I’m building up a bike from scratch for the first time, and trying to decide on stem. It seems that of all the parts on a bike, the stem is the least complicated, but the price difference between the lowest end and the highest seems to be proportionally greater than any other part (for instance, realcyclist offers stems from $20-$355). What accounts for this enormous difference? Why do I want something more than the $20 Stella Azzura espresso?
some are lighter
some are stronger
go cheap, or go light, but don’t go for both at the same time!
Jack summed it up pretty well. Personally I don’t worry about the stem on my TT bike as much as I do on my road bike. I want a very stiff stem on my road bike because I’m bigger (170-180lbs) and when I sprint or descend I don’t want it to flex at all. I rarely if ever sprint or do such technical descents on my TT bike that it is an issue, especially considering that the construction and width of the bars, as well as the geometry of the bike is probably the weak link in that set up.
some are lighter
some are stronger
go cheap, or go light, but don’t go for both at the same time!
'nuff said. Thanks for the concise, clear answer.
I put helium in mine; makes the bike lighter.
I put helium in mine; makes the bike lighter.
Helium? I pump my air out so there’s a vacuum.
Aren’t you afraid of being sucked inside in the event of a crash?
I’ll probably regret this, but just to complicate the issue for you, I’ll toss my thoughts in…
On my TT bike, in contrast to the other respondant earlier, I tend to go for strength first, and light weight second. As I’m a pretty big bloke (115kg) when I’m tucked I’m putting a fair amount of weight on the front end of the bike…and with the additional forward weight bias because of the riding position I go for the strength to keep as little flex in the front end as possible so that steering through turns, etc, while on the extensions, is as predictable as possible.
I’d ridden a friends bike (very nice bike BTW) with a lightweight carbon stem, and I swear you could feel a fair difference in the amount of flex when I was tucked.
At the end of the day, there’s a myriad of stems out there… that all do basically the same thing: hold the handlebars a given distance from the steerer tube. You might just go a few notches up from the bottom of the food chain when buying one and if later you decide to ‘upgrade’ then go for it.
I’m hard pressed to come up with a single part on a bike where a huge amount of extra coin buys you so little in the way of substantively better performance. There’s probably something, but I’m drawing only blanks so far trying to thik of what it could be. The key parameters are all fit-based: length, rise, and to a lesser extent steerer clamp height; material is barely relevant. I guess the clamp styles can vary some in terms of ease of use/adjustment, too, but that’s about it.
Personally, I have an alu Ritchey that is stiff enough and plenty light that only cost somewhere around $50. I guess if you were running a much longer extension (say, 120-130mm vs 90 like mine) then flex might become a bigger issue, but I could easily spend 3-4X as much on a fancy carbon stem and it wouldn’t be any lighter.
On a tri bike, not so much. On a road bike the stem is a key part of the bike that will alter many things - all things being equal (measurement) I can certainly tell one from another. Certainly when out of the saddle, sprinting and even the way that they can (or not) facilitate lowering road buzz. I had a custom Litespeed 6/4 stem…hated it. It was flexy as all get out. Now, my trust ITM Big One? Love it - stiff as can be.
I also do not care for stems that have the face come off - I will feed my (round) bars into it - thank you.
Again, on a Tri bike presuming that you are not going to be torquing on the bars in a sprint or hill climb - does nto matter so much.
Not sure if it makes much different but I like to make sure i use stems that have a 4 bolt face plate rather than two just in case 1 breaks I hopefully won’t lose my handlebars and myself over my bike. Again no science that it is better but I feel more secure having double the bolts.
Anyone that says they prioritize strength really has no clue what they’re talking about.
Where are you guys getting your data on what stem is “stronger”? If you say you can feel the stem flexing — BS.
How many people here have broken a stem from sprinting out of the saddle?
I will take one - any day. On a nice stem that the face does not come off of at all. 
If compatible with your fit coordinates, a -17 degree stem is more aerodynamic (parellel to ground, less frontal) relative a to -6 degree stem.
That is so so so far beyond slicing hairs…I suppose I should also make sure that there is no excess helmet strap next to the buckle too…
Anyone that says they prioritize strength really has no clue what they’re talking about.
Where are you guys getting your data on what stem is “stronger”? **If you say you can feel the stem flexing — BS. **
How many people here have broken a stem from sprinting out of the saddle?
I have a cheap carbon stem you should try. It’s downright soggy. Switching it out for a Ritchey 4-Axis was the best decision I ever made.
As for whether it’d break? Doubt it. However, if my 143 lbs and 5’11" can flex some of these cheap carbon–wrapped aluminum, they’re not suitable for real powerhouses.
Honestly, what’s in a stem? Hopefully aluminum. Unless you’re huge, you’ll be well suited by buying a Ritchey 4-Axis in whatever length and angle you need. I’ve bought three used for about $35 / ea, and they’re pretty good.
Anyone that says they prioritize strength really has no clue what they’re talking about.
Where are you guys getting your data on what stem is “stronger”? **If you say you can feel the stem flexing — BS. **
How many people here have broken a stem from sprinting out of the saddle?
I have a cheap carbon stem you should try. It’s downright soggy. Switching it out for a Ritchey 4-Axis was the best decision I ever made.
As for whether it’d break? Doubt it. However, if my 143 lbs and 5’11" can flex some of these cheap carbon–wrapped aluminum, they’re not suitable for real powerhouses.
Honestly, what’s in a stem? Hopefully aluminum. Unless you’re huge, you’ll be well suited by buying a Ritchey 4-Axis in whatever length and angle you need. I’ve bought three used for about $35 / ea, and they’re pretty good.
I should have mentioned I’ve never ridden a carbon stem or handlebar because though it can be done right (manufacturing of carbon) it not always is and I’d never trust my teeth to chinese made carbon parts.
I’ve had great luck with these at performance bike (made for their ‘forte’ brand by Kalloy of Taiwan), a simple aluminum stem that’s very high quality, has a great finish, great stiffness, quite lightweight, and at a great price. Lot’s of sizes and diameters too.
I have always just bought what I thought looked good with the bike.
I have a 3T Team stem I’ll sell ya for $50 + shipping. Size 100 or 90 but I can check. Had to get a new one because my bike fittter said it was way too long so bought a new shorter one. PM me if you want. It is ultra-light! BTW, it is black with red stripes, 1 year old.