The wireless 2.4GHz models start at $1000 MSRP and go (way) up from there.
Besides having the ugly wires on my bike, are there any compelling reasons to not save the money and buy the wired COMP?
Many people like that you can use various computers with the wireless models. But, why is that? Is there anything “wrong” with the stock PowerTap computer?
there’s nothing wrong with it if you’re on a budget.
i hide all my wires with sheets of protectant film,
they don’t get dinged, snagged and they stay out of the wind.
I have seriously thought of buying one for my second bike. It isn’t pretty and it isn’t the most aero, but it is probably the most economical value for training.
There’s nothing wrong with it. When I bought mine a couple of years ago I also bought a couple of harnesses that I had wired onto my tribike, crossbike, and roadbike. I have a beefy rim. Works great for training, I’ve never raced with it because if you teach your body what your power output is, you won’t overcook on the bike while racing. I could probably afford wireless, but I can’t justify it. Your data won’t be any better without the wires and the aero difference is probably miniscule. Of course, it’s not as cool and on one of the bikes, the shop did a lousy job running the wires so I redid it. If you’re on a budget, save the extra bucks.
Do any of you guys have pics of your installation you could post? I’m trying to get a handle on where the cadence sensor and “sharkfin” are installed and how to best handle the wiring.
go with the wireless. Ihave a wired model on my 4 year old PC3. The wire harness has broken 2X—the wires are very small/delicate. The wires look untidy and the tape holding them on looks like shxx. During long races I look at them and it is an instant downer—how could I have lasted as long as this with such an untidy setup. After IMFL I plan to send it in to be replaced with the wireless model. The only thing that has slowed me down is wondering if I should switch to Quarg
I have a wired model (going on 3 years) and it has been reliable, although I have broken one harness (To be fair it was on an
ill-advised, impromptu Cyclocross interval though a pasture ) . I have a harness on my road and tri bike and swap the wheel back and forth.
If I had it to do over again I’d go wireless for the flexibility and ‘sano’ installation. The new Garmin and other computers will only add cool
features going forward - that alone argues for the Wireless models.
I bought mine as a ‘training’ wheel, but quickly became so used to riding with Power that I wanted to race with it…now I have a heavy
32 spoke wheel that I race on, that gets even heavier with the Wheelbuilder cover.
Figure on a wheel you will want to race and train on…invest in a higher end rim build and get the disc cover for race day.
Where are you seeing this price? Is this the whole system? My five year old ergomo died and I’m already missing the power on occasions when I need/used it. Now THAT cable system was big and annonying, but still not a big deal. After recently doing a PM test to see how weight affected speed (it didn’t–five extra pounds made no difference on a 10K course with several rolling hills), I’m thinking that a solid PT wheel with a wheel cover is the way to go if you are on a budget.
I think all the new gps units are silly, so I’m all for finding a cheap wired version.
Chad
It includes everything except the wheel and HR strap. Reportedly, it will work with the newer Garmin HR straps, if you already have one of those, though.
On ebay I bought a new campy hub for under 600 with hr. I do not use hr but it was nice and still sealed in the box. Laced with a deep v and you have a bomb proof wheel. It was a 32h which most people do not like.
I have a wired PT. Wireless would be nice but it was $$$$ and I had $$. i bought a second wiring harness for my road bike. I have but don’t use the cadence sensor. the PT hub can figure out cadence without the sensor. You can use a garmin heart rate strap if you want. You just have to link them. I don’t use HR on bike since I have wattage.
I think i’ve done a good job of wrapping and taping the wire on both bikes. You’d be hard pressed at a glance to know its a wired PT.
I’ll take a couple pics of both bikes and email them to you.
Re your other post about spoke count. I think we’re about the same size…My FP60’s have 24 spokes and I haven’t had any issues. My PT wheel is a Mavic OP 32spoke. As big as you are, like me, you’ll probably always race with your cover (regardless of wind conditions) so I’d suggest you save your money and pass on the FP80. If you want a deeper wheel to race on or have a PT laced into I’ll sell you my FP60 rear since I don’t use it anymore.
I have a wired PT. Wireless would be nice but it was $$$$ and I had $$. i bought a second wiring harness for my road bike. I have but don’t use the cadence sensor. the PT hub can figure out cadence without the sensor. You can use a garmin heart rate strap if you want. You just have to link them. I don’t use HR on bike since I have wattage.
I think i’ve done a good job of wrapping and taping the wire on both bikes. You’d be hard pressed at a glance to know its a wired PT.
I’ll take a couple pics of both bikes and email them to you.
Re your other post about spoke count. I think we’re about the same size…My FP60’s have 24 spokes and I haven’t had any issues. My PT wheel is a Mavic OP 32spoke. As big as you are, like me, you’ll probably always race with your cover (regardless of wind conditions) so I’d suggest you save your money and pass on the FP80. If you want a deeper wheel to race on or have a PT laced into I’ll sell you my FP60 rear since I don’t use it anymore.