http://www.chucksbikes.com/store/indexcr036.htm
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Buy this crank.
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Remove the spider
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Get some modeling foam, but only the stuff that is dissolvable in acetone.
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Wax the crank’s faces (where the bolts and BB axles are), including where the pedals and BB mount (both sides), just not the sides of the crank.
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Cut your modeling foam to shape to attach to the sides of the non-drive side of the crank.
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superglue the foam onto the crank sides, making certain no glue ends up on the faces of the crank.
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Suss out the spider fairing, then cut to shape.
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Repeat the proceedure #6 onto your drive crank.
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Make a mould out of fibreglass from your foamed cranks. Make certain to spray some peel-ply onto your crank faces.
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Glass the foam. Follow resin manufacturer’s directions on curing. I like using a low-tow, easily drapable fibreglass, and using many, many layers (like 10 or 20).
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After final cure, remove crank, then use acetone to remove the foam from your new mould.
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Clean mould thoroughly, then smooth out any imperfections with putty.
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Polish, then wax mould several times.
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Spray peel-ply into new mould.
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Make a fibreglass “splash” of the new mould. This will show whether or not your mould is smooth. You will want to vacuum-bag this “splash”.
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If mould is not perfect, then work on smoothing until perfect.
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If satisfied with mould, use carbon. You will only need three layers of carbon to have a semi-structural over-wrap. You will need to vacuum bag it.
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Clean flash and drill appropriate holes for access to pedal holes and BB mounts.
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Sand carbon cranks with 80-grit sandpaper and clean with acetone.
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Use 3M DP 460 to glue crank fairing onto crank. Make certain pedal threads and BB mount are protected from the glue.
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Finish the over-wrap with epoxy, or leave the crank over-wrap unfinished.
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Re-install spider.
I think I am going to try this. I will photograph and post onto forum when finished.
See, scum bag knows a thing or two about carbon.