I have a Shimano 105 chain sitting around that I might as well use. Thought I’d throw a quick link in it since I love it on my KMC chain.
What kind of link can I toss in? Local shop has SRAM or Wipperman, will those work?
yes
Sram feels tighter to me. I need a tool to remove/replace it.
lost the only whipperman I had in the middle of an FTP test. But it was easier to remove.
I use Sram now
Never had a problem with a KMC link:
http://www.probikekit.com/ca/components/bike-chains/kmc-missing-link-shimano-10-speed.html
.
+1 on the SRAM master link. The 10 speed SRAM links aren’t removable or reusable but they’re secure and roll nicely even on small cogs.
The last Whipperman I used seemed fine in training but my chain kept jumping on fast big gear sections of certain time trials. Turns out the Whipperman link with it’s bulged outer plate sections wouldn’t roll smoothly over the 11 tooth cog on my race wheels which of course I only got into on faster tailwinds or descents so most of the time the shifting seemed perfect. It took some time with the bike in the work stand with the race wheels mounted to see what was happening but the larger plates on the Whipperman link were causing the chain to skip on the 11 tooth cog under load, no such problems with the SRAM links. Not an issue if you don’t run an 11 but food for thought.
-Dave
Out of curiosity, did you ever check to see if you had the Wipperman installed in the correct direction?
I use Wipperman and never had any issues with it. I use Shimano and Sram 10sp chains. Used it on my mountain bike also with no problem, although I don’t “race” the mountain bike. I prefer the Wipperman because you don’t need a tool to remove it. Very useful when I clean my bike. JC
Out of curiosity, did you ever check to see if you had the Wipperman installed in the correct direction?
X2 Many folks don’t realize there is a “right way”.
I definitely followed the instructions when installing the link as it’s not a brand I was familiar with. But now that it’s removed I have no way to double check that it was indeed installed properly or if I accidentally reversed it. But a very good point as it could have totally been operator error on my part. But given that both plates bulge outward it seems likely that it would have had this problem in either direction:
http://www.trisports.com/wico10li.html
-Dave
I definitely followed the instructions when installing the link as it’s not a brand I was familiar with. But now that it’s removed I have no way to double check that it was indeed installed properly or if I accidentally reversed it. But a very good point as it could have totally been operator error on my part. But given that both plates bulge outward it seems likely that it would have had this problem in either direction:
http://www.trisports.com/wico10li.html
-Dave
It will so clickty click if you install it upside down/backwards. Trust me, been there done that. The large radius curve of the link must face outward.
Hugh
Good feedback, but those instructions linked look just like what I followed and have no reference to direction of the bulges so I guess it’s entirely possible the link was installed ‘backwards’ but you’d think if that was critical it might be mentioned somewhere in the instructions supplied with the part.
So if I take that diagram literally it looks like the correct orientation of the link is with the large bulged end of the outer plate facing to the rear with the link in the bottom segment of chain or IOW, the bulged side of the outward plate facing forward when the chain is cycled through to the top and spanning the gap above the chainstay? I’d like to use a removable and reusable link on my winter bike as it rains so much here I like to do more thorough chain cleaning and if I use another one of these I’d like to be certain I’m using it correctly.
-Dave
Good feedback, but those instructions linked look just like what I followed and have no reference to direction of the bulges so I guess it’s entirely possible the link was installed ‘backwards’ but you’d think if that was critical it might be mentioned somewhere in the instructions supplied with the part.
So if I take that diagram literally it looks like the correct orientation of the link is with the large bulged end of the outer plate facing to the rear with the link in the bottom segment of chain or IOW, the bulged side of the outward plate facing forward when the chain is cycled through to the top and spanning the gap above the chainstay? I’d like to use a removable and reusable link on my winter bike as it rains so much here I like to do more thorough chain cleaning and if I use another one of these I’d like to be certain I’m using it correctly.
-Dave
Dave,
The large radius or as you call it the bugling side of the plate should should be oriented so that it will face outward as it rounds the chain rings and cassette cogs. If the bulged side faces the chain rings or cogs it will click for sure. The
Hugh
I have a preference for the Wipperman links. I’ve never had an issue with them and I much prefer the tool-less removal.
i have a couple of new KMC missing links that say shimano 10sp but when i tried to use them on a ultegra 6700 chain they would not fit as they were too narrow for the chain. used them on a kmc chain and no problem. not sure why there would be a width variance.
perhaps the shimano chains got a tad wider in recent years.
Thats funny. Installed a new KMC Shimano 10 sp master link on my new Ultegra 6700 chain a couple of days ago - no problem. Is it possible that you got a Campy connector (KMC makes both a Campy and Shimano version) by mistake and that might be the problem?
Nope no chance. I got a bunch of them all in the original packaging. Says shimano 10sp.
Good feedback, but those instructions linked look just like what I followed and have no reference to direction of the bulges so I guess it’s entirely possible the link was installed ‘backwards’ but you’d think if that was critical it might be mentioned somewhere in the instructions supplied with the part.
So if I take that diagram literally it looks like the correct orientation of the link is with the large bulged end of the outer plate facing to the rear with the link in the bottom segment of chain or IOW, the bulged side of the outward plate facing forward when the chain is cycled through to the top and spanning the gap above the chainstay? I’d like to use a removable and reusable link on my winter bike as it rains so much here I like to do more thorough chain cleaning and if I use another one of these I’d like to be certain I’m using it correctly.
-Dave
Dave,
The large radius or as you call it the bugling side of the plate should should be oriented so that it will face outward as it rounds the chain rings and cassette cogs. If the bulged side faces the chain rings or cogs it will click for sure. The
Hugh
Just remember the heart goes upside down…
Good feedback, but those instructions linked look just like what I followed and have no reference to direction of the bulges so I guess it’s entirely possible the link was installed ‘backwards’ but you’d think if that was critical it might be mentioned somewhere in the instructions supplied with the part.
So if I take that diagram literally it looks like the correct orientation of the link is with the large bulged end of the outer plate facing to the rear with the link in the bottom segment of chain or IOW, the bulged side of the outward plate facing forward when the chain is cycled through to the top and spanning the gap above the chainstay? I’d like to use a removable and reusable link on my winter bike as it rains so much here I like to do more thorough chain cleaning and if I use another one of these I’d like to be certain I’m using it correctly.
-Dave
Dave,
The large radius or as you call it the bugling side of the plate should should be oriented so that it will face outward as it rounds the chain rings and cassette cogs. If the bulged side faces the chain rings or cogs it will click for sure. The
Hugh
Just remember the heart goes upside down…
I like that one but it only works for when the chain is on its forward moving path. They say a picture is worth 1000 words so here is one.
