Noticed it while inspecting the bike pre-ride yesterday; the front and rear tires - both installed new at the same time - have worn very differently. The rear tire is nearing where I would consider replacing it and relegating it to the trainer pile, while the front tire still has the little factory rubber nubs (technical term).
Does everyone experience this? Anyone rotate tires as a consequence?
Rear tires need to provide the forward thrust to move you down the road. This wears the rubber more than the front tire which is always coasting.
The front usually lasts about twice as long as the rear. You can rotate your tires, but I buy three at a time and replace the rear twice as often.
Gotta cut down on coming to a skidding stop there! 
But no, never noticed the uneven wear on mine.
I’ll take weight distribution for $100 Alex.
Its totally normal- the fact that the rear tire is the “drive” tire means it is constantly “pushing back” as you pedal- this horizontal force slowly wears the rubber.
I thik rotating tires is a fine idea, i personally just discard the rear tires, rather than having a “thinner” tire on the front.
Weight distribution is a negligible contributer; it’s all about where the drive comes from. I used to ride a sporty-type motorcycle, and despite the rear tire being several times wider than the front, the front lasted twice as long.
Assuming no cuts, I usually move my front to the rear and replace the front with a new tire when the rear is kaput.
Rotating rear-to-front can be sketchy since you really want a reliable front tire; rear tire skids and flats can be ridden out of with some success, but if you lose the front in a fast turn you’re done. The rear usually get a flat spot worn down the middle; result is square “shoulders” that can make for lost grip in turns.
What is “Why does my rear tire wear faster than the front?” 
jaretj
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I vote for tire rotation, but I’m cheap when it comes to squeezing as much mileage out of a set of tires as possible. I attempt to keep track of ~500 mile intervals (albeit poorly) and swap accordingly.
Weight distribution is a negligible contributer; it’s all about where the drive comes from. I used to ride a sporty-type motorcycle, and despite the rear tire being several times wider than the front, the front lasted twice as long.
Assuming no cuts, I usually move my front to the rear and replace the front with a new tire when the rear is kaput.
Rotating rear-to-front can be sketchy since you really want a reliable front tire; rear tire skids and flats can be ridden out of with some success, but if you lose the front in a fast turn you’re done. The rear usually get a flat spot worn down the middle; result is square “shoulders” that can make for lost grip in turns.
TRUE…experienced that on a wet cement road last week. hadn’t even gotten into the ‘high lean’ part of the turn when it slid…
Stop using it on the trainer!
Weight distribution is a negligible contributer; it’s all about where the drive comes from. I used to ride a sporty-type motorcycle, and despite the rear tire being several times wider than the front, the front lasted twice as long.
I’m sure weight distribution is part of the equation, but motorcycle tires are a HUGE exaggeration for the propulsion argument… there’s a big difference between putting out 300 W through a bicycle wheel and putting out 75,000 watts (100 HP, typical of the way I rode my crotch rocket) through the rubber on a motorcycle tire.
like everyone says
its a factor of the weight distribution and the fact that the rear tire is the drive tire-
that being said- dont rotate the tires. while the front tire lasts longer- its also more important from a handling/braking stand point.
the majority of the ride, more weight lies on the rear tire- but during braking, weight is shifted towards the front- so you dont want to skimp on the front tire, in the event that you need to brake hard, and maintain control
you lose control of your front tire, you’re f’d. lose control of the rear tire- you still have a chance to save yourself.
The only type of tire rotation you want to do is once the rear tire is done but the front tire in the rear and a brand new tire in the front.
Fred.
The only type of tire rotation you want to do is once the rear tire is done but the front tire in the rear and a brand new tire in the front.
Fred.
Yep, I wouldn’t ever put a used rear tire on the front.
It’s not about weight distribution, eh?
Then how come the tires on the front of my AWD Subie wear faster than the tires on the back?
How come the tires on the front of my pickup wore faster than the tires on the back?
Obviously I live in Australia and the coriolis (sp?) effect is to blame.
erehp…simeh…nrehtron…ot…evom…tsuM
Yup. I also don’t like to take 'em right to the edge of their usable life, so whenever I feel the rear is too used for my liking, it gets moved to the trainer tire pile, and a new one gets put up front… usually once a season, or so… I have alot of tires hanging around, as I subscribed to that ‘new tires for big race’ theory a couple of times…
On the trainer I’ll ride 'em till the belts are showing through, tho…
Aside from engine weight, front tires usually wear faster on a car/truck due to the extra off-axis friction from steering. This isn’t an issue so much on a bike since the steering is affected much more by the angle of body lean, whereas a 4-wheel vehicle always remains essentially level by comparison so it’s all on the tires.
There was a post which discussed this and as I recall they referenced an article by Sheldon Brown that said not to rotate tires but to always keep the best tire on the front wheel.
What is “Why does my rear tire wear faster than the front?”
jaretj
thats not what your mother said lastnite trebeck… / sean connery impression.