I ordered some Rudy Photocromatic Rx Sunglasses and they say they go from 78% LT to 18% LT in the sun. However, everything is still really bright out and I have to squint to see when they are dark. Is it something wrong with the sunglasses or is that how they are supposed to be at 18% LT?
Just curious what Light Transmission % every else uses for running and cycling.
IDK what Light transmition these are, but I run in these:
http://i55.tinypic.com/2vnfhbm.jpg
Are those glasses like transition glasses that some people use for reading glasses?
.
I have Tifosi’s and use the Fototec red lenses for cloudy/overcast days or less sun - they’re 35-12%. I use the Smoke with red glare for sunny days - they’re 12%. My variable lens do not get as dark as the fixed lens @ 12%.
I ordered some Rudy Photocromatic Rx Sunglasses and they say they go from 78% LT to 18% LT in the sun. However, everything is still really bright out and I have to squint to see when they are dark. Is it something wrong with the sunglasses or is that how they are supposed to be at 18% LT?
Just curious what Light Transmission % every else uses for running and cycling.
i’m guessing you bought the impactx photochromic clear lenses. i have a set, too; they’re great.
BUT…
they’re not optimal as an everday/every condition lens. the photochromic coating does not work as well in warm conditions as it does in colder temps. thus, they might not darken enough for you on a bright summer day.
i use the impactx photo polarized gray for summer conditions, which have 12-30% LT. they don’t have as much of a range, and that’s precisely what works so well for summer sun, IMO.
I have Rudy Project Multilaser Red (21%) and Racing Red (28%) lenses.
I use the multilaser red lenses most of the time and the racing red lenses if it’s cloudy or early in the morning. I also use the racing red if I’m going to ride on a road with a lot of shade on the street. It’s easier to see pot holes.
I have some all purpose amber Oakley M frames and they are 50% VLT (visible light transmission) and I have a dark grey pair that are only about 12-15% VLT I think.
I am quite sensitive to the light (being blonde with pale blue eyes, and light eye colour people are generally more sensitive to light) after several bouts of snow blindness. I have my indoor glasses (my prescription ones) and my outdoor glasses (my sunnies of various darkness) I’m long sighted so going without prescription outside isn’t too much of a hassle.
Along with the VLT you also need to be checking the IR (Infra Red) and UV light transmission. They need to be reasonable as well, in order to give you the calming effect (ie stop you squinting) you are looking for. I even find that my M-Frames with clear lenses, but with excellent IR and UV protection, provide a great calming sensation on my eyes, in surprisingly bright light conditions
Sunnies…first they have to work, THEN they have to look good.
Check the Oakley website, they have a neat thing where you can simulate the look of various lenses in various lighting situations so you can get an idea what VLT you might prefer (last time I checked anyway)
Remember too that it’s not just the specification of the glass that matters. If you have a small lens, lots of light will spill in from the sides and top, while a full wrap style with complete eye coverage will be able to get away with less tint etc.
The thing that people always forget with photochromic sunglasses (and sunglasses in general), is that your pupils still will dilate in response to low light. This means your eyes are working to try and eliminate that nice photochromic light reduction, by actually allowing more light into your eye just as things dim.
So while a photochromic lens might actually reduce ambient light by 90%, since your pupils will dilate in response to the reduced light input, you might notice virtually no dimming at all. Sucks.
This is why a sunglass lens with true 95% light blockage will effectively kill a camera lens if you put it in front of one, even in broad daylight (your image will be pretty much near-blacked out), but you can wear them in the sun and report about only a 50% light reduction perceived.
In fact, your eyes have the most incredible optical light range - more than any professional camera equipment or lens can offer. (Hence why pro photographers often carry an entire bag of lens just to recapture why your eye can do naturally.)
From a practical standpoing, the Tifosi red photochromics are good for dawn/dusk, and nonpeak hour riding, whereas a dedicated fixed dark lens with much lower light transmission, is good for peak sun conditions. The photochromic effect is actually useful for those specific conditions - it’s not good if you’re planning to ride in peak sun, because you’ll still be squinting.