I had a classic Power2 max with the FSA Gossamer crankset that I sold awhile back and now I am considering ordering a new Type S P2M. I really liked the power meter and had no issues. It was simple to set up and use and, like I’ve seen here many times, “it just works.”
Now I’m looking at crank weights (ahh, the weight question) and am wondering is the price premium worth moving from purchasing another Gossamer to the Rotor or even the K-Force Light.
Now I’m looking at crank weights (ahh, the weight question) and am wondering is the price premium worth moving from purchasing another Gossamer to the Rotor or even the K-Force Light.
There will be no real difference in stiffness or weight. You are mostly paying for looks and brand prestige.
Actually, re-reading my reply, let me re-phrase: The carbon cranks are lighter, and the Rotors are a little lighter, but the differences are small in the overall weight of a bike, so it is unlikely they would impact your ride in any perceivable way. If you are happy with the way FSA cranks attach to the bike with the single bolt, then you might as well stick with it.
There’s an excellent chance it won’t be applicable to you or many others on here, but…
An advantage of going with the Rotor based Power2Max is the ability to swap out the power meter on to multiple cranks. The Rotor cranks are extremely versatile and most can fit nearly every bottom bracket.
I had a BBRight specific Rotor 3D+ and it was super simple to add a P2M to it to have power on my tri bike. Since the BBRight specific axle is too short for my BSA or BB386 (and the crank arms are a little short), I bought a ‘take-off’ Rotor 3D30 that’s my preferred length for cx and road. Tri bike has power for tri season and now the cx bike has power for the rest of the year. Neither is ever without a crank or rings. Works for me as the tri bike only comes outside for ~4 months and the cx bike is mostly a commuter during that time.
I remember Power2Max having quite a discount for Black Friday last year. However, their prices are already 2/3 of what they were a year and a half ago.
Also, the Rotor 3D+ supposedly has a bit more heel clearance than the FSA BB386EVO models, due to the taper of the cranks. However, I haven’t had any issues with the FSA Gossamer and I tend to have heels in a bit (fitter commented on it).
I’ve really like my Rotor 3D+ Type S version. FSA Gossamer Classic on the other hand has been causing lots of trouble recently.
Can you elaborate on “causing lots of trouble”?
I am also considering a P2M in either gossamer or rotor 3d (I want a 165 for my BB90 Speed Concept), and while I like the look of the Rotor better and would never say no to weight savings, I had really considered the price difference between the two to be a vanity/style premium, rather than a functional improvement. Perhaps I am wrong. Are you saying that the P2M functions better on a Rotor 3D than an FSA Gossamer?
In general the diameter of the spindle on an FSA crank is very slightly larger than most 24mm spindles (Shimano) but that is still the recommended bottom bracket type. Mine seems to be on the higher end of the tolerances and as such it is a pain to change bottom brackets because the fit is extremely tight. Generally requires a rubber mallet and more force than I would prefer to apply. With all those troubles and lots of on/off to get things sorted. The teeth that line up the crank arm and spindle have now started to get messed up scraping off shards of metal due to the softness. I think I’ve probably on got one more on/off before it is done for.
The actual power meter component function is identical between the different cranks P2M sells.
Keep in mind there are two different Gossamer options for roughly the same price. JToland is referring to the older 24mm version, which I believe is the only one of the two Gossamer options compatible with a Speed Concept. No idea if there are other spindle “issues” for it. For others (without BB90) reading this thread, the BB386EVO version of the Gossamer is going to be more futureproof. That crank will fit into every bottom bracket out there except BB90 and the mt bike specific BB94. The BB386EVO version of the Gossamer is what came with my cx bike and it’s been on and off a half dozen or so times. The spindle on mine plays nicely with the same FSA bearings the Rotor3D30 does. It’s no lightweight, but I have had zero complaints with it.
Out of curiosity, what kind of troubles?
See above.
You can hammer it in a Shimano BB or just get the FSA bearings for BB90 and it will fit perfectly.
I have the Classic Gossamer and had zero issues with it for 2 years now. I don’t take it on and off that frequently though… Used it on my Cervelo P2 with the MegaExxo BB and now on a 2015 Speed Concept (BB90).
I’m looking to get a new Type S Gossamer and retire this one to my road bike so I’m hoping there will be some good deals on Black Friday 
In general the diameter of the spindle on an FSA crank is very slightly larger than most 24mm spindles (Shimano) but that is still the recommended bottom bracket type. Mine seems to be on the higher end of the tolerances and as such it is a pain to change bottom brackets because the fit is extremely tight. Generally requires a rubber mallet and more force than I would prefer to apply. With all those troubles and lots of on/off to get things sorted. The teeth that line up the crank arm and spindle have now started to get messed up scraping off shards of metal due to the softness. I think I’ve probably on got one more on/off before it is done for.
Should have been clearer. Worked perfectly with BB90 specific bearings but retired it to a Specialized Allez. No FSA specific options for BB30. Had the adapters at first and got a bunch of creaking. Had to pry those off using a couple screw drivers. Now using Wheels Manufacturing BB that was also an extremely tight fit to try and get rid of the creaking.
Hah… My road bike is a Specialized Allez (2013) so it looks like I will be running into the same issue. When you say you got creaking with the adapter was that the Rotor BB30 to 24?
Should have been clearer. Worked perfectly with BB90 specific bearings but retired it to a Specialized Allez. No FSA specific options for BB30. Had the adapters at first and got a bunch of creaking. Had to pry those off using a couple screw drivers. Now using Wheels Manufacturing BB that was also an extremely tight fit to try and get rid of the creaking.
Too funny. My FSA Classic went from P2 to Speed Concept. Then bought the Rotor 3D+ for the Speed Concept and moved my FSA Classic to the Allez. I was using these: http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bb30/bb30-adapters/bb-pf30-universal-adapter-for-24mm-spindle-cranks-shimano-fsa-etc.html with a set of standard BB30 bearings. Now using the Wheels Manufacturing BB30 to Shimano screw in BB. I would recommend that over the adapters.
From talking with various mechanics and my reading online it sounds like 9 times out of 10 the FSA will work just fine with Shimano stuff but unfortunately in my case I ended up on the + side of the tolerance range.
Thanks! I’ll bookmark this 
I also had a very tight fit with a Type S FSA Gossamer BB386EVO, and the FSA PF30 bottom bracket that came stock on a 2015 P2. I ended up replacing the BB with a Wheels PF30 and the crankset installed much more easily.
I had a classic Power2 max with the FSA Gossamer crankset that I sold awhile back and now I am considering ordering a new Type S P2M. I really liked the power meter and had no issues. It was simple to set up and use and, like I’ve seen here many times, “it just works.”
Now I’m looking at crank weights (ahh, the weight question) and am wondering is the price premium worth moving from purchasing another Gossamer to the Rotor or even the K-Force Light.
What advantages do you think the Type S has over the Classic? I’m sure when I looked, I couldn’t see anything major.
Nobbie, The changes from the Classic to the S do not make a huge difference to me. I sold my classic out of necessity. If the $499 gossamer classic was still available, I’d grab one, maybe even two, in a heartbeat.
I’ve been happy with my Rotor 3D+ cranks and Classic P2M Spider. I’m using a Rotor BB30 bottom bracket and the system just all seems to work well with both of my bikes.