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Rotor 3d+ goes in increments of 5mm down to 150, and will fit a bunch of power meters.
Quarq /sram have a 162.5
Rotor
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http://www.bikesmithdesign.com/Short_Cranks/
I ordered a set of 145mm sram compact from him and they look great. Any custom length you want.
Rotor is probably your best choice. 24mm direct swap for Shimano to boot.
Please explain why you think that they are optimal for your needs.
I have 155 Rotor 3D+.
Can you go square taper?
These have all sizes down to 130mm! I’ve used the 155s before…but that was a 1x
Not a fan of short cranks?
Can you go square taper?
These have all sizes down to 130mm! I’ve used the 155s before…but that was a 1x
My experience is that square taper BBs are superior to anything else.
I have custom square taper cranks in 150 and 160 sizes that I am willing to sell. Pm me if you’re interested.
Velo Orange has some good BBs, even a threadless square taper—works for any BB threading, even a frame with damaged threads.
https://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/components/bottom-brackets.html
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Rotor is probably your best choice. 24mm direct swap for Shimano to boot.
Does Rotor really make a 24mm spindle crank with shorter than 165mm arms? I just went through this exercise with my wife’s bike and could only find the 3D+ in sub 165mm.
Lightning
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Nope, not a fan. I think that there is an optimal crank length per individual, based on body shape/ leg to torso ratio/ flexibility etc, but the current trend of all riders looking for cranks smaller than we ever used to ride (ie sub 170) seems like a fad. I mean, why not try 120mm cranks and spin like a maniac…
Only 3d+ but plenty of folks make a bb to fit any crank to any bb (like hawk racing, or ceramicspeed or kogel)
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Nope, not a fan. I think that there is an optimal crank length per individual, based on body shape/ leg to torso ratio/ flexibility etc, but the current trend of all riders looking for cranks smaller than we ever used to ride (ie sub 170) seems like a fad. I mean, why not try 120mm cranks and spin like a maniac…
Lol, I actually tried 115mm for a short period of time. Long story though and was because my 145-165 range was broken on some Powercranks, but because of the adjustability I was able to use the 115 range while I waited for replacement parts.
Origin 8, if you can use a square taper bb
For the greatest variety of available lengths, and cheap to experiment, this is the way to go. Any shop that has access to J&B Importers will be able to get them.
(I can do that for you as well.)
Nope, not a fan. I think that there is an optimal crank length per individual, based on body shape/ leg to torso ratio/ flexibility etc, but the current trend of all riders looking for cranks smaller than we ever used to ride (ie sub 170) seems like a fad. I mean, why not try 120mm cranks and spin like a maniac…
Lol, I actually tried 115mm for a short period of time. Long story though and was because my 145-165 range was broken on some Powercranks, but because of the adjustability I was able to use the 115 range while I waited for replacement parts.
After learning about the idea of short cranks and reading Courtney Ogden’s article having won a pro Ironman on 145 I sent him an email asking for advice and he said best to work it out for yourself. He has done an IM on 115. Alas after starting when cycling on a tt bike with 177.5 I went to 170 on my first tri bike 5 years ago and then to 165 thinking how did I ever live without these. I got a set of Rotor 150 and found too short over a 70.3 (or I hadn’t conditioned enough) to keep the power on constantly and stressed my back. I ended up at 160 and thought how did I ever live without these and over time riding shorter cranks has bought my cadence down by about 15 rpm to low 80’s being able to utilise more degrees of rotation in my pedal stroke rather than closing off especially my hip flexors. The shorter cranks allow me to get down in a more aero position too and hip flexor issues are gone for the same average power output.
http://courtneyogden.com/winning-an-ironman-on-145mm-cranks/
Nope, not a fan. I think that there is an optimal crank length per individual, based on body shape/ leg to torso ratio/ flexibility etc, but the current trend of all riders looking for cranks smaller than we ever used to ride (ie sub 170) seems like a fad. I mean, why not try 120mm cranks and spin like a maniac…
Lol, I actually tried 115mm for a short period of time. Long story though and was because my 145-165 range was broken on some Powercranks, but because of the adjustability I was able to use the 115 range while I waited for replacement parts.
After learning about the idea of short cranks and reading Courtney Ogden’s article having won a pro Ironman on 145 I sent him an email asking for advice and he said best to work it out for yourself. He has done an IM on 115. Alas after starting when cycling on a tt bike with 177.5 I went to 170 on my first tri bike 5 years ago and then to 165 thinking how did I ever live without these. I got a set of Rotor 150 and found too short over a 70.3 (or I hadn’t conditioned enough) to keep the power on constantly and stressed my back. I ended up at 160 and thought how did I ever live without these and over time riding shorter cranks has bought my cadence down by about 15 rpm to low 80’s being able to utilise more degrees of rotation in my pedal stroke rather than closing off especially my hip flexors. The shorter cranks allow me to get down in a more aero position too and hip flexor issues are gone for the same average power output.
http://courtneyogden.com/winning-an-ironman-on-145mm-cranks/
I am on a 162.5 and have been on a 162.5-165 for most of the past 5 years. I have played around with a 170, 172.5, and even 175 to gain a better perspective and try some other things out. I have been on 165 on my road bike and MTB for years as well.