What are the unexpected annoyances with pricey deep dish race wheels?

Triathlon Forum
1

I don’t own race wheels now, but was considering it as a splurge gift to myself for some good work done earlier this year.

Just before I dive in though, I want to make sure there aren’t any logistical issues that will really annoy me with pricey race wheels. I’m very familiar with the aero gains (or lack thereof), so that’s not an issue.

Amongst the things I’ve heard folks complain about:

  • Incessant headaches dealing with valve extenders which don’t work reliably
  • Weaker braking power on descents, to the point it actually gets dicey on steep curvey descents
  • Incompatibility with brake systems (not just brake pads)
  • Problems mounting tires on certain clincher systems for whatever reason

Anyone care to comment on these or also expound upon pet peeves with your race wheel that still annoy you? (Other than the $$$$ price)

2

Being passed by the lady on the mountain bike with less excuses than before…

3

…being told by the ST mafia that you need to carry 4 wheels on the bike so that you can change to have the correct wheel on for the specific yaw angle as the set you’ve paid $3000 for are 2seconds slower than some equally flash wheels that they happen to own.

4

Aluminum clincher rims will eliminate your last three concerns for the most part.

As for the first, purchase tubes with a removable valve core and get your lbs to get you the right length extender based on you rim and tube valve length. No leaking and airing up and letting air out of the tire is the same as it is on training wheels.

For example I’m running a vittoria latex tube in front with a problem solvers vavle extender. dead easy to set-up and no mucking around down the road.

5

Crosswinds with a front, the deeper the wheel the worse crosswinds affect stability. I have a Jet 90 front and it’s bad even when cars pass me. Next year I’m sticking with my 404 for races.

6

the arse clench that comes when you hit something way too hard and your just waiting for your wheels to shatter. the thought of all those dollars just being crushed!

7

Going faster. I hate that.

8

the arse clench that comes when you hit something way too hard and your just waiting for your wheels to shatter. the thought of all those dollars just being crushed!

+1 on this. I have the reoccuring fear that I will find the wheel killing pothole / rough patch that will destroy my carbon tubulars- and then the second and even more terifying part of explaining to my wife why I need to buy another set because while others of you may have stocks and mutual funds I invest mainly in my bike. Besides, lets face it, once you make the jump to a decent set of race wheels you cant go back on principal alone. I mean, I would have to use results and times as opposed to gear to measure myself against other age groupers and who really wants to do that.

9

You only need race wheel - front - since for <$100 you can get a disk cover and make nearly any R wheel your race wheel - thereby eliminating all those “issues” for one of your wheels right off the bat.

Dunno what peoples problem is w valve extenders - IF you use a little Teflon plumbers tape, they work just fine w/ any tube and wheel.
If you are getting a 60 rim or less, there are tubes w/ 80 stems you can get, but they only come in butyl. I prefer latex for raceday.

Newer wider rims - C2, FC, etc - require brake adjustment compared to normal rims.
I just popped for a training wheel built w a HED 23 rim, so I’ll never have to deal w that (very minor) annoyance ever again.
(I needed a new front training wheel anyway).

Mounting tires on a clincher is what it is. How deep the plastic behind the rim bed is, is irrelevant.

Getting pushed around on a blustery day, and lightening your wallet significantly are the only true drawbacks of deep wheels.

10

The sudden hit to the debit/credit card can be tough to get over (“That was just for wheels, no bike?” asked the wife), but the return on investment is nice. Not sure of the current exchange rate on dollars and seconds, though.

x2 on aluminum rims. My wheels of choice are Hed Jet 6/9 C2. I’ve had them for a little over two years and find them to be a wise, versatile choice.

11

Buy these, here: http://bikeisland.com/cgi-bin/BKTK_STOR20.cgi?Action=Details&ProdID=1146

http://bikeisland.com/images/5mcs5.JPG $ 700.00, If you want a “disc”, call Wheelbuiler and get a cover.

And, with the money you save, buy this:
http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/public/sF6Vtl6tTzC0GEoCwXBogztTF8q6ArmUPLcifgoqIHjkg0-0-VKACJc1Bmc8yV1Nha4mZRFp1bwN5HZ44Ws5oZJwpmzX-UFvNMmCFbMh0Y9YqU5YI4qo352j-S88CYHrrKzb5HrSyYbaVMQm86PGPQvbQ-UL96ALlCyHFHvfUlMC-X1MqQ=s220-c

12

that annoying vroom vroom whoosh whoosh sound my disc makes as I pass people.

thing is, only the person getting passed can hear it. Not the rider. How unexpectedly annoying!

13

The only nuisance I can really think of is having to use a crack pipe to inflate my hed3 and rear w/disc cover on race morning. I can manage to do it by myself holding the crack pipe on with one hand and pumping with the other, but its easier if I have a 2nd set of hands.

14
  1. Paying a ridiculous amount for a new bike only to having to attack my rear integrated brake with a flippen metal file to get my wide rim carbon wheel to fit without rubbing.
  2. Needing a degree in mechanical/Industrial Engineering (which I have…) in order to swap out the brake pads or adjust the rear integrated brake every time you change from your deep rim carbon race wheels to your aluminum rim wheels that are narrower.
  3. Leaning my carbon clinchers against the back of my truck only to forget about them and later wonder what that “Snap” sound is when you back out of the driveway…

BTW, my older Zipp 808’s with the aluminum rim was the best wheels I’ve ever had and not a single problem ever. Now, the new all carbon 808 firecrests not so much…the wheels are awesome, the bike is awesome, but together…:frowning:

15

Some may not agree, but I find my Hed Jet 60’s to be uncomfortable and jarring. I much prefer my mavic SLs for everyday riding - same latex tubes and tires. I’m not sure if it’s the stiffness of the build (for the Hed’s) or just that the mavics are very forgiving.

16

The only nuisance I can really think of is having to use a crack pipe to inflate my hed3 and rear w/disc cover on race morning. I can manage to do it by myself holding the crack pipe on with one hand and pumping with the other, but its easier if I have a 2nd set of hands.

Buy a Topeak Joe Blow Ace/Pro/Turbo which have the SmartHead head. It fits into a H3 valve hole or a disc valve hole without issue.

17

I have had no problems with valve extenders. In fact, they are easier to work with than the standard stem if you ask me.

Regarding worries about damaging the wheels on a ride, I picked the Mavic Cosmic Carbone SL with a Powertap hub because I wanted wheels that I could ride all the time, not just race day. The Carbone SLs have an aluminum rim with metal spokes and a carbon fairing. I prefer this setup for training and racing as opposed to a carbon rim, carbon spokes, etc. for

One minor issue with any of these aero wheels that you may encounter has to do with some of the bike racks out on the market. Many of them have straps that go over the rims and clamp down on the rims. You can’t do that with aero wheels, so you either have to clamp the bike down on the frame somewhere or put some cheap wheels on for transporting.

Another benefit to the Carbone SL wheels is the brake surface is aluminum, so you don’t have to worry about special brake pads if you swap out wheels. No problem on braking power either.

FWIW,
Greg

18

Some may not agree, but I find my Hed Jet 60’s to be uncomfortable and jarring. I much prefer my mavic SLs for everyday riding - same latex tubes and tires. I’m not sure if it’s the stiffness of the build (for the Hed’s) or just that the mavics are very forgiving.

How is that even possible? Jets ARE an aluminum rim with a really expensive, non-structural faring on them.

19

Recessed spoke nipples on some models :frowning:
.

20

Some may not agree, but I find my Hed Jet 60’s to be uncomfortable and jarring. I much prefer my mavic SLs for everyday riding - same latex tubes and tires. I’m not sure if it’s the stiffness of the build (for the Hed’s) or just that the mavics are very forgiving.

How is that even possible? Jets ARE an aluminum rim with a really expensive, non-structural faring on them.

Believe me, I asked myself the same question!

Here is the deal:

I have two bikes, the first is a cervelo soloist team, and the other is a cervelo SLC-SL. Both bikes are the same size, both have the same stems, bars, bar tape, pedals, seatpost, saddles, tires and tubes, and run the same pressure (105(ish) psi).

The only major differences are the wheels (and frame material of course!). On the aluminium soloist I was using (full-time), a set of mavic SLs, and on the carbon SLC-SL a set of Hed jet 60’s.

I just got the SLC-SL this year, and the bike just didn’t feel as comfortable as my aluminium soloist after riding both of them off and on for a couple of months. I really couldn’t figure it out.

It got to the point where when I went to my bike shop (the shed out back), I’d find myself picking my soloist team due preferring the nicer feel over my beautiful new SLC-SL with fancy wheels. One day I finally decided to switch wheels, and it was like night and day to me. The SLC finally road the way I thought it should - very comfy and much less jarring on small bumps. Now I find myself grabbing the SLC every ride.

I know it shouldn’t make a difference, but feel between the two wheel sets for me is huge.