I recently picked up a new road bike with a SRAM drivetrain. I’m new to SRAM and looking to wax the chain (my other bikes are all Shimano with waxed Wipperman Connex chains).
I was about to pull the trigger on a 12spd YBN chain from Molten Speed Works. Then I was reading Zero Friction Cycling and saw that they strongly caution against using a 12spd YBN chain with a SRAM drivetrain:
“IT IS possible – and has been field tested by many – to run a YBN SLA 12 or KMC 12 chain on sram axs Flat top systems – despite these chains being a completely different standard – however at this time ZFC advice would be to be EXTREMELY careful. As the chain ring and cassette is machined for a thinner chain with larger rollers, to run a normal 11/128 standard chain – the components would appear to the chain to be very worn components. New chains on worn components can jump under load. Chains jumping under load can jump off chain ring / snap etc – and if you are in a stand up sprint when this happens, you are likely to experience a significant emotional event + injury.”
Anyone have experience or issues with a YBN chain on a SRAM AXS 12spd drivetrain? Are there other chains I should be looking at instead? Dylan Johnson’s chain efficiency video isn’t too flattering for the stock SRAM flattop chains…
You really need to run the flattop chain with that drivetrain. The AXS chains use a larger diameter roller which means that the cassette/rings have a larger trough between teeth. Using a traditional chain results in a bit of slop that leads to poorer quality shifting as well as increased wear on the cassette and rings and depending on what level you have, the cassettes can be insanely expensive.
I know that there are people on the internet who are doing it, and it does ‘work’ but having done it myself with DA chain on RedAXS I can tell you that the shifting is less than optimal making some weird noises in the smaller cogs and the accelerated wear will really make it not worthwhile in the long run.
We race prep Force level AXS chains as does Ceramicspeed, either will be within half a watt of the YBN from MSW.
Josh, would this be the case if you ran the sram derailleurs with shimano chainrings and cassette and swapped out the pulley wheels on the rear D? Based on my understanding that solves the larger trough issue.
I’ve been wondering about doing a pulley swap as well and just going full shimano for anything with teeth. What pulley wheels were you eyeing for the axs RD? Been trying to figure out which will work.
I’m a chain waxer and use the YBN 12 speed chain with my AXS Force RD. I run the Kogel OSPW and a 1x 54t Stone aero chainring. I use a non-SRAM 11-30 cassette since I have a Shimano hub on my wheel.
Yes the YBN works just fine for me. No chain jumping or anything like that, zero drops, etc.
You really need to run the flattop chain with that drivetrain. The AXS chains use a larger diameter roller which means that the cassette/rings have a larger trough between teeth. Using a traditional chain results in a bit of slop that leads to poorer quality shifting as well as increased wear on the cassette and rings and depending on what level you have, the cassettes can be insanely expensive.
I know that there are people on the internet who are doing it, and it does ‘work’ but having done it myself with DA chain on RedAXS I can tell you that the shifting is less than optimal making some weird noises in the smaller cogs and the accelerated wear will really make it not worthwhile in the long run.
We race prep Force level AXS chains as does Ceramicspeed, either will be within half a watt of the YBN from MSW.
Josh what’s the reasoning behind not offering SRAM Red AXS race prepped chains?
You really need to run the flattop chain with that drivetrain. The AXS chains use a larger diameter roller which means that the cassette/rings have a larger trough between teeth. Using a traditional chain results in a bit of slop that leads to poorer quality shifting as well as increased wear on the cassette and rings and depending on what level you have, the cassettes can be insanely expensive.
I know that there are people on the internet who are doing it, and it does ‘work’ but having done it myself with DA chain on RedAXS I can tell you that the shifting is less than optimal making some weird noises in the smaller cogs and the accelerated wear will really make it not worthwhile in the long run.
We race prep Force level AXS chains as does Ceramicspeed, either will be within half a watt of the YBN from MSW.
Thanks Josh!
What kind of quick link do you use or recommend for a 12spd Force AXS chain? SRAM AXS PowerLock?
The Connex links have been fantastic but I can’t seem to find their 12spd Connex link for sale. The YBN link explicitly says it’s not compatible with SRAM AXS road. Without a quick link I’m much less likely to take my chain off to hot wax it, and I’m much more likely to do so with a quick link.
Yes, use SRAM AXS quick links with those chains… I know they say only one use, but we typically get quite a few uses from them before they feel ‘soft’ when re-installing them and need to be replaced, oh wait, I mean ‘always do what the manufacturer recommends’.
For the prior questions about running AXS without any of the rings/cogs, then yes, the issue here is between the chain roller diameter and trough geometry between teeth on rings and cogs. If you’re changing all of that out for Shimano or something else, then yes, use the parts that are designed for compatibility with those parts.