I’m trying to switch from butyl to latex tubes for race day, but my LBS doesn’t carry them. Neither do the first few tri and bike sites I tried on the web.
So I give up: where can I order some latex tubes?
I’m trying to switch from butyl to latex tubes for race day, but my LBS doesn’t carry them. Neither do the first few tri and bike sites I tried on the web.
So I give up: where can I order some latex tubes?
You can call us at Front of the Pack (650) 804-6680. We always keep a few in stock. It is a little late to ship today but do let us know if we can help.
Best regards!
Greg
The pharmacy.
Sorry, couldn’t resist.
or
Michelin Aircomp Latex (short and long valves - but non removable cores for some reason). Also, be aware, there are 23 and 20mm versions.
I get them from biketiresdirect.com
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local shops probably dont stock them but their wholesalers will have them and get them to ou quick. i live in NJ and often though use worldclasscycles.com ask for roger, tell him steve referred you. for me in NJ, everything comes auto next day at no additional charge. their prices are great for tires and tubes.
Thanks (all).
Also, be aware, there are 23 and 20mm versions.
From what I read, putting the 18/20 inside a 23 mm tire is no problem? Any reason to prefer one over the other in a Michelin Pro2 Race?
No real issue, but since you are going the “ultimate” route in reducing weight and Crr, you likely want the 23 tube in the 23 tire as I don’t know (nor do I know of any test - like the butyl vs. latex tube tes) if this will decrease contact with the tire (thereby increasing loss to hysteresis) or more likely, the tube will just “stretch” out more, decreasing puncture resistance?
From what I read, putting the 18/20 inside a 23 mm tire is no problem? Any reason to prefer one over the other in a Michelin Pro2 Race?
I haven’t measured it, but I would guess that the 18/20 would lose pressure faster since the latex is stretched thinner.
Okay, those answers make sense. The Crr chart I was looking at seemed to put Michelin 18/20 tubes in everything, I thought maybe there was some advantage.
since you are going the “ultimate” route in reducing weight and Crr
You’d laugh, if you saw the rest of my setup. I don’t generally shell out for weight or aero. But a few extra bucks for tubes looks worth it in the $/W department.
Okay, those answers make sense. The Crr chart I was looking at seemed to put Michelin 18/20 tubes in everything, I thought maybe there was some advantage.
There is an advantage – about .00005 to .0001 of Crr or about .5 to 1.0 watts at 25mph – at least when used in a high quality 23c tire.
–jens
Is that difference based on measurements you’ve done?
i use vredestein latex tubes. 46-48g each in the short valve version, and they have removable valve cores for stacking extenders. Best of all, they have been surprisingly easy to install without snagging or failing.
Is that difference based on measurements you’ve done?
That difference is in Al’s chart. He shows at least the Pro2Race (new) with both versions with a difference of 0.6W/tire for his test conditions. Using the “real road” conversion factor of 1.5 and you’re talking basically just under 1 W per tire.
The other advantage is that the 18/20s are easier to install in a 23c sized tire without it getting pinched under the bead.
i use vredestein latex tubes. 46-48g each in the short valve version, and they have removable valve cores for stacking extenders. Best of all, they have been surprisingly easy to install without snagging or failing.
In keeping with the original post in this thread, may I ask where you’ve been getting the vreds? The place I’ve sourced them in the past doesn’t appear to be carrying them anymore (www.repartocorse.com).
Is that difference based on measurements you’ve done?
That difference is in Al’s chart. He shows at least the Pro2Race (new) with both versions with a difference of 0.6W/tire for his test conditions. Using the “real road” conversion factor of 1.5 and you’re talking basically just under 1 W per tire.
It’s in measurements I made too. IIRC, I suggested testing the different tubes to Al. That was after the ‘secret’ go out. ![]()
–jens
Cool, thanks for that info!
Tom - 2 quick questions: do you prefer the Vredestein Latex tubes over the Air Comps (for whatever reason) - I can only seem to find the Michelin ones
and - do you postulate (since this can’t really be tested) that this method may decrease the puncture resistance?
Is that difference based on measurements you’ve done?
That difference is in Al’s chart. He shows at least the Pro2Race (new) with both versions with a difference of 0.6W/tire for his test conditions. Using the “real road” conversion factor of 1.5 and you’re talking basically just under 1 W per tire.
It’s in measurements I made too. IIRC, I suggested testing the different tubes to Al. That was after the ‘secret’ go out. ![]()
–jens
Hey…I apologized for that! ![]()
Cool, thanks for that info!
Tom - 2 quick questions: do you prefer the Vredestein Latex tubes over the Air Comps (for whatever reason) - I can only seem to find the Michelin ones
I do prefer the Vreds since they seem to be made from a more “durable” material and despite being thicker, there wasn’t an appreciable difference between them and the Michelins (as shown in Al’s testing). The long stem tubes also had removeable valve cores.
However, I haven’t bought them for a few months and reports from people who’ve bought them recently seem to indicate that the material appears to be thinner (as reported above…and which could be a good thing for RR) and that the short valve tubes have removeable cores now (which is also a good thing)…I guess what I’m trying to say is that I don’t have experience with the newer Vreds.
and - do you postulate (since this can’t really be tested) that this method may decrease the puncture resistance?
I’m assuming you mean using the small Michelin tubes in larger tires…and in that case I wouldn’t assume they’d be appreciably less puncture resistant. Apparently latex can be stretched pretty significantly without damage (high elasticity) and the difference in the size of the 2 tubes isn’t really that great. It’s the high elasticity of the latex material that actually makes the tubes less likely to “snakebite” flat…not that “snakebites” are really an issue with clinchers, despite what some folks claim. The last time I remember pinch flatting a road tire the rim was destroyed as well. Odds are a tubular would’ve snakebit on that one too ![]()
I have been thinking about using latex tubes for cyclo cross with a 34mm tire. I am too cheap to go with tubulars. I have been unable to find larger sized latex tubes though. I may end up trying it with the 23 mm latex tubes and seeing what happens.
Anyone tried this already?
David K