The sales on the 2011 PowerTaps and the new 2012 models have finally pushed me to buy my first power meter. I’m torn between a few options and I’d be very interested in what others here would do. I’m a sprint/olympic distance person with HIM ambitions. I’m not FOP but I’m usually in the top 15% on the bike.
Option 1:
Spend $675. Buy the Pro+ using the Competitive Cyclist deal. Get a Mavic Open Pro rim with 32 DT Swiss Competition spokes (14ga).
Pros: Cheapest option, probably the best bang for buck. Cons: Heavier at 1201 grams. Spokes aren’t aero, high spoke count.
Option 2:
Spend $1044. Buy the SL+ from Wheelbuilder. Get a Kinlin XR-270 with 24 Sapim CX-Ray spokes.
Pros: Lightest option at 994 grams. Aero spokes. Cons: Pricier, still using the 2011 PowerTap.
Option 3:
Spend an unknown quantity (guessing $1100-1200). Buy a 2012 Pro from Wheelbuilder once they have them. Same rim/spokes as option two.
Pros: Newest model PowerTap with the easily replaceable electronics. Still light at 1028 grams. Cons: Weighs a small bit more and costs a bit more than option 2.
Part of me says go for the cheap option, it’s an awesome deal. Part of me says I’ll regret having a slightly heavier wheel and not having aero spokes. Pragmatically, I’m probably not good enough for that to make much difference but I don’t want to cheap out and regret it later. I’m not sure how noticeable the 207 gram/non-bladed spokes would be. What would you do?
Option 3:
Spend an unknown quantity (guessing $1100-1200). Buy a 2012 Pro from Wheelbuilder once they have them. Same rim/spokes as option two.
Pros: Newest model PowerTap with the easily replaceable electronics. Still light at 1028 grams. Cons: Weighs a small bit more and costs a bit more than option 2.
The new Pro is going to be $999/wheelset…the G3 however which is the only one with the removable electronics will be well beyond $1100-1200. I think your assuming both of the new hubs have the new electronics but it’s only the G3. That may make your decision easier…or not.
Good point, that would take the spokes out the equation very nicely - and the money saved would be more than enough for a cover. Would the weight be noticeable? I’ve only ever run the rear wheel I have now and I don’t know what the threshold for a “big” difference would be.
That actually makes things much easier. If the Pro doesn’t have the new electronics, it makes option one or two both more desirable. Thanks for the info!
Good point, that would take the spokes out the equation very nicely - and the money saved would be more than enough for a cover. Would the weight be noticeable? I’ve only ever run the rear wheel I have now and I don’t know what the threshold for a “big” difference would be.
a bunch of us slowtwitchers showed up at the hilliest half iron in the world a few weeks ago and we all got up “the wall” with disc covers, and many of us laid down smoking fast bike times…all of us well above average. one of us beat dave scott!
so, no, not noticeable. but of course if you have money to burn, lighter is a little bit better.
Oh, I wasn’t thinking about the weight of the cover - I was wondering about the 200g difference between the first and second option. I’m actually racing with a cover now - though without the PT. If I’m REALLY lucky, the cover will be the perfect size for both wheels.
It seems like consensus is option one and don’t worry about the bit of extra weight. My wife will be very happy that I’m leaning towards the most frugal option
This option assumes you race only where wheel covers are allowed. For crits and road races, would you really want to race with the Mavic 32h OP? I say the best option is to get a 24h and lace it to Velocity rim that’s a bit more race worthy - later you could cut it out of the cheap rim and put it in a nice 404 or something.
This option assumes you race only where wheel covers are allowed. For crits and road races, would you really want to race with the Mavic 32h OP? I say the best option is to get a 24h and lace it to Velocity rim that’s a bit more race worthy - later you could cut it out of the cheap rim and put it in a nice 404 or something.
Other than for reviewing data after the fact, why do you need power readings in a race? You react to the situation and put down the power required (or are capable of).
For races that aren’t your A races, use the PT for data after the race. Once you get to your A race, use your race wheel w/o power and focus on the finish line.
I went with option 1 earlier today. I was weighing spending for a HED powertap that I was getting a pretty good deal on, the $999 deal from Wheelbuilder, and the $675 option from Competitive Cyclist.
I rode this year on a Wheelbuilder DT Swiss RR585 Powertap with a aerojacket. It worked out great. However, the hub started having issues and I couldn’t resist option 1. I guess there is a reason people sell their powertaps in the classifieds after a couple years.
The new one I ordered today is cheaper than the one i bought earlier this year. It was older than I was led to believe.
bro if you do crits and road races there is only 1 answer
open up your check book
and HED JET 9 THAT BABY
This option assumes you race only where wheel covers are allowed. For crits and road races, would you really want to race with the Mavic 32h OP? I say the best option is to get a 24h and lace it to Velocity rim that’s a bit more race worthy - later you could cut it out of the cheap rim and put it in a nice 404 or something.
200g would slow you down like 12 seconds at the hilliest half iron in the world.
Oh, I wasn’t thinking about the weight of the cover - I was wondering about the 200g difference between the first and second option. I’m actually racing with a cover now - though without the PT. If I’m REALLY lucky, the cover will be the perfect size for both wheels.
It seems like consensus is option one and don’t worry about the bit of extra weight. My wife will be very happy that I’m leaning towards the most frugal option
… If I’m REALLY lucky, the cover will be the perfect size for both wheels.
Given the wide/fat portion of the PT hub that sticks out where the wheel cover meets the hub, I think you may need to buy a new wheelcover, unless you’re willing to cut the cover to widen the hub hole. Fortunately the covers aren’t terribly expensive, at least vs. other bike parts.
I went with option 1 a few days ago. If I were you, I’d make a decision soon before Competitive Cyclist runs out of stock. When I called two weeks ago, they had 85 in stock and I decided to wait. I called again earlier this week and they had 15 left, so that’s when I pulled the trigger. However, I didn’t bother asking if they were going to get any more 2011 PT models…maybe they will, but I doubt it.
