On my to-do list for this month is getting my rear 808 ugpraded to 11 speed. Picked up a 11 speed freehub body for cheap, and while doing some research during the process of installing it learned that there’s a whole kit for this with a different axle, end cap, and subsequent redish. Oops. The kit typically runs at about $190 online, or $225 for the complete service from wheelbuilder.com plus shipping both ways. I did manage to find the kit for about $150 at a smaller retailer and planned on doing that myself, then having LBS mess with the spokes to center the hub.
However, I recently discovered a seller on eBay selling a direct conversion kit with an aftermarket freehub body, no new axle or further adjustments required. It’s just $90 and patience for the overseas shipping. I assume the Zipp kit has more parts simply because that’s what it takes to reuse the existing 11 speed freehub body design instead of one that is measured out for a straight conversion replacement. Additionally, it’s also compatible with the even older V6 hubs.
A few weeks ago I did this conversion with the Zipp kit on a Zipp 808.
Zipp gives you a new axle that slightly moves the hub to give more space to the wider 11sp freehub-body. So you need to redish the wheel, because post-conversion the rim will be slightly off-center.
I don’t exactly know about the ebay offer because I have never tried this. I believe there is a trick to machine the 10sp freehub-body making space for the wider 11sp cassettes.
Alternatively you could consider using a Campagnolo 11sp free hub body.
If there is any possibility I would go with what Zipp recommends.
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On my to-do list for this month is getting my rear 808 ugpraded to 11 speed. Picked up a 11 speed freehub body for cheap, and while doing some research during the process of installing it learned that there’s a whole kit for this with a different axle, end cap, and subsequent redish. Oops. The kit typically runs at about $190 online, or $225 for the complete service from wheelbuilder.com plus shipping both ways. I did manage to find the kit for about $150 at a smaller retailer and planned on doing that myself, then having LBS mess with the spokes to center the hub.
However, I recently discovered a seller on eBay selling a direct conversion kit with an aftermarket freehub body, no new axle or further adjustments required. It’s just $90 and patience for the overseas shipping. I assume the Zipp kit has more parts simply because that’s what it takes to reuse the existing 11 speed freehub body design instead of one that is measured out for a straight conversion replacement. Additionally, it’s also compatible with the even older V6 hubs.
I’m aware of that option, looking to just have it work as-is without modifying cassettes.
I guess my main concern is a lack of understanding on the technical aspects of how the rim/spokes/hub interact, or wheelbuilding in general. With the existing hub, does the kit+redish have some tensioning/balance aspect that keeps things within tolerance, aside from just centering it afterwards? I know Zipp has had trouble with their hubs in the past. As much as I’d like to save ~$70 or more over the OEM solution I’d rather not have any drastic effects under high load. I do road race/sprint with these on occasion.
I suppose that line of thought will end up making my decision for me unless advised otherwise, but I try to learn as much as possible along the way.
I guess my main concern is a lack of understanding on the technical aspects of how the rim/spokes/hub interact, or wheelbuilding in general. With the existing hub, does the kit+redish have some tensioning/balance aspect that keeps things within tolerance, aside from just centering it afterwards? I know Zipp has had trouble with their hubs in the past. As much as I’d like to save ~$70 or more over the OEM solution I’d rather not have any drastic effects under high load. I do road race/sprint with these on occasion.
I suppose that line of thought will end up making my decision for me unless advised otherwise, but I try to learn as much as possible along the way.
The spoke tensions should remain the same pre and post redishing. A LBS would check with a tension meter.
I guess my main concern is a lack of understanding on the technical aspects of how the rim/spokes/hub interact, or wheelbuilding in general. With the existing hub, does the kit+redish have some tensioning/balance aspect that keeps things within tolerance, aside from just centering it afterwards? I know Zipp has had trouble with their hubs in the past. As much as I’d like to save ~$70 or more over the OEM solution I’d rather not have any drastic effects under high load. I do road race/sprint with these on occasion.
I suppose that line of thought will end up making my decision for me unless advised otherwise, but I try to learn as much as possible along the way.
The spoke tensions should remain the same pre and post redishing. A LBS would check with a tension meter.
Perhaps this is the part I was missing when trying to visualize the process. So both sides are adjusted, and there’s no net change as the hub is recentered?
I’m probably just overthinking it, as usual. The effect I’m expressing concern about would be absolutely minimal, it’s a shift of <2mm and only represents an actual change at the end of the cassette, the rest is overlapped with the existing.
And why would you get a 11-34 cassette for a Zipp 808 wheel outside a 1x setup?
To solve the original poster’s problem for about $80 - or -
Average 60+ man/woman AG doing a hilly to mountainous triathlon
Just about anyone racing Triple T Ohio
Not everyone that owns aero wheels is a super-biker.
Yeah, 11-34t would really be excessive for me, even with 1x and a dinner plate (detrimentally, at that point, as tooth counts are so widely spaced). I race mostly in FL so would rarely use anything approaching a bailout gear.
I guess my main concern is a lack of understanding on the technical aspects of how the rim/spokes/hub interact, or wheelbuilding in general. With the existing hub, does the kit+redish have some tensioning/balance aspect that keeps things within tolerance, aside from just centering it afterwards? I know Zipp has had trouble with their hubs in the past. As much as I’d like to save ~$70 or more over the OEM solution I’d rather not have any drastic effects under high load. I do road race/sprint with these on occasion.
I suppose that line of thought will end up making my decision for me unless advised otherwise, but I try to learn as much as possible along the way.
The spoke tensions should remain the same pre and post redishing. A LBS would check with a tension meter.
No, they wouldn’t remain the same tension. Any wheel builder would know that.
Some guy sells modified Ultegra 11 speed cassette’s on eBay. He does the machining for you (to fit 8/9/10s hubs)and of course it’s a little more $ but not too much. Seems to be easier to buy that than any of the other options.