Im considering buying a 3001 from a buddy but Im concerned about using it for training also since it has a huge sticker saying for competition use only. Is this because its fragile or just marketing hype?
I’m on my 3rd and 4th Zipp 2001’s. I had the first 2 for many years but like an idiot I sold them. About 2 years ago I found 2 brand new, still in the original boxes, Zipp 2001’s. I use them everyday!! One for training and one for racing. They are setup exactly the same. I do all my own work on them. I’ve built 4 of them from the ground up.
My only recommendation is to change the cables every 6 months whether its needed or not. I rebuild mine at least once per year.
I’ve ridden, Kestrel 200Sci, Trek 2300 and 5200, Cannondale 2.8 x2 and Caad4, Softride SE7 and a custom Tiemeyer TT, and nothing compares to a Zipp 2001.
Thanks man. Ive been struggling with the decision to get this bike. Im going from a softride se7 to this and hope it will be as kind to my back as the softride was.
I think the concern may be the amount of flex centered around the bottom bracket. These bikes flex a lot. I’ve NEVER heard of one failing. I’ve had mine over 10 years, and I bought it used. I don’t do a ton of training on it, but I typically do my long rides on it during IM prep because it has the exact geometry of my Kuota, which is my new TT bike (the Zipp my still be the fastest bike out there on the flats, but it’s a bit of a pig. I think mine is 22.5 pounds stripped). I wouldn’t worry about training on it, although it’s no fun to lug up hills.
The bolt on the top of the beam adjusts the compression on the elastomar. I adjust it all the way to the bottom, so I get zero bounce.
I live in Sedona with lots of mountains. I train thousands of feet in altitude change everyday. I really don’t notice much difference compared to my Trek 5200 which is 4 pounds lighter. Now, If I do an 8000 ft climb, I ride the Trek : )
Thought you might like these. I no longer have the HED3d. I sold it and bought a Renn. I also don’t have the yellow Zipp 3000 wheels. They were 7 speed and tubular. Arizona and tubular don’t mix…too many thorns from cacti sitting around.
I bought mine about a year ago and unless it’s crappy weather or a group ride, I take the Zipp.
Listen to STer zipp, he knows what he’s talking about. Couple things, yes it’s a heavy bike, and unless you’ve got a more creative bike shop than I do, don’t count on running compact cranks. The front deraillur bottoms out on the chainstays IIRC.
After looking at zipp’s pics, I need to break out the 999’s and show you some proper wheels!
Hammy…have you lowered the front der. clamp post? I’ve not had that problem but I only use a 53-34 chainrings, not full on compact cranks. The 53-34 works great for the mountains here. My race bike is setup with the 54-39 (or a 54-42 if its really flat). Oh, and the RC’s are awesome!!
What do mean “real wheels”. Whats wrong with mine??? : (
Paul,
Yes we lowered the clamp but I remember the bottom of the derailluer cage hitting the chainstay. I actually thought it might go but the shop seemed to think it would shift poorly. Since I know jack about bikes I took their word. They got a new mechanic who really really good so maybe I should go see again. But I was going 50-34, isn’t 53-34 a huge jump? Do you have to run a long cage rear?
As to the wheels, I really liked the Hed3d, why did you sell it? Still pretty fly setup, I’m just glad I got proper wheels for cheap. Plus the disc makes the bike look complete.
I’ve got a 3001, and it is fine to train + race on. Like a Ferrari, they require a bit of extra attention (and I would get whatever needs done on it (changing out the headset/fork/cable guides) done now as there is only one guy who does this work & I can’t see him doing it forever. They ain’t making anymore parts for these things.
I also disagree with the flexy post re the BB–I think it is one of the stiffer bikes I’ve ridden in that regard, and I’m not exactly a small guy.
add me to the list of zipp owners. As soon as I can remember how to post pictures I’ll show you the new toy. Damn your beam is high! Thanks for all of your help.
Hammy…I was always told to limit the tooth difference to 15, but since I live in the mountains I needed the 34 and a 53 (for going downhill). The der. is an older model 8 speed DA. As soon as I got it adjusted it works perfectly. The only thing I have to watch are really fast down shift to the small ring. The chain has a tendancy to bounce. Other then that it works just fine.
My bike is the large frame, large beam, 700c, the largest they made. The beam is maxed out. I have a 36" inseam. The bb to seat rails is set at 32 1/4 ".
I’ve NEVER heard of one failing.
I have. In fact, I was warned by a Zipp afficianado (to the point that he got kicked off the Project 96 team for advocating that USA Cycling just buy a bunch of Zipp frames and rebadge them as GTs, vs. spending tons of $$ reinventing the wheel in the form of the SBII) to carefully inspect any used Zipp X001 frame for cracks, especially around the b.b./chainstays.
I really liked my old Zipp 2001…wish I still had it!
Andrew,
Thanks for that! Did you see any cracks? The pain is so thick on these babies that I wondered if they would even show up. It’s always worried me since there is so much flex, but until your post hadn’t heard of a failure. I’ll keep my eyes open.
Andrew,
Thanks for that! Did you see any cracks? The pain is so thick on these babies that I wondered if they would even show up. It’s always worried me since there is so much flex, but until your post hadn’t heard of a failure. I’ll keep my eyes open.
To be more specific: my friend bought a Zipp 2001 off of Ebay, only to discover that one of the chainstays was cracked (on the underside, IIRC). He returned it to the seller, then bought and later sold a different one. A few years later I was considering getting one myself, and he warned me to carefully inspect any frame before purchasing. As it turned out, though, I was never able to find one in the size I was seeking (small frame, large beam, 700C wheels).
As stated before, I’ve had a total of 4 of them. The first was an older demo model from a bike shop, the second was purchased from a guy in Australia (I was in Fl at the time), and the other 2 were purchased brand new about 2 years ago still in the original boxes. I’ve not had any failures (well except for the seat clamp bolts and I solved that one on my own). I’ve ridden them thousands and thousands of miles over the past 8 years without one frame problem. I find the bb area as stiff any most bikes I’ve ridden. Now I will say that if the frame is crashed (which I’ve done once) you ought to be looking for cracks…and then you may find something just as with any bike frame.
heres a pic of the new steed. Since i have a mac you will probably have to click a link
Nice ride. Large frame/Small beam 700c. Just be sure you change out the cables every 6 months.
Another tip: The front der. cable comes out of the frame smack in front of the rear wheel. ALL the grime, water and junk comes off the rear wheel and goes straight into the front der. cable exit hole. Put something over the hole to prevent this. The guy at Zipp recommended a simple piece of electrical tape with a hole poked thru for the cable. I use a mtn bike cable noodle. I thread the cable through the noodle before the cable connects to the der. Sometimes I’ll clamp something to the cable above the noodle to keep the noodle compressed at the hole. Get it?
Even then when I thread the new cable lots of griime comes out of the hole with the new cable. I keep running the cable out the der. hole, then clean it, pull it forward and then back out again, clean it…repeat until it comes out the front der. hole clean. Its about $400 to get new cable routes done by Zipp. New cables and time are cheaper.
Be careful of the seat clamp bolts. If the bolt heads are above the seat rails, the exposed bottom of the bolt is REVERSE thread! I’ve already made that booboo.
If you need anything, or have questions, please feel free to ask. Not too many of these great frames left out there.