Race wheels will be Zipp training wheels undecided.
I want tubeless compatible and dont want to be locked into only running tubeless; from what I am understanding it very helpful to have a hooked rim still but zipp and a lot of companies are going away from the hooked rim.
I had a lot of fun researching wheels, wheel fit and frame compatibility while making the choice for my bike. There is a lot more to consider than I realized. Before you settle on which wheel set you want, verify what rim width your frame will accommodate and establish what your goals are. Looks like you have already decided that you want tubeless compatibility. Other things to decide are the tire widths that you want to run, wheel depth, and if you have rim brakes whether you want an aluminum braking surface (thus a faring type design) or are comfortable with carbon braking surface. Pay close attention to the internal rim width - it will dictate the tire width range that you can run but you need to be sure it will fit your frame and still allow 4mm clearance between tire and all frame members.
I ended up selecting Zipp 404/808 Firecrest carbon clincher rim brake set and bought a used set in excellent condition from Pros Closet. The lead time for new was 12 weeks. They are not tubeless compatible which is ok for the tri bike, for me. For trainers I have the Magic Cosmic Elite wheels that came stock with the bike.
I had to adjust the setback screws in the horizontal dropouts to allow clearance for a 25mm rear tire. Pretty simple.
Race wheels will be Zipp training wheels undecided.
I want tubeless compatible and dont want to be locked into only running tubeless; from what I am understanding it very helpful to have a hooked rim still but zipp and a lot of companies are going away from the hooked rim.
Please someone educated me on new zipp wheels!
As long as you are using compatible tubeless tires, there no reason (I don’t think) why you couldn’t run tubes in there full time.
To affirm the post above (Callin’s post), you can run innertubes in tubeless rims without issue. Think of these more like 2-way wheels (tubes or tubeless) than one or the other. Also consider that most new bikes with fancy tubeless-ready wheelset come with inner tubes installed from the manufacturer/dealer.
**What should be more relevant for you to consider is whether you buy a ‘hookless’ vs. ‘hooked’ rim (**hooked/Clincher is what we typically have). If this is a new concept to you, check out this description from light bicycle. As is relevant to you, the newer Zipp 303s wheelset is a hookless rim. Hookless rims have their advantages (reduced weight, some added rim strength).
But Hookless rims also come with two key constraints;
(1) Hookless requires that you run lower tire pressure (under ~73psi) that necessitates the use of wider tires (think >28mm). This may, or may not, be a problem for you. Check out the Zipp hookless tire compatibility chart.
(2) Hookless rims requires that your tires are constructed to better tolerances. Generally, you should only get tubeless ready tires for a hookless rim. On the flip side With typical hooked-tubless rims, you can run pretty much any clincher tire with an inner tube, and any tubeless-ready tire (set up tubeless or with inner tube)
If you want variety in tire choice, get a hooked tubeless wheelset.
Josh Portner (who worked at Zipp prior to the sale to SRAM) has done some podcasts on hookless and those are worth listening to. He isn’t a fan of hookless because there is very little margin for error on pressure. I think the only time to really worry is if you are on the heavier side and would normally inflate to close to the maximum pressure.
For myself, I am going to sit this first generation of hookless wheels and tires out. There are lots of great hooked wheels.
A couple years back on a post about Enve 4.5’s I expressed concern about going hookless. One of their reps was on here and said you can use a tube. The issue isn’t not being able to use tubes so much as needing a specific tire that works with hookless. So basically you can use a tubeless ready/compatible tire and choose to to either run it team tubeless or team tube inside. But you can’t (or at least shouldn’t) use a non-tubeless tire on them even with a tube
I think as above, the wider zipp wheels (303 & 404) are only compatible with tubeless tires designed for hookless rims. But also as said, you could run a tube in there.
The 808 and super 9 are still on narrow rims. Can run traditional clinchers in them or set them up tubeless
Josh Portner (who worked at Zipp prior to the sale to SRAM) has done some podcasts on hookless and those are worth listening to. He isn’t a fan of hookless because there is very little margin for error on pressure. I think the only time to really worry is if you are on the heavier side and would normally inflate to close to the maximum pressure.
For myself, I am going to sit this first generation of hookless wheels and tires out. There are lots of great hooked wheels.
Yea thats what I was talking about the manger at my LBS about and just what he was saying.
I think as above, the wider zipp wheels (303 & 404) are only compatible with tubeless tires designed for hookless rims. But also as said, you could run a tube in there.
The 808 and super 9 are still on narrow rims. Can run traditional clinchers in them or set them up tubeless
Makes sense, since still undecided on training wheels so not concerned about the 303/404… The new 808/858 and Super 9 are now hookless right?
I think as above, the wider zipp wheels (303 & 404) are only compatible with tubeless tires designed for hookless rims. But also as said, you could run a tube in there.
The 808 and super 9 are still on narrow rims. Can run traditional clinchers in them or set them up tubeless
Makes sense, since still undecided on training wheels so not concerned about the 303/404… The new 808/858 and Super 9 are now hookless right?
Nope. The existing 808/858/super 9 are all still hooked. Zipp hasn’t changed those wheels to hookless…. yet. Sounds like it will happen sometime this year (maybe around kona) according to slowman.
I think as above, the wider zipp wheels (303 & 404) are only compatible with tubeless tires designed for hookless rims. But also as said, you could run a tube in there.
The 808 and super 9 are still on narrow rims. Can run traditional clinchers in them or set them up tubeless
Makes sense, since still undecided on training wheels so not concerned about the 303/404… The new 808/858 and Super 9 are now hookless right?
No, I don’t think so unless I’m reading the specs wrong. They are tubeless compatible but not hookless.
I think as above, the wider zipp wheels (303 & 404) are only compatible with tubeless tires designed for hookless rims. But also as said, you could run a tube in there.
The 808 and super 9 are still on narrow rims. Can run traditional clinchers in them or set them up tubeless
Makes sense, since still undecided on training wheels so not concerned about the 303/404… The new 808/858 and Super 9 are now hookless right?
No, I don’t think so unless I’m reading the specs wrong. They are tubeless compatible but not hookless.
Ok got it everyone thanks for the help 858/super 9 for me for race wheels; unless someone has info I dont that there is a faster wheel combo on the new trek? This is going to be a expensive week… 2 wheels for my bike is going to coast more then 4 wheels for my car
I think as above, the wider zipp wheels (303 & 404) are only compatible with tubeless tires designed for hookless rims. But also as said, you could run a tube in there.
The 808 and super 9 are still on narrow rims. Can run traditional clinchers in them or set them up tubeless
I’m also in the market for a Super 9, but saw only the newest model as being “tubeless readyâ€. Can you run the 2010-2020 Super 9s tubeless with say a Conti 5000 TL (or 5000 S TR)? Everywhere I’ve seen only people mentioning running latex…
I do race with 858 NSW and Super 9 clincher wheels with rim brakes. I use 25mm GP5000 tires with Vittoria latex tubes. They are great and absolutely no complaints. One good thing is somehow, I can mount tires without using tools. So easy to remove and mount tires on both wheels.