Which tri-bikes come with shorter top tubes and longer head tubes?
thanks…
When you ask shorter and longer - what kind of lengths are you looking for?
Several AEGIS models have shorter than average top tubes and longer than average head tubes.
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Which tri-bikes come with shorter top tubes and longer head tubes?
thanks…
A road bike 
Seriously, that’s usually the problem when trying to set up a road frame in a Tri/TT position, i.e. the top tube is too short and the head tube is too tall.
approximately:
ST = 56, 57 or 58 cm
ST angle = 76, 77 or 78 deg
TT = 53 cm
HT = 15 CM
Thanks much.
soloist.
My Litespeed Blade was selected for it’s relatively tall head tube in comparison to most Cervelo and QR bikes that I looked at.
Clarence…
Visit the local Slowtwitch Stack and Reach database on the main page. It will give you the ultimate lowdown.
Custom is another option, and not necessarily an expensive one. My yaqui is a 76 degree bike with a short TT and long HT in relation to the seat tube.
scott
soloist is a great option. Would the Soloist be an average, good, or great set-up for triathlons? Assuming the sizing was 100% on?
Out of curiousity on your Yaqui: What is your TT length? What is your HT length? And what is your ST length?
Thanks.
That’s a tough combination to find.
I have a custom Yaqui Carbo that’s a 13 cm (non-integrated, so ~15cm integrated), 78 deg ST angle, 55 ST, and 52.5 or 53 TT.
It was not designed for me, so I use a turned around Thomson post to make it a touch shorter and an Ergostem to lower the bars.
I looked around for quite a while trying to find something close enough to work…
soloist is a great option. Would the Soloist be an average, good, or great set-up for triathlons? Assuming the sizing was 100% on?
Depends what you mean, need. I rode my SLC for 1 season for 7 tris from Sprint to IM (LP). Personally, I could not get low enough in front relative to my seat height. Did it work? Yup - and pretty well (especially with climbing and cornering - but how important is this for most tris?). However, I am definitely faster on my dedicated tri bike (with an almost 16cm drop) for most all events.
I’d say most can achieve an acceptable big slam position without the bike handling poorly like many poorly set up road bikes do when “converted”. Remember, the Soloist really is a road bike - a very aero one.
“the Soloist really is a road bike - a very aero one.”
Could you describe what makes it a road bike as opposed to a tri bike for someone who’s desired geometry is attainable on the soloist without getting creative with stems? I think I asked you that a while ago and your answer was “it just is.”
In my case (long legs/short torso) I ride the soloist in a tri position with 1 small spacer and the seat all the way forward. I’ve been professionally fit, and what it prevents me from doing is being really steep, but I am not limited by the head tube. Aesthetically, the seat does look sort of weird all the way forward.
Thx,
Kyle
again, the seat tube angle IS 73 degrees - classic road bike geometry. Flipping the stem (SLC and SLC-SLs don’t even come with a reversible seat post) gets you an approximate 76 degrees which shortens the top tube length about 3 cm (reach of course is unchanged).
But, even in a 54 cm the head tube is 14 cm. 16 cm on a 56. My Planet X head tube (and most QR bikes not to mention the P3) is 10cm. 4cm up front is a HUGE difference when trying to rotate your body/pelvis around to keep your hip angle open AND be aero.
The soloist does blend in shortish chainstays (I think under 40cm) for a road bike, but again not as short as a true tri bike (2cm shorter still).
I think one can achieve a great “big slam” position on a soloist which may be just as fast for many for a long bike leg like an IM. But can you get the elusive ST approved aero position? Pretty tough - but, you have the right build (long legs for one) to get close.
again, the seat tube angle IS 73 degrees - classic road bike geometry. Flipping the stem (SLC and SLC-SLs don’t even come with a reversible seat post) gets you an approximate 76 degrees which shortens the top tube length about 3 cm (reach of course is unchanged).
But, even in a 54 cm the head tube is 14 cm. 16 cm on a 56. My Planet X head tube (and most QR bikes not to mention the P3) is 10cm. 4cm up front is a HUGE difference when trying to rotate your body/pelvis around to keep your hip angle open AND be aero.
The soloist does blend in shortish chainstays (I think under 40cm) for a road bike, but again not as short as a true tri bike (2cm shorter still).
I think one can achieve a great “big slam” position on a soloist which may be just as fast for many for a long bike leg like an IM. But can you get the elusive ST approved aero position? Pretty tough - but, you have the right build (long legs for one) to get close.
Rod, you ride with a lot of drop. More than most. I ride with 12-14cm, and can easily get that with a 56cm Soloist with the right aero bars. Of course, saddle height plays a big part in that, and mine at ~77cm leaves a lot of drop to that 16cm head tube. With a flat stem, and the right low stack arm rests, I could probably eek out >15cm of drop. Pedal stack differences can add or subract another 5mm either way (by requiring the saddle be higher/lower).
NO stock bike will give a shorter top tube relative to the head tube height than an aluminum Soloist. How well does it do? Just fine – no issues at all. Now, when I get on the P2C, it feels totally different… a lot longer (that front wheel looks way farther forward, even with a 9cm stem instead of 12cm on the Soloist), more stable, and wobbly out of the saddle.
…But can you get the elusive ST approved aero position? Pretty tough - but, you have the right build (long legs for one) to get close.
…or an ergostem
Of course, any bike where sizing is 100% for you is going to be good! Like Scott said, seriously think about custom, if you are sure these measures are what you need. I was much the same, screwed around for ages with different stock frames to find the right thing. Eventually figured out what I wanted and got custom, and doesn’t have to cost heaps. Going by Slowman’s stack and reach table, my frame is at the high end of the table for stack, low end for reach, and my armrest drop is too embarrassing to post here. I’m kind of high, but not that bad, and very comfortable without the need for reversed seatposts or heaps of spacers.
I’m not sure what the HT length is off the top of my head, but ST is ~62 and TT is ~57.5. STA is 76 degrees. I have Ves’ original drawings someplace. I’ll see if I can find them and confirm the numbers, or just measure the HT this weekend.
scott
These are almost the exact dimensions of my custom Serotta CXII. I doubt that you would find something of the shelf like this.
ST 58
Seat angle 76
TT 54
HT 15
Which tri-bikes come with shorter top tubes and longer head tubes?
thanks…
You could always get a custom frame. Try Guru.
You could also get a smaller frame and use a stem with some rise to it as well as a longer seatpost.