Any particular reason to choose one or the other? Obviously, I’m not looking for a super-bike. Mostly looking for something to let me get into a good position that doesn’t commit too many aero sins. But honestly, my current bike is a converted 1995 Cannondale road bike (with the fat, round, aluminum tubes) with clip-ons, forward seat-post, etc. So, the aero sins of any of the above are likely to be way less than my current make-do-solution.
One thought is to go the lowest cost route, and spend the savings on a high quality fit. The easy button is the Cervelo P1, but I’d probably have to settle for a DIY-fit for this season.
I’d avoid the transition frame. I own one, has issues (internal cabling recall), brakes are a real pain and so is the horizontal rear drop out screws if you change wheels a lot…
Well I will make your choice more complicated and recommend the Transition. It is clearly superior to the other choices by 5-15 watts. When it came out it was the fastest bike out there, knocking the P3 off it’s perch. Cervelo had to redesign the fork to get back to equivalent drag numbers. If you don’t believe the wattage difference check out Tom A’s comparison between the P3c and the aluminum P3. I am pretty sure that was 10 watts.
Braking probably depends on pad choice and rim material. Koolstop salmon pads on aluminum are good. If you don’t like the brakes, just replace with TriRigs. The mounting studs are same as the new dual mount standard. Nothing proprietary at all.
If you have problems with the internal cable routing just remember eTap makes cable routine totally irrelevant.
I’m picking that’s an alloy Transition in your list? In which case - don’t do it. Slack seat tube angle and high stack can be limiting to getting in your best position.
The Hed had a slack STA and very low stack so only suited to a few people
The Comet is a competent bike (if you get one of the later, 78deg STA models).
Of course, the P1 is extremely well proven - fast, good geo, tough.
I’d get the best frame I could and scrimp on other bits (except for saddle and bars as they are fit components) to hit budget. Easy to replace minor components later.
It is the alloy version. I don’t know exactly which year. I can deal with the cabling. Are your comments still valid in Cyclnutz’ context?
It is only a frame, so it doesn’t have any brakes and is on the cheaper end of the scale. It also doesn’t have cranks so I can get whatever I want (shorter).
My wheels have aluminum braking surfaces.
I ride an ism saddle which already increases the effective seat tube angle. And shorter cranks make that less of an issue. When I posted pictures of my converted road bike fit the comments were to move my seat back 2cm because my hip angle was so open and my cockpit was too closed. That put me at 78d effective SA, for where I perch on the saddle.
So, all that seems to make this an easier choice if your aero comments are still true for the alloy version.
My stack / reach is 520 / 420. Or pad s/r of 620 /485. The 56cm transition is 526 /405. See above for my thoughts on STA and cranks.
I already have my saddle (ism pr2.0), and current bars (ozero, and t2+). I also have sram red shifters, RD, FD, and brake levers. I have my wheels. So really in the case of the transition, it’s just the frame, crankset and brakes.
I was already looking at the zip vuka, and might go undermount to assist with pad stack if needed. But, I think the bigger question is reach… Longer stem or more forward pad placement.
Given that you are looking at an aluminum Transition, I have to ask how much or little are you looking to spend? None of those choices are particularly fast and if you need brakes and bars I am guessing you could end up spending a lot to piece a bike together. There are some decent deals on used module bikes out there.
Well, as a guy who just bought a p2k (basicaly the same as the P1) and built that up as my workhorse training /racing bike for this year, I’d say the P1 is awesome. Great handling, great fit, and easy to live with.
The p1 is a complete bike (there are a couple, actually). The others are frames+fork, only. I think the HED also has a crank.
Actually, I just looked and now there is also a transition that is a complete bike (same 56cm size) for $225 more than the frame only.
I already have everything except brakes and crank if I go frame only. If I buy a complete bike I can sell off what ever duplicates I don’t want.
Remember, I’m currently riding a 1995 c’dale SR900 with forward seat post, ozero/t2+ bars, etc. So, fast is relative to THAT for me…not a modern Superbike. The position isn’t great, and the frame is fat round tubes.
I work to rear of the pad for pad X so have used 445 as the target
If you’re looking at 56s you will need low stack aerobars - either undermount or the new Profile Design Subsonic (I designed that bar so may be biased)
You can hit current number (just) with an overmount bar, but getting a TT frame should allow you to adapt your position lower over time - so you will need adjustment room.
You can see that the Transition alloy has a lot less front centre and this has a big impact on weight distribution. I found the Transition to be quite twitchy as a consequence.
The aero shaping of the Transition is OK, nothing exceptional. P1 much more advanced in that respect.
And as far as fast goes - this was my wifes setup for the best time she ever did on our local course (we did 1x before it was cool). Which put her 4th on the all time table - behind a world champs rep, an olympian and an olympic pursuit champion. It is very hard to beat one of those frames for speed/$
Thank you very much. That was extremely helpful. You confirmed what I already knew. Stop thinking about it and just get the cervelo.
Of course, as luck would have it one p1 sold and the other appears to have been taken down unsold. However a p3sl 55cm popped up for $250 less than the p1 I’d been looking at.
I didn’t make the same twice.
Funny enough its the same color scheme as your wifes p1 I. That photo.
