I have a 2013 Trek Speed Concept 9.5.
What wheels would you put on her and why? Tubular or Clincher and why? Tires? What “width” wheel matches up best with an SC?
I am 5’11", 175-180 lbs. I’m somewhere in between a back-of-the-pack-elite and a local-overall’er. 25+ mph in sprint/oly. 24’ish mph in flat 70.3s Money isn’t an issue. Color isn’t an issue.
I am leaning towards ZIPP or HED and I will also consider FlO.
Thanks in advance-
I’d go with the new zipp clincher disc that is coming out shortly and a 808 FC up front. Supposedly the fastest combo out there. The clinchers are just as fast as the Tubular’s now with less hassle.
Bontrager… you lose the warranty with anything else.
Bontrager… you lose the warranty with anything else.
interesting. can you explain why?
Not really. It’s just how Trek works. Once you put any part that is not theirs on your bike, you lose your warranty. I’ve honestly heard (just word of mouth), that if you have a Garmin attached, they can cut your warranty. I find that hard to believe but it’s a rumor.
With all that said, I have Mavic wheels on my SC and a Garmin.
Entertain me now…but, how in the hell would TREK know what wheels I am running?
Dude, they wouldn’t unless you send it in with the wheels on it or your LBS is a bunch of dicks when you claim something is wrong… be smarter than that and quit asking me, I don’t work for them, I’m just stating their policy.
I have SRAM S60s on my 2011 Trek SC 7.0 Been in to the Trek store here in town plenty of times for warranty work/tune ups etc and there has never been an issue
.
Stop spreading misinformation.
I’m guessing that this line of warranty exclusion is getting misinterpreted:
"Installation of components, parts, or accessories not originally intended for or compatible with the bicycle as sold "
This is clearly not applicable to wheels if they are “intended or compatible” with your bike. Trek sells their own bikes with non-Bontrager wheels.
To the original poster. I’d probably go for tubulars, Zipp either sub 9 or super 9 and a bontrager D3 front.
be smarter than that and quit asking me, I don’t work for them, I’m just stating their policy.
First you presented it as fact. Then you said it was a rumor. Now you’re saying it’s their policy. Who’s the one not being smart, again?
be smarter than that and quit asking me, I don’t work for them, I’m just stating their policy.
First you presented it as fact. Then you said it was a rumor. Now you’re saying it’s their policy. Who’s the one not being smart, again?
Really? I did state a fact, then a separate fact that I said was a rumor (which I found to be funny; should I have made it pink); then Runless stated the word for word policy and how it can be misinterpreted. Pretty sure I didn’t state anything stupid or ask anything stupid.
Really? I did state a fact,…
No. You didn’t.
Back to not arguing about something that was not asked…I have a Flo 60 on the front and a disc covered mavic open with PT on the rear…both clincher. I use Vittoria Open Corsa 23 on both.
Dude, they wouldn’t unless you send it in with the wheels on it or your LBS is a bunch of dicks when you claim something is wrong… be smarter than that and quit asking me, I don’t work for them, I’m just stating their policy.
First off, I would rather not be addressed as “Dude.” Secondly, I’m the OP and I am asking a question on a forum to get people’s opinions. If your bothered by me, my question or my thread, go suck your thumb and jam it up your @ss.
I can’t suck my thumb and stick it up my a$$ at the same time? Should I use both thumbs?
Back to not arguing about something that was not asked…I have a Flo 60 on the front and a disc covered mavic open with PT on the rear…both clincher. I use Vittoria Open Corsa 23 on both.
Tell me about your FLO wheel. Durable? Stay true? Width ok with Trek PC’s? Thanks-
I run an Easton 90 up front and a Renn 555 disc. Money was an issue for me or I would have gone with a Zipp combo. I’m used Challenge Tubulars but will be changing that, they were 23’s. With the Easton I have to open my break more than when the Bontreager training wheels are on. No issues breaking though. I have a 7.0 though so the break is not integrated.
Bontrager… you lose the warranty with anything else.
I work for a Trek store;
From the website:
"THIS WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER:
Normal wear and tear
Improper assembly
Improper follow-up maintenance
Installation of components, parts, or accessories not originally intended for or compatible with the bicycle as sold
Damage or failure due to accident, misuse, abuse, or neglect
Labor charges for part replacement or changeover
This warranty is void in its entirety by any modification of the frame, fork, or components. This warranty is expressly limited to the repair or replacement of a defective item, and said repair or replacement is the sole remedy of the warranty."
Shops seem to get to exercise some common sense and judgement in determining whether to process a warranty claim. If, for instance, you were to swap out a SRAM drivetrain on a 7/9 series SC for a Shimano one (on your own, after time of purchase), then the new parts you got wouldn’t be warrantied, but the action of swapping your stock parts for compatible ones shouldn’t affect the warranty of the frame itself in the eyes of most shops. It seems to me the idea is to limit the warranty coverage so that the original complete bike purchase warranty doesn’t cover parts you put on after the time of purchase, thereby effectively giving you Trek’s warranty coverage for free on parts not purchased as part of the bike.
On the other hand, if you have a frame with a braze on FD hanger and you try to cut it off and put a clamp on FD in its place, then there’s no way Trek would warranty your bike. Use common sense, talk to your local trek retailer before you do something, and they should be able to take care of you.
Obviously Trek/Bontrager would love to sell you wheels out of the Aeolus lineup, but I too suspect that the aforementioned zipp 808/disc combo will be fastest.
I’m running:
2012 SC 9.x
808 FC tubular + Zipp Tangente 21mm in the front
Sub9 or 808FC tubular, Zipp Tangente 23mm rear
You’ll find lots of debate about what is fastest, and some good posts from Rapp if you search regarding the fastest tires, but I am content with riding tires that were designed for those wheels in mind. Is there something faster? Maybe, but I haven’t ever had a race result be decided by milliseconds or even seconds. I run the 23mm rear because although those rear wheels are tested fastest at 21, I’ll take the marginal hit on aerodynamics for the marginal improvement in ride comfort… the SC is a stiff bike, and any pothole bump can be felt very clearly.
If you want the ABSOLUTE fastest, it’s going to take more than a quick census of the ST minds to draw a conclusion. For everyone that says go Zipp, I’m sure you can find someone that says go 3-spoke HED. For everyone that says clincher, you can find someone that says tubular (although Zipp’s newest data claims that their super9 CC disk is the fastest iteration of it… but it would be tough to see a product that was slower than an older products, don’t ya think??)
Flo seems to be a very good alternative as well, a little heavier, but not lacking in quality. There’s a very long thread that I’d suggest reading through if they are drawing your interest.