my buddy has a set of 2007 zipp 404 tubulars he is going to sell me for $1200 .I’m wondering if 404s will really help that much on my tri bike.
would anyone recommend these for triathlons or should I look for something else?
I’m a little worried about the tubular wheels vs traditional clinchers…input anyone??? I’m leaning toward clincher but I can get a good deal on tubular.
Thanks
[reply…input anyone???
Thanks
The owner of the 404 wheels is not your buddy because it looks like he is trying to ripp you off with a high asking price.
I think $750-900 would be more like it… and then watch the rims CRACK!
Yes, I would agree with the others about the price. I train on clinchers and race on tubulars and I love them.
Depending on the condition of the rubber and if they have any extras $1200 is a tiny bit high if he is a good buddy, although I think the others are dreaming if they think they are getting dimpled 404’s for $750. Also remember tubulartires are about $100 a set.
That being said the 404 is about the most versitile wheel in the world and I ride tubies almost exclusively and love them. See if your buddy will celebrate the sale by paying for a couple rounds at the pub and you have yourself a pretty sweet set of wheels.
Yes they are dimp wheels and have very little milage on them. Also including the tires. I was checking on ebay and most 404s sell for around $1200.
The thing that worries about the tubular is getting a flat. It seems hard to change. And at mmost races it looks like it finishes the day for most people if the flat.
Actually, changing a flat on a tubular rim can be faster then changing a clincher flat.
I carry a small one sided razor blade in my pouch with a cardboard edge protector. If I flat, I cut the tubular, strip it off and put the new tore on in a matter of a minute or two. Quick easy and simple.
Granted, I don’t repair tubbies. I also add Stan’s to every tire and find that I rarely flat.
Actually, changing a flat on a tubular rim can be faster then changing a clincher flat.
I carry a small one sided razor blade in my pouch with a cardboard edge protector. If I flat, I cut the tubular, strip it off and put the new tore on in a matter of a minute or two. Quick easy and simple.
Granted, I don’t repair tubbies. I also add Stan’s to every tire and find that I rarely flat.
I repair tubs. With a little practice, glueing becomes easier. The secret is to stretch the tire on a rim for a day or two before attempting to glue. Also, a 4-hour wait between glue app’s is a good idea. I do two coats to the rim and three to the tire, and then mount the tire after the third coat of glue (i.e., a wet mount).
You can’t ride punctured clinchers on a clincher rim, but you you can ride tubs on a tubular rim after a puncture for quite a while. I rode the end of a time trial on a flatted rear tub rim/tire and still passed a few people recently.
And I agree with Fung: it’s faster to change a tub than a clincher, although you could lose the tub on a tight corner and be in trouble. Not recommended for crits. But if you’re just trying to get home or through a RR or ITT without sharp corners, changing the tub tire is way faster: you rip off the punctured tub, and put the replacement on.
And the ride on tubular tires is much, much better than with clinchers. Especially in cyclocross, but also on the road. No comparison.