Wrench question: Dura Ace bar end rear shifter not working

Howdy,

So I recently replaced my extensions. I took the rear Shimano Dura Ace bar end shifter (SL-BS78, 10 speed) off of the old bar end (on which it was working), I thought I was being very careful not to let it even come apart, and installed it on the new extension. However, now I only have about 4 1/2 gears of index shifting, and there is a slight side to side play in the lever. Since then I have taken the shifter apart and put it back together a dozen times, and the same results every time. I’m pretty sure I have that little washer in correctly, but not absolute about anything since it obviously doesn’t work. Any ideas what I screwed up on?

Thanks!

With the cable disconnected from the RD how many clicks does it have as you move the shift lever?

Styrrell

As mentioned

tests:

  1. disconnect and count clicks on the shifter, should be 9 clicks. If there are 9 clicks, it ain’t the shifter : )
  2. Be sure you install the cable when the shifter is pushed all the way down in the 12 or 11, which ever is your smallest, cog setting and the rear der is automaticallly in the small cog, too. If your shifter is not in the same cog click as your rear der, it’ll be all messed up when you try and shift.

Did that make sense?

Thank you both. I have taken the cable out, and same thing. I get 4 clicks only. I did install the cable with the rear der on my smallest cog (12 tooth), so cable is not the problem. It feels/looks like the shifter is going all the way forward to the small cogs no problem, but stops when I try to pull the lever up (towards bigger cogs). It’s not a solid stop, but more what the lever normally feels like at the max gear, where you can still pull it a little, but there is no more gear for it to click into.

Sounds like the lever is on wrong. I haven’t done a bar end, but the downtube shifters have a cam mechanism inside of them. Make sure it’s not rotated 1/4 or 1/2 turn.

Yep, your shift lever is the problem. You put it back together wrong.

Thank you again all. I will take it apart and keep playing with it. Good to know it’s just a fixable error and not permanently damaged.

(PS: 596 - I’m jealous of you. I’m currently working grave shift in your former profession of 22 years. Though I love the night shift, after the last month or so a nice little Inn in Sedona sounds very appealing. I’m 7 years, 3 months, and 3 bad days away from that being a consideration).

In 22 years think I worked grave yard for about 6 months!! All the rest was either day or evening shift. Midnights and I never got along, I hated it.

It sounds like you are heading in the right direction. I do not have a pair here as they went when I sold the previous bike. However, looking at a pair of Shimano compatibles that I have on my current bike and thinking through the sequence my thought is that you should try the following assuming that you are running the indexed rear mech shifter on the right extension as would be expected:

From the right side of the bike with the chain on the small rear cog undo the the centre screw for the shifter lever and gently pull the lever away from the removable backing plate that provides the click stops.

The small round removable backplate (part no 2 on the rear shifter diagram) sits on the small square raised part of the casting that goes on the end of your extensions. From you description, it sounds like you will need to (when looking from the right side of the bike) rotate the round removable part 1/4 turn anti-clockwise and then put it back on the square location thing. (See the 2nd page of the install guide, point 3 for the correct alignment)

Re-assemble the shifter making sure the lever is in the fully rotated forward position for the small cog.

Warning.
****As the parts seem to have got out of sequence please be very careful when tightening the fixing screw and if anything feels wrong do not overtighten.

For reference, Shimano have a free to use library of tech specs and maintenance documents, you know, the paper sheet we all throw away after the bike is built :o) See links for the 2 sheets relating to 10sp 7800 DuraAce bar ends.

http://techdocs.shimano.com/...6577569830609202.pdf

http://techdocs.shimano.com/...6577569830605258.pdf

good luck!

… Re-assemble the shifter making sure the lever is in the fully rotated forward position for the small cog…

Winner! Winner! And great explanation.

I found my problem. I had assembled the shifter and all of it’s pieces correctly, however, when I attached it to the mount, I had it turned the wrong way. So essentially my shifter was going through the top 5 speeds, then couldn’t shift any lower because it physically hit the mount. It looked like it was mounted for the smaller cogs, but was actually shifted a quarter turn or whatever.

Once I figured out the problem, it was one of the quicker and easier fixes I have encountered. Next up is adjusting the damned rear der to shift smoothly. That always seems to take me forever with stops every few miles for final little adjustments.

Thanks everyone!

Well done! :o)

Here’s the rear mech set up guide from the Shimano pages

http://techdocs.shimano.com/...6577569830612494.pdf

The way I work on that is:

  1. With the lever in the position for the small cog and the cable adjuster set as slack and loose as you can get it ( you can even pop the outer from the rear chain stay for doing this bit) set the mech alignment as per **point 1 **of Stroke adjustment and cable securing

  2. Check that you have the cable secured correctly in the clamp. I always think that looks opposite to the obvious.

  3. With the cable in place and the shifter in the position for the big cog check the mech alignment as per **point 3 **of Stroke adjustment and cable securing. When you do this part make sure to put a little additional tension on the cable to check the end stop position of the mech. This will ensure that cable adjustment in the future is not able to overthrow the chain into the spokes.

  4. And lastly follow the section 5 to then play around and get the cable adjustment correct until it runs quiet and changes cleanly.

So the sequence is Small cog mech endstop, Big cog mech endstop, Cable adjustment.

It’s one of those things that once you familiarise yourself with can get you and any riding buddies out a spot if you are away from home as doesn’t it always happen at the furthest point! Many people simply panic and start messing with the endstop screws, randomly spinning the cable adjuster and get in a hell of a mess. This will potentially earn you a whole lot of mid ride coffees and post ride beers in the future! Woo Hoo!