Zipp/HED wide rim: ideal tire pressure

On the official website, HED suggest to lower tire pressure by 11% (see below). Anybody know if this acheive optimal result in term of performance (optimal rolling resistance)???


Q. Dear Mr. Hedtech, how much PSI should I run in my C2 rims?

A. Our wider C2 rims should be run at AT LEAST 11% lower pressure than you would use in the same tires on a 19mm rim. I weigh 165 lbs and run 22mm tires at 80-90 psi. Because the C2 rim is wider, your tire’s air volume is greater than it would be on a 19mm rim and PSI needs to decrease.

Excessive pressure will do two things:

  • Compress the rim slightly and decrease spoke tension
  • Harden the tire to such a degree that it no longer has the small amount of flex that it would have at a lower pressure or on a narrower rim. The flex is both lateral and vertical. In the case of the wheel rubbing the brakes or frame, lateral flex is what we are concerned with. As frames and wheels have gotten stiffer and stiffer over the past decade, torsional force on a bike has gotten more noticeable.

Could be great to have information from representative of those company…

This one is so complicated…largely because most of the physics involving tires are non-linear, and that there are solid benefits to both higher and lower pressures depending on what the rider deems critical or risky. So my answer for this question is that the wider bead width rims allow you to run lower pressure, but certainly don’t require it. The advantages to the wider bead stance come from the larger air volume increasing the energy required to pinch flat the tube in an impact, and from the lateral stiffening of the tire casing due to the wider bead. This lateral stiffening reduces lateral squirm and deflections under cornering loads which people generally talk about as feeling more ‘direct’, I’ve talked with some customers who don’t like this, and for them, we lower the pressure, and i’ve never had an unhappy customer from that solution! For the people who like the tighter handling, bonus! And lots of others end up in between.

Of these advantages, the air volume is one that brings added flexibility to your decision making, you can either take the added pinch flat/impact resistance at the prior pressure, or reduce pressure and take advantage of the greater comfort and what will likely be better grip at the same impact resistance…or some combination thereof. The steering/handling related pieces of this are interesting in that tires of different shapes, sizes and rubber compounds all respond differently, so it’s hard to set a fixed rule. Generally, the shorter and wider contact patch makes the bike feel more lively under you as there is less resistance to steering inputs, in some cases and for some riders this can feel ‘twitchy’ or less stable because a shorter/wider contact patch has ability to damp/resist steering inputs than a longer narrower contact patch…in this case a lower tire pressure goes a long way in restoring the feel of the narrower rim. (Milliken and Milliken have written extensively about all of this regarding racecars and if you are into it, I highly recommend their book Racecar Vehicle Dynamics)

Ultimately, the tire guys generally recommend pressures based on some combination of load sensitivity of the tire, handling, tire longevity and impact resistance relative to tire volume. For our Tangente tire, the pressures on the box come from studies done by Vittoria and are an attempt to give some guidelines relative to rider weight and discipline. For example, we advocate running balanced pressures for triathlon where weight distribution is generally closer to 50/50 and running staggered pressures in road where the weight is biased to the rear. this doesn’t mean that balanced pressures on the road don’t work, just that there may be something to gain by running slightly higher rear pressure, mainly, impact resistance.

Personally, I run my wheels 90-100psi with 23mm tires regardless of tire type or rim width. The wider clincher rims definitely provide better cornering feel at these pressures, I’ve never pinch flatted any of them, so hard to say on that front what it’s doing for me, and I really love the comfort on our crappy Indiana roads.

Lastly, taking a page from auto racing, and what we have done with our pro team partners, the real question regarding tire pressure really should involve the road surface. there is real benefit in both handling, comfort, tire durability, and cornering performance to tailoring tire pressure to road surface. What I really like about the increased air volume of the wider rim, is that it gives you additional room to play with this variable at a lower overall risk for your event. if it rains and you want to run 80psi for maximum grip, then you can do it without driving yourself mad worrying about impacting something. if the road surfaces are clean and smooth (or you’re on the track), then you can run higher pressure…the choice is really up to what ‘feels’ right and what you are comfortable with. Our teams have all developed some pretty awesome course notes over the last few years which we use to help riders of different weights to choose tire pressures, we also have quite a few riders keeping notes on what they like in terms of tire pressures so they have a better chance of getting it right in key events. I would suggest the same for everybody. In a few weeks you can do dozens of tests playing with small increments and get a real feeling for what you like/don’t like, it really makes for a nice tool in your tool box, especially when things don’t go as planned… race course way rougher than you thought and now it’s raining? No worries, I know exactly what 84psi on poor roads feels like…you get the idea.

Have fun
Josh

Would I need to reduce the pressure to remain at optimum rolling resistance, if that was all I cared about?

Depends on the surface…
Rougher surface with a lower (relative) pressure would provide lower rolling resistance
Smoother surface with a higher (relative) pressure would provide lower rolling resistance

As Josh puts it very well, experiment on a variety or surfaces and conditions and keep notes.

I have been playing with tyre pressures 5yrs now;
23mm tyre stnd rim clincher FR / RR
23mm tyre wide rim clincher (HED Ardennes) FR / RR
25mm tyre wide rim clincher (HED Ardennes)FR / RR

22mm tyre on tubular wide rim (HED Stinger) FR / RR
22mm tyre on tubular standard rim (Gigantex R50t) FR / RR
25mm tyre on tubular wide rim (HED Stinger) FR / RR
25mm tyre on tubular wide rim (Bontraget Aeolus D3) FR / RR

I now have pressures for;
standard (nominal)
course (in the hills & bush)
smooth (coastline)
wet adjustment factor for each of the above

wasn’t done analy, just took note of ride pressure and feeling and made a note…

Biggest learnings have been optimal pressures were lower in all instances than I had traditionally run i.e. 120psi etc
Front and rear are certainly different for road use
Pressure has a far bigger in fluence on the range of feel of the tyre than the brand / make / model of tyre…
Wider / larger volume tyres have proven to be a superior perfomance package in all applications for me in my environment and for the riding I do…
i.e. progresing from;
Clinchers
19mm 1993
21mm 1994
23mm 2001 to date Current favorite

Tubular
21mm 1996
22mm 2005 to date
24mm 2008 to date
25mm 2010 to date Current favorite

For reference and anyone who cares I am 79kg in kit, for road / road race run;
clincher 23mm wide rim 95FR 105RR psi (nominal)
tubular 25mm wide rim (HED or Bonty) 100FR / 110RR (nominal)

Most folks I ride with now are finally starting to go to wide rim through either HED, Bontrager or Zipp.
I gave up recommending the format to them about 2 years ago… from going blue in the face.
Not one that has changed wants to run their older 19-20mm wide rims anymore…

Draw your own conclusions I guess…

…Biggest learnings have been optimal pressures were lower in all instances than I had traditionally run i.e. 120psi etc…
…Wider / larger volume tyres have proven to be a superior perfomance package in all applications for me in my environment and for the riding I do…
…For reference and anyone who cares I am 79kg in kit, for road / road race run;
clincher 23mm wide rim 95FR 105RR psi (nominal)
tubular 25mm wide rim (HED or Bonty) 100FR / 110RR (nominal)…

Thanks for the info. Did you determine your “optimal” pressure with 19mm rims vs 23mm? I’m guessing that “optimal” isn’t referring to Crr, but ride quality and handling… yes? Is that also your criteria for “superior performance”? Because lowering pressure will increase Crr… and if you need to lower pressure with the wide rims and bigger tires to reduce vibration, you will have greater resistance.

Yes, but I don’t have an easy way in Austin Texas to measure CRR reliably with a power meter. Usually too windy!

And the answer to my question doesn’t really depend on road surface, as my question is this:

Assuming I have a normal, narrow wheel, and I have optimized the pressure for rolling resistance, on a given road.

Now I move to a wider rim, on the same road, with the same tire. Will the new optimal pressure be lower, or the same?

I usually run around 110psi, but now that many of my wheels are super wide, I’m wondering if I should be dropping down to 100psi.

Depends on the surface…
Rougher surface with a lower (relative) pressure would provide lower rolling resistance
Smoother surface with a higher (relative) pressure would provide lower rolling resistance

As Josh puts it very well, experiment on a variety or surfaces and conditions and keep notes.

I have been playing with tyre pressures 5yrs now;
23mm tyre stnd rim clincher FR / RR
23mm tyre wide rim clincher (HED Ardennes) FR / RR
25mm tyre wide rim clincher (HED Ardennes)FR / RR

22mm tyre on tubular wide rim (HED Stinger) FR / RR
22mm tyre on tubular standard rim (Gigantex R50t) FR / RR
25mm tyre on tubular wide rim (HED Stinger) FR / RR
25mm tyre on tubular wide rim (Bontraget Aeolus D3) FR / RR

I now have pressures for;
standard (nominal)
course (in the hills & bush)
smooth (coastline)
wet adjustment factor for each of the above

wasn’t done analy, just took note of ride pressure and feeling and made a note…

Biggest learnings have been optimal pressures were lower in all instances than I had traditionally run i.e. 120psi etc
Front and rear are certainly different for road use
Pressure has a far bigger in fluence on the range of feel of the tyre than the brand / make / model of tyre…
Wider / larger volume tyres have proven to be a superior perfomance package in all applications for me in my environment and for the riding I do…
i.e. progresing from;
Clinchers
19mm 1993
21mm 1994
23mm 2001 to date Current favorite

Tubular
21mm 1996
22mm 2005 to date
24mm 2008 to date
25mm 2010 to date Current favorite

For reference and anyone who cares I am 79kg in kit, for road / road race run;
clincher 23mm wide rim 95FR 105RR psi (nominal)
tubular 25mm wide rim (HED or Bonty) 100FR / 110RR (nominal)

Most folks I ride with now are finally starting to go to wide rim through either HED, Bontrager or Zipp.
I gave up recommending the format to them about 2 years ago… from going blue in the face.
Not one that has changed wants to run their older 19-20mm wide rims anymore…

Draw your own conclusions I guess…

Most folks I ride with now are finally starting to go to wide rim through either HED, Bontrager or Zipp.
I gave up recommending the format to them about 2 years ago… from going blue in the face.
Not one that has changed wants to run their older 19-20mm wide rims anymore

Draw your own conclusions I guess…

OK…I’ve ridden and tested wide rims and tires and I STILL race TTs on my narrow Jet 90s with narrow tires. Why? Because MY conclusion (based on testing) is that they’re faster and they are no less easy to handle nor any less “robust”.

Josh, can we come up with a term besides “increased air volume” to describe the benefit you’re expounding on above? Technically speaking, it’s not the absolute increase in air volume that makes the difference, but instead it’s the change in the tire cross-sectional radius and the bead spacing.

I just think that pointing to it as “increased air volume” just leads to confusion over cause and effect…

+1.
I own both wide and narrow and notice no substantive difference between them. I would happily stay narrow in cases where it is faster.

For TTs it would be ideal to have new rim shapes scaled down for 20mm tires… but I can understand the market forces supporting “wide” rims.

For TTs it would be ideal to have new rim shapes scaled down for 20mm tires… but I can understand the market forces supporting “wide” rims.

yep, for road racing, I’m totally on board with the idea. I think the zipp 808/404 are a nice balance actually. You can run 21mm tires on them, which would be fine for a lot of road races for most people too.

Really great comments and I think I can add some detail.

Tom A. you are right, the term ‘increased air volume’ has been used in terribly misleading ways…this is much the same that wide rim formats are now being equated with ‘stability’…and this is further muddled by the difference between a wide rim and a wide bead seat on a clincher, which may be on the same rim, but may also be mutually exclusive of each other. for instance the original 808 was launched at 27mm wide but only 21mm at the brake track. it definitely fits the bill for ‘wide’ and was (for the time period) a rather stable handling wheel, but we just didn’t have the techniques or thought process to design for stability yet, and we were dealing with riders wanting 21mm tires, bike companies shrink wrapping chainstays, and brakes that wouldn’t open past 28mm in most cases…so the hurdles to overcome to acheive Firecrest were considerably and were not limited to issues within any single company.

Ultimately the ‘increased air volume’ benefit is purely limited to the zone of the tire between the road and the rim. Wider tires also have larger diameters, so they keep the rim further from the ground, which is beneficial in pinch flat situations. widening the stance of the tire increases the cross sectional area of the tire and requires more energy for an impacting object to effectively reach the rim.

As for wide rims in general, deep rims need width in order to have curvature…the curvature is how we control and manipulate the airflow… look at 90mm deep rims of today with V and U shapes…they are comparable to 45 and 60mm toroidal and Firecrest shaped rims. The wide tire bead format is a slightly different story which came from touring rims and was more a result of the assumption that you would be riding wider tires. if we were all still running 19mm tires it is unlikely 16-17c clinchers would be in vogue…largely because the ETRTO specifically states that 19-20mm tires cannot be used with 17c rims for safety reasons. so with the assumption that people were choosing 23-25mm tires, the wider bead seat began to make sense. This was very similar to the progression of tubular rims. In 2004 we launched the 27mm wide 808 with a tire well designed for a 21mm tire. This was the direct result of a 2002 wind tunnel test I attended with Lance, Postal, Trek, John Cobb and others where the 3 spoke wheels were all being tested with 19mm tires and the team was talking about Bruyneel’s mandate of a 21mm minimum for safety reasons… I took the lesson back and began redesigning all the Zipp stuff around 21mm tires instead of the 19mm we had used for the previous 10 years. In 2006 we began designing our tubular tire wells from laser scans of actual inflated tires. when we did the original Super-Toroidal 303 as the first carbon Pave wheel in 2008, we optimized the tire well around 25-28mm tires as tires that wide don’t glue well onto small radius tire wells…and found that tire disbond forces were much higher due to the better interface between the rim and tire… since you have to design around some width of tire, you might as well design around the most likely one…though that doesn’t mean the others are inferior.

Having said all of that, there is a lot of baggage and misleading banter about ‘increased air volume rims and tires’. For one, you can measure the change in contact patch, but we have never been able to measure a decrease in rolling resistance. If it’s there, it is in the noise of the various test equipment options, we’ve never seen it, and I don’t know of anybody who has data showing it to be true…and at that, if it were true, it is would technically be the shorter/wider contact patch (and the larger effective casing radius) to credit and not the additional air volume…so Tom is right, all the talk about air volume is confusing at best, though without writing a paragraph every time, I’m not sure how we change the language to make it more clear.

Secondly, wider bead seat really has nothing to do with wheel stability from a bike handling point of view…it changes pneumatic trail, it changes lateral squirm and slip angle for a given pressure, but it isn’t inherently any more ‘stable’…though that term is generally lacking definition. It is amazing how quickly this notion has spread through everybody’s marketing and into the media, and I think there has been some amazing power of suggestion happening as pretty much every new wide rim has to make stability claims, and everybody generally seems to be buying in. I can argue that the shorter wider contact patch is slightly less stable due to the reduced resistance to steering inputs by the contact patch…this is why many riders feel the need to reduce pressures to regain the steering response they are used to.

The stability we talk about with Firecrest is based on aerodynamic stability where we have designed the aerodynamic center of pressure to be very near the steering axis, and to only move a very tiny amount with yaw angle changes…essentially the wind is pushing the wheel around with the tiniest possible lever arm compared to other designs. The thing that the wide rim and wide tire bed help here is that they allow the designed shape of the wheel to work with wider tires and all narrower options, whereas with narrower tire beds, the aero properties of the wheel change dramatically beyond a certain tire size. I’m not throwing this is an a plug for product, but just to say that is our definition of ‘stability’ and it is not a direct result of a wider tire bed, but the wider tire bed does make it more applicable across a wider range of tire choices.

Lastly, we hear frequently about designing for narrow tires, but to that I say try 20’s on your Firecrest rims…it’s smoking fast, and since the rim is so wide it can clean up the dirty air off of the tire at even higher yaw angles, so the stall angle of the wheel is very high. the only place you pay for the rim width is near 0 degrees, where the added frontal area of the system remains similar to when the rim has a 21 or 23mm tire…but past that, it is very, very fast. Lemme go find some data…

Josh

Depends on the surface…

Yes, but the original table factored that in with: “Rain or rough Roads Minus 2-4 psi Front, Minus 3-5 psi Rear”

As Josh puts it very well, experiment on a variety or surfaces and conditions and keep notes.

Notes on what? How the ride felt? That doesn’t tell me whether the pressure I chose was optimal or not. If my “felt good” is not calibrated with “optimal Crr” then aren’t the notes useless?

I have been running about 100 psi in my Hed Jets with 23mm Conti GP4000s tires. They are very comfortable, even on rough chip seal roads, and my race times are good.

matto I wrote… “optimal performance”… i said nothing of measureable Crr…

Optimal erformance for me means; Ride, Road holding, handling, grip, comfort… and somehwere down the list might be rolling resistance…

Re notes… of course subjective… its a bike ride not a science experiment… is it “useless”… not to me, i now know what pressure to run to get the fatsest ride on all the surfaces…

fastest is not soley contributed to by Crr, if you can’t hold the road, make a corner, break confidently, then you’ll loose alot more time than incremental loss due to a relative diff in Crr…

For you mate, do whatever you want, the OP asked a question re pressues guys were running and I gave some info on my experience re factors important to me…

have a blinder mate…

OP asked a question re pressues guys were running and I gave some info on my experience re factors important to me.

Ah, your comments were to the OP… sorry. Your “in reply to” references Jackmott’s post that said “Would I need to reduce the pressure to remain at optimum rolling resistance, if that was all I cared about?” and I thought you were replying to that question.

Josh, thanks for the explanation. As I am used to running 23mm tires on 19mm rims anyway…did you run any tests with the wider rims and 25mm tires? What might be your opinion on the aero-penalty and potential crr tradeoff if any that might occur with this combination or is it all downside?

Lastly, we hear frequently about designing for narrow tires, but to that I say try 20’s on your Firecrest rims…it’s smoking fast, and since the rim is so wide it can clean up the dirty air off of the tire at even higher yaw angles, so the stall angle of the wheel is very high. the only place you pay for the rim width is near 0 degrees, where the added frontal area of the system remains similar to when the rim has a 21 or 23mm tire…but past that, it is very, very fast. Lemme go find some data…

I, for one, would love to see that data…especially if it includes narrow tires on narrow rims :slight_smile:

Now then, on the subject of wheel depth and width…aren’t higher A/R shapes in general “better” (aerodynamically speaking) from a drag standpoint? So, wouldn’t it make sense that for the REALLY fast guys (who naturally don’t experience very high yaw angles) to run narrow and deep setups?

Oh yeah…so it’s Bruyneel who we have to blame for all this, huh?..I knew it. I’ll now forever say his name just like Jerry Seinfeld says “Neumman!” :wink:

some courses have no appreciable corners, at which point CRR is about all that matters.

matto I wrote… “optimal performance”… i said nothing of measureable Crr…

Optimal erformance for me means; Ride, Road holding, handling, grip, comfort… and somehwere down the list might be rolling resistance…

Re notes… of course subjective… its a bike ride not a science experiment… is it “useless”… not to me, i now know what pressure to run to get the fatsest ride on all the surfaces…

fastest is not soley contributed to by Crr, if you can’t hold the road, make a corner, break confidently, then you’ll loose alot more time than incremental loss due to a relative diff in Crr…

For you mate, do whatever you want, the OP asked a question re pressues guys were running and I gave some info on my experience re factors important to me…

have a blinder mate…