Zipp NSW 858 hookless with Canyon Speedmax help/comfort me

Hello,

I have a new Canyon Speedmax with Zipp NSW 858 wheels, which are hookless I learned recently.
I didn’t payed much attention to it at first but now I’m getting a bit scared. In my previous bike I rode hooked rims and around an 8.0 bar (115psi).

Now with my new canyon and hookless zipps I should run way less tyre pressures. I now weigh 77kg (170 pounds)
Maximum PSI of the tyres is 72psi I think. So now I’m afraid of running to low pressure for my weight and speed needed or I am more afraid of blowing of the rims.
I have a 25mm schwalbe pro one in the front and a 28mm tyre in the back with both latex innertubes.
I should run 4.1 bar (60psi) in my rear tyre. WTF?

Anyone any experience with these rims already who can comfort my thougts? What if we hit some nasty bumpy asphalt/concrete road section or a pothole?
You may also link some descent articles or video’s. I don’t find good ones my self because I don’t see the forest through the trees anymore.

https://i.ibb.co/0YN2ZMk/Tyre-pressure.png

Tyre pressure.png

To start, at 115 psi on your old wheels you were running way too high a pressure. Lower would have been significantly faster.

Now you are on the opposite side of the spectrum and wondering if the recommended pressures are too low. Honestly the only way to know what is optimal is to test the wheel/tire combo on the surface you will be riding. The Silca and AeroCoach inflation guidelines would usually have something closer to (or above) the maximum safe pressure for hookless. So the dilemma is whether you should try a higher pressure.

From a safety perspective, the recommended pressures should give you plenty of safety margin because they are about 20% below the max of 74psi. The things to really worry about are whether errors in inflation can stack up. Your pump could be off by 5-10% and temperature changes could add +/- 5%, altitude changes a few more %. You could think you are at 70psi and be closer to 80. So get a reliable pump/guage (e.g., Silca).

So maybe the overall message is that hookless can be safe enough and fast (Pogacar races on hookless and it doesn’t seem to slow him down) and your bike will ride just fine sticking to the recommended pressures. The drawback will always be that the safety margin isn’t big enough to necessarily provide optimal Crr in all applications. Tri/TT on smooth surfaces on narrower tires is going to be an application where you might be tempted to fly too close to the sun.

Thanks Grumpier.mike. I appreciate the detailed post. Gonna take that into consideration and start with finding me a good pump and check out those Silca and Aerocoach guidelines.

More opinions and thoughts may be posted :wink:

I’ve never ridden hookless but it was a choice on my last bike build so I did a lot of research into it. There’s also some extensive threads here that have a bit of catastrophising but also good info.

115 was probably a nudge too high, but it depends on surface and tire width. The general range for most people is 90-100psi, but Silca tire pressure calc can give you a good estimate.

The inside rim width for those wheels is 23mm, so 25mm is that absolute minimum tire size allowable. From the Slowtwitch article that your graphic comes from it shows the max pressures as 70/62 for 25/28. If you run the max allowable pressure (presuming because of the wheel that this is road riding on a quality set of racing tires you’re losing somewhere around 5-10w in additional rolling resistance for the total system, as compared to the optimal psi. The rougher the road gets the less you lose.

There’s a possibility that the tire/rim interface rolls faster and is more aerodynamic, I’m not sold on this though. For all the industry pushing to sell people on tubeless an actual set of tests showing it’s faster or rolls better would do 90% of the work for them.

As far as the safety concerns I agree they’re overblown (pun intended). The type of impact that would cause a hookless to fail but wouldn’t cause a hooked to fail is such a tiny subset. >99% of the time you’re going to hit something that either leaves the system intact or blows any tire you’re riding.

I wouldn’t lose sleep over it. If it really brings you agony you can always sell the wheels on ebay and buy a different pair.

https://www.slowtwitch.com/Products/Things_that_Roll/Race_Wheels/Hookless_Rim_and_Tire_Compatibility_Update_8654.html

I’m as much against hookless as anybody else, but those are nice wheels and not worth getting rid of.

Set em up tubeless, ask a friend or a bike shop if you aren’t comfortable. Replace the 25 front with a 28, or maybe both with some 30s, and don’t run them past the recommended pressure.

Compared to the excessive pressures you’ve been running, ride quality will be amazing

You are much, much more likely to run into problems running at pressures too high vs too low.

Just follow the mfg instructions it will be awesome 😃

Did you actually read the link you posted? Tubes are totally fine clincher tires are not.

Nope, my bad. Tubes are fine

From the Slowtwitch article that your graphic comes from it shows the max pressures as 70/62 for 25/28. If you run the max allowable pressure (presuming because of the wheel that this is road riding on a quality set of racing tires you’re losing somewhere around 5-10w in additional rolling resistance for the total system, as compared to the optimal psi. The rougher the road gets the less you lose.

l

I don’t know what article you get those pressures from but they are wrong. The max pressures are 72.5.

I would also be interested in knowing where you get 5-10 watts from. I would expect 0-4 watts. 4 being perfect tarmac and 200 pound rider.

Set em up tubeless, ask a friend or a bike shop if you aren’t comfortable. Replace the 25 front with a 28, or maybe both with some 30s, and don’t run them past the recommended pressure.

+1 to this. SRAM even says these wheels are optimal for 28mm tubeless. Set them up that way, they’ll ride better and have more buffer below the max psi. Not to mention the advantage of sealant during a race.

for this wheel in my opinion best to 28mm tires front and rear, tubeless + hookless compatible, and almost all recent high performance tubeless tires in 28mm are hookless compliant. no innertubes. the wheels will work great for you. i’m riding 404 firecrest and 353 NSW, both hookless, and i don’t have any safety concern whatsoever. i do have high quality hooked bead wheels, but i keep coming back to these hookless zipps for my own use. i weigh exactly what you weigh. if you put 65psi in those tires that’s a pretty hard tire. when you combine 28mm with that wider (23mm inner bead with) rim the pressure required to make that tire a hard ride comes way down. only a guess on my part but i think certain experts who tell you the ideal race pressure for your system rely on a lot of assumptions and extrapolations, and have never actually hiked their legs over a bike with your wheel system and pedaled it.

as to the tire itself, were it me and if triathlon is the use case i would but a 28mm vittoria corsa pro on that wheel, front and rear. and 60ml of sealant. this is not the fastest tire in the universe (actually, the vittoria corsa pro speed is) but the corsa pro is plenty fast and is more likely to get you to the run. you are not going to lose 1 place in the race because you chose this tire instead of anything else. the goal is a fast but nearly flatproof tire that will get you to through the ride and to the run. ride for show, run for dough. the corsa pro is obviously a good tire as it is the tire used in the road stages of all 3 men’s grand tour winners, and while the corsa pro control is the tire vittoria made for cobbled classics almost all riders on vittoria chose the corsa pro because it was flatproof enough.

i don’t go above 60psi on a wheel/tire rig very similar to what you ride. on the one hand my roads are smooth. on the other hand where i live we get freeze cracks in the pavement. so, 65psi is fine until i go over a crack and if multiple cracks it’s jackhammer city. hence my 60psi. if you do choose a pair of these tires (or any tubeless tire in 28mm) put them on, pump them to 65psi, and please report back and tell us whether you thought you needed more air in them.

Great advice here. Gonna put front also on 28mm and gonna make them tubeless with sealant. Gonna try them out when the it is good weather here in Belgium. Gonna try to keep you all posted on tyre pressure and feeling.
Once again thx for the effort in reply’ing everybody !!!

if you put 65psi in those tires that’s a pretty hard tire. when you combine 28mm with that wider (23mm inner bead with) rim the pressure required to make that tire a hard ride comes way down. only a guess on my part but i think certain experts who tell you the ideal race pressure for your system rely on a lot of assumptions and extrapolations, and have never actually hiked their legs over a bike with your wheel system and pedaled it.
.

You are partially right. I have never put my leg over a bike with that wheel.

And now, after another 2 days of testing wheels at various pressures, I can confidently say I won’t. That is now 8 athletes : 4 cycling pros, 2 tri pros, 2 competitive AG triathletes. Everyone from 60-108kg.

Where you are wrong is assumptions and extrapolations are being made. It’s 100% data driven, Today we tested a competitive triathlete on a set of Cadex hookless 4 spoke wheels with Conti 5000/28. One of your favs, right ? At your prescribed pressure he is leaving speed on the table. We pushed our luck and had him test at 5.5Bar and below. Only a guess on my part but I suspect your calculations are without testing data other than your own ?

Our friend with the Cadex isn’t upset. He did say he’ll keep his hookless for training, get that nice plush sitting in a sofa feeling and get a Parcours hooked wheel for racing. He has a hooked Parcours disc wheel he can pair it with. I suspect some of the tri pros will have some nice wheels for sale :slight_smile:

if you put 65psi in those tires that’s a pretty hard tire. when you combine 28mm with that wider (23mm inner bead with) rim the pressure required to make that tire a hard ride comes way down. only a guess on my part but i think certain experts who tell you the ideal race pressure for your system rely on a lot of assumptions and extrapolations, and have never actually hiked their legs over a bike with your wheel system and pedaled it.
.

You are partially right. I have never put my leg over a bike with that wheel.

And now, after another 2 days of testing wheels at various pressures, I can confidently say I won’t. That is now 8 athletes : 4 cycling pros, 2 tri pros, 2 competitive AG triathletes. Everyone from 60-108kg.

Where you are wrong is assumptions and extrapolations are being made. It’s 100% data driven, Today we tested a competitive triathlete on a set of Cadex hookless 4 spoke wheels with Conti 5000/28. One of your favs, right ? At your prescribed pressure he is leaving speed on the table. We pushed our luck and had him test at 5.5Bar and below. Only a guess on my part but I suspect your calculations are without testing data other than your own ?

Our friend with the Cadex isn’t upset. He did say he’ll keep his hookless for training, get that nice plush sitting in a sofa feeling and get a Parcours hooked wheel for racing. He has a hooked Parcours disc wheel he can pair it with. I suspect some of the tri pros will have some nice wheels for sale :slight_smile:

i have no experience with a CADEX 4 spoke and have no opinion about it.

look, i have no doubt your testing is precise. what we don’t know is if it’s accurate. which it may well be. others (e.g., zipp) have numbers as well. also precise. also maybe not accurate. but it may well be.

From the Slowtwitch article that your graphic comes from it shows the max pressures as 70/62 for 25/28. If you run the max allowable pressure (presuming because of the wheel that this is road riding on a quality set of racing tires you’re losing somewhere around 5-10w in additional rolling resistance for the total system, as compared to the optimal psi. The rougher the road gets the less you lose.

l

I don’t know what article you get those pressures from but they are wrong. The max pressures are 72.5.

I would also be interested in knowing where you get 5-10 watts from. I would expect 0-4 watts. 4 being perfect tarmac and 200 pound rider.

1-Those pressures are from the article in the hyperlink that you cut out of the quote. The max pressure allowable usually goes down from 72psi as the tire gets wider or the rim gets narrower. I may have misread the graph and those may be reccomended pressures, not maximums, but I’m not sure.

2- A graph of tire losses on different surfaces. On triathlon-common roads the difference is ~5w from 70ish to optimal. 5w x 2 wheels = 10. You can overcome some of that by running a wider tire but then you mount aerodynamic losses.

Some people really like hookless and that’s totally okay. But for data-driven triathlon speed on the bike it is not the best. It’s on par with swapping out race tires for training tires.

https://www.slowtwitch.com/articles/images/5/184125-largest_SILCA_Crr_Data_Al_Morrison_Tom_Anhalt_Impedance_Rolling_Resistance.jpg

if you put 65psi in those tires that’s a pretty hard tire. when you combine 28mm with that wider (23mm inner bead with) rim the pressure required to make that tire a hard ride comes way down. only a guess on my part but i think certain experts who tell you the ideal race pressure for your system rely on a lot of assumptions and extrapolations, and have never actually hiked their legs over a bike with your wheel system and pedaled it.
.

You are partially right. I have never put my leg over a bike with that wheel.

And now, after another 2 days of testing wheels at various pressures, I can confidently say I won’t. That is now 8 athletes : 4 cycling pros, 2 tri pros, 2 competitive AG triathletes. Everyone from 60-108kg.

Where you are wrong is assumptions and extrapolations are being made. It’s 100% data driven, Today we tested a competitive triathlete on a set of Cadex hookless 4 spoke wheels with Conti 5000/28. One of your favs, right ? At your prescribed pressure he is leaving speed on the table. We pushed our luck and had him test at 5.5Bar and below. Only a guess on my part but I suspect your calculations are without testing data other than your own ?

Our friend with the Cadex isn’t upset. He did say he’ll keep his hookless for training, get that nice plush sitting in a sofa feeling and get a Parcours hooked wheel for racing. He has a hooked Parcours disc wheel he can pair it with. I suspect some of the tri pros will have some nice wheels for sale :slight_smile:

i have no experience with a CADEX 4 spoke and have no opinion about it.

look, i have no doubt your testing is precise. what we don’t know is if it’s accurate. which it may well be. others (e.g., zipp) have numbers as well. also precise. also maybe not accurate. but it may well be.

When comparing wheels in tests isn’t precision more important than accuracy? I don’t really care if the numbers say Tire 1 has 30w and Tire 2 has 28w, the takeaway is tire 2 is 2w faster.

One thing I’ve learned in this whole hookless thing is how unmalleable people are in their priorities, 100% guilty of it myself. I couldn’t care less about the ease of use, ride quality, marginal strength, etc. Will it get me to the finish line faster without putting me into poverty? That’s all that matters to me.

Tangent to the comparison made to disc brakes, they were def slower than rim brakes at first, but allowed advances in wheel and frame tech that made them faster. Will the same pattern happen with hookless? Maybe. Smarter people than me are surely working on extracting gains.

i can see where this is going, and i’d like to head this off at the pass before things get testy. you and marcag stipulate to a particular set of data. marcag also, of course, generates his own data and he’s a groundbreaker in aero sensor development.

zipp doesn’t focus on what’s more aero damned the consequences. the thing they preach is “total system efficiency”, which is just what’s faster. they believe - and they hang their hat on their own data - that aero + Crr = a faster system available and that’s what they make. this actually should prove out in the kind of testing marcag performs.

because they are a company it’s okay on the internet to bash their data, ascribe to them base motives, accuse them of publishing selective data, harsh on their protocols and so on. but if any individual‘s data is challenged, them’s fightin’ words. below the belt. how dare you! that’s just how these threads go.

you can state as unchallenged fact what you believe. just be ready to get a post like this that reminds readers that what you state is not fact. it is the result of data that you choose to believe. those companies that make hookless wheels have their own data that shows otherwise. they believe their data is factual. i don’t take a position because i don’t have the background sufficient to know who is right. at least not yet.

From the Slowtwitch article that your graphic comes from it shows the max pressures as 70/62 for 25/28. If you run the max allowable pressure (presuming because of the wheel that this is road riding on a quality set of racing tires you’re losing somewhere around 5-10w in additional rolling resistance for the total system, as compared to the optimal psi. The rougher the road gets the less you lose.

l

I don’t know what article you get those pressures from but they are wrong. The max pressures are 72.5.

I would also be interested in knowing where you get 5-10 watts from. I would expect 0-4 watts. 4 being perfect tarmac and 200 pound rider.

1-Those pressures are from the article in the hyperlink that you cut out of the quote. The max pressure allowable usually goes down from 72psi as the tire gets wider or the rim gets narrower. I may have misread the graph and those may be reccomended pressures, not maximums, but I’m not sure.

2- A graph of tire losses on different surfaces. On triathlon-common roads the difference is ~5w from 70ish to optimal. 5w x 2 wheels = 10. You can overcome some of that by running a wider tire but then you mount aerodynamic losses.

Some people really like hookless and that’s totally okay. But for data-driven triathlon speed on the bike it is not the best. It’s on par with swapping out race tires for training tires.

https://www.slowtwitch.com/articles/images/5/184125-largest_SILCA_Crr_Data_Al_Morrison_Tom_Anhalt_Impedance_Rolling_Resistance.jpg

Slightly off topic, but the rough-road data doesn’t seem like anything beyond loosely qualitative without a standardized mass-spring-damper system that represents some human absorbing transmitted vibrations. As it stands, this data may represent the “mininum cost” but it would be optimistic in how high the pressures should be.

I personally wouldn’t want to run those wheels with tubes unless I flatted and needed to limp home. For the fastest setup on those wheels, put on 28mm tires.

i can see where this is going, and i’d like to head this off at the pass before things get testy. you and marcag stipulate to a particular set of data. marcag also, of course, generates his own data and he’s a groundbreaker in aero sensor development.

zipp doesn’t focus on what’s more aero damned the consequences. the thing they preach is “total system efficiency”, which is just what’s faster. they believe - and they hang their hat on their own data - that aero + Crr = a faster system available and that’s what they make. this actually should prove out in the kind of testing marcag performs.

because they are a company it’s okay on the internet to bash their data, ascribe to them base motives, accuse them of publishing selective data, harsh on their protocols and so on. but if any individual‘s data is challenged, them’s fightin’ words. below the belt. how dare you! that’s just how these threads go.

you can state as unchallenged fact what you believe. just be ready to get a post like this that reminds readers that what you state is not fact. it is the result of data that you choose to believe. those companies that make hookless wheels have their own data that shows otherwise. they believe their data is factual. i don’t take a position because i don’t have the background sufficient to know who is right. at least not yet.

I actually 100% agree with you on this. Apologies if I come across as testy, just passionate, promise.

In my view the beauty of these discussions is you can have different viewpoints argued vehemently, many of which will be fleshed out in testing relatively quickly. If Zipp’s claims of total system efficiency are true were going to see that replicated independently. Right now we can make educated guesses about how much savings/losses are incurred with a system. IMO it’s a stretch to assert that any system with 72psi max could be made faster than the current best (at pro triathlon conditions). If it’s proven to be faster I’ll adopt it and use it. Speed above all, for me.

As far as individual’s data goes, there’s plenty of junk. There’s one individual in particular who posits a lot of N=1 true for me is true for everybody things. A smart reader looks for a preponderance of opinion and data on one direction. Everybody agrees the Continental GP5000 is a great tire, in all tests the RR, puncture resistance and price put it near the top of everyone’s list, for example.

Everybody comes on and argues their opinions, and since sport is a more objective measure the best choices generally rise to the top. Anti vax and the sort argue their case and it only affects 1% of them, so the loudest voices win out. Arguments for running keto, round tubes, butyl tubes, etc are found to be failing. The “common wisdom” is constantly updated by race results and testing data.

Not staying my opinion as undisputed fact. Putting my current opinion on the boards based on the most robust data I can find in furtherance of discussion where we can all learn, prove, or be proven wrong.

I’m gonna do my own tests. With blackjack and hookless :slight_smile:

Gonna run tubeless setup, 28mm tyres. I think front and back can be the same PSI? Or always a few (2-3spi) less in the front?

Why does Canyon sell the bike with a 25mm front tyre and run it with latex innertubes?

Anyone good advice for a electronic tyre pump?