New bike has one of these integrated behind the front fork.
It seems impossible to set the brakes and not to have to fool with them every time you ride. They seem to move in transport etc.
Is there a trick to getting these to be set it and forget it?
You have to account for the cable tension playing a part. Ramp up the spring tension on both sides, and it will be less of a factor.
By this you mean the small set screws on the side that move the pads in and out correct.
I played with those back and forth until I had it even the best I could. It’s very touchy. Half a crank and one side will just collapse in against the rim. To get it even drive side mostly all the way in while non drive side is mostly out.
Got it set before the race. Raced. Put it on the bike rack, Kuat NV, doesn’t touch the brakes. Drove for three hours and when I took it off the non drive side pad is now up against the rim. Pumped the brake lever a few times to try and reset it but no luck. So now I’ll have to do the whole exercise over again.
Hoping to not have to do this every time I drive to a race.
By this you mean the small set screws on the side that move the pads in and out correct.
I played with those back and forth until I had it even the best I could. It’s very touchy. Half a crank and one side will just collapse in against the rim. To get it even drive side mostly all the way in while non drive side is mostly out.
Got it set before the race. Raced. Put it on the bike rack, Kuat NV, doesn’t touch the brakes. Drove for three hours and when I took it off the non drive side pad is now up against the rim. Pumped the brake lever a few times to try and reset it but no luck. So now I’ll have to do the whole exercise over again.
Hoping to not have to do this every time I drive to a race.
The springs for the rear brake are different on each side. You may want to check to make certain the brake is assembled correctly.
You have to account for the cable tension playing a part. Ramp up the spring tension on both sides, and it will be less of a factor.
+1. Also, make sure the cable slides quite smoothly in its housing. If you take care of those two things, the brake should work quite well (at least the ones on my Fuji Norcom Straight do).
Thanks Andrew.
What’s weird, to me, is that it’s the front brake. I had trouble with the rear on my Kestrel 4000. On this bike the rear is a direct mount shimano. Which seems to be easy.
Thanks Andrew.
What’s weird, to me, is that it’s the front brake. I had trouble with the rear on my Kestrel 4000. On this bike the rear is a direct mount shimano. Which seems to be easy.
Sorry, you mentioned drive side, which led me to assume it was the rear. After I hit reply I realized that might not be correct, but decided to leave my reply in case it might prove helpful to someone else.
Anyway, step one would seem to be to crank up the spring tension to max on both sides, then back off just one until the brake is centered. If that doesn’t solve the problem, then you’ll need to go hunting for sources of excess friction.
You have to account for the cable tension playing a part. Ramp up the spring tension on both sides, and it will be less of a factor.
I’m having issues too, how do you do this?
Here’s the instructions.
I’m guessing given the “integration” there isn’t an alternative brake to use?
When I first started riding a mountain bike with cantilever brakes, I would always have that same problem. Every time I rode, my brakes would be kicked over to one side or the other. Once I figured out how to adjust them, I never had that problem and when I got my Kestrel 4000 I adjusted the brakes the same way and never had a problem. Your brakes should be similar
Here’s what I do:
Set both adjuster bolts in the middle of the a adjustment range
On the side you want to pull out, turn the adjuster in one quarter turn and the other side out one quarter turn.
Keep making small adjustments and always do the opposite on the other side until you get it right,
It might take a couple of times to get it right but once you get it set, it will stay set. Once I got my Kestrel 4000 right, I’ve never had to touch the adjustment again. Same with my wife’s mountain bike with canti’s.
Try it and you should be fine.
Also check cable housing length. It can push or pull the brake to one side if it’s too long or short and doesn’t need to be off by much to cause problems.
I had the same issue with my rear one. I kno you cant do it with your front but this may help someone else. I loosend every single bolt to the point where they were off, i pulled the cable out, examined the brake, then THREW THAT POS IN THE TRASH, replace with TriRig Omega. Rear break works great now. Front break still sucks lol. Im also going to switch from vision levers to shimano as they have better “feel” while braking.
I had the same issue with my rear one. I kno you cant do it with your front but this may help someone else. I loosend every single bolt to the point where they were off, i pulled the cable out, examined the brake, then THREW THAT POS IN THE TRASH, replace with TriRig Omega. Rear break works great now. Front break still sucks lol. Im also going to switch from vision levers to shimano as they have better “feel” while braking.
The TriRig Omega doesn’t fit the TRP TTV Dual Post mount.
Yes, meant SV, but it was more satire…
Ok, sounds more like a SHIV/Kestrel set-up with the TRP-922 or similar (Cable-Mount-Rim). Those are compatible with the Omega SV. The TRP TTV (Cable-Rim-Mount) isn’t. The TTV is a bit of a pain, but I see your point.
I just don’t get why putting the bike in the rack would/did cause the non drive side to pull up against the rim.
The rack does not touch the brake. Only clamps down on top of the wheel.
When I take the bike off and the pad is up against the rim I pump the brakes. Doesn’t fix it. If I move the spring tension bolt ever so slightly it frees up.
I have 2 bikes that have the TTV brakes on both front and rear. I have found that cable routing, cable length, and inner cable wire friction play a huge part in how the brakes operate. Personally, I use Nokon cables with Jagwire HyperGlide wires inside. The HyperGlide wires are .1mm narrower than the Nokon wires for both shift and brake. Still, the side set tension screws are touchy, but cabling and inner wires seems to be the biggest factor in allowing the brakes to relax and re-align after compression.
I have had continuous issues w pass rubbing. TRP not helpful basically
Claiming user error. It’s not. It’s bad design. The cable does not
Snap back. I believe it’s unsafe and is costing me time in races. No matter what I do they rub. Again, TRP not helpful at all, I am really disappointed with their customer service.
What’s the secret to adjusting TRP TTV brakes
Sell the bike.