.
And, I didn't pay even close to $1800 for the 404's. I got them new in the box for $650 including shipping and a set of Verstein Fortenza's from a french pro who was selling off sponsorship goods at the end of the season. Nice deal, huh?
Aztec, just train more. Save your money.
My Opinion:
Zipp Tubulars = light, nice looking
Zipp Clinchers = heavy, ugly
I have 606 tubular race wheels. They are my first tubs and gluing them was no problem at all.
Also note: I had my first flat in a year on my clincher training wheels yesterday… pinch flat… what a big surprise.
It has been about 3 years since I tried to mount tire on a 404 clincher… never again. That was the tightest fit I have seen. We the wheels had the aluminum braking surface warp sent them back to Zipp and replaced them with tubulars.
Hed3’s almost killed me. I mounted Veloflex Records, which are high pressure 19mm tires… I almost died. Hardest workout during the taper week was mounting those tires for the race. I MUCH prefer mounting tubulars… A little glue mess, but my fingers don’t hurt so much…
well put.
Clinchers on a carbon wheel is sacrilege… It’s wrong, it’s not normal, a debasement it’s…it’s… it’s just plain wrong - don’t do it!!
The (very expensive) zipp brake pads are designed to resist the heat from the special zipp braking surface. Some (but not all) normal brake pads can’t withstand the temperature and you get a horrible melting smell and a severe reduction in brake pad life. Also, the zipps are supposed to take the heat away from the rim and prevent it from overheating - not sure why this is a problem (possible delamination of the braking surface maybe?) Dura-ace brake pads seem to work OK. The Zipp pads work well on Al breaking surfaces also.