Another ridiculous tubular question. I flatted out my front tubular mounted to a Hed.3c on a teeny piece of glass. Turned the bike over, grabbed a canister of Pit Stop, opened the presta valve, stuck the canister opening onto the valve head, pushed. The Pit Stop clear plastic top with the opening separated under pressure from the can and white snow sprayed everywhere. Stopped. Replaced clear plastic top with opening. Still pressure. Checked presta valve again. Reinserted Pit Stop. Head separated from body of can … more white snow and foam all over Hed.3c cutout. Curse. Snow turns to long stringy spider webs everywhere. Turned wheel on spindle a few times. No psi. Fill with CO2 canister … little teeny hole is still there.
Abandon project. Ride 6 miles on flat to destination.
I’ve used Pit Stop successfully fine twice now, it sounds like user error to me.
You want the valve at the top, so the pit stop is pointing up, then just lightly press it on until it flows, hold it there for ~45 seconds, then wipe off the crap, spin it around, and go.
I’ve never used it with a Hed3 or disc, so I don’t know if having the cutout/angle affected it in any way though.
Also, I should add that in this case it doesn’t sound like you even got the contents of the canister into the tire/tube itself?
Even if you did, the normal results is that white snow simply shoots out of the hole in the tube/tire until the can is empty. Then you can stall and spin the wheel for a bit to spread the sealant around. Then hit it with a CO2 and usually just watch the contents spray out of persisting puncture.
Does it ever actually work? Sure, but the success rate seems to be unacceptably low. It is no where reliable enough to be your sole source of flat protection for training, and only to be used in racing if you are in it for all or nothing, i.e. you accept that if you flat, your race is probably over anyway.
In all other cases, you have to suck it up and bring a spare, or switch back to clinchers.
Was the tubular completely flat (no air). I have found that if you have some air in the tire it doesn’t work as well. In all cases it works only for small holes in my experience.
That may have been my issue, not completely flat, which would explain possible “pushback” from the valve, causing the top to pop off the canister. Honestly hadn’t considered it, but it makes sense. Thanks. Guess I’ll blow a second canister on a totally empty tubular to see what happens. Though now that I rode on the flat for 6 miles, it’s probably shot in any event.
I have used the Caffelatex product successfully and it has the advantage of using a tube to dispense the contents, so you can use it with a disc.
The key for me was to make sure the tire had zero air AND the valve was open. I think that’s why they recommend pointing the can up.
I know it’s too late now, but I’d give the other stuff a shot before you quit on the whole product category. I still carry an extra tubular though if I know I won’t be able to call for a ride home. With a large puncture on an old tire, I didn’t waste the can I had with me and just put on my spare pre-glued tubbie.
“The key for me was to make sure the tire had zero air AND the valve was open. I think that’s why they recommend pointing the can up.”
Good advice here
I’ve used pitstop twice, once on a clincher that had a small glass shard cut- it partially sealed, enough to ride home; and another on a tubie with small puncture, it worked as advertised and is still holding air
I used Pit Stop successfully during IM Calfornia 70.3 and it saved my race. As others have mentioned, the tire needs to be flat and the open valve at the top of the tire.
every time when one of these ouestions come up the fat mouths step in , make a statemement they know nothing about. # 1 pitstop works…I ride nothing but tubluars, 4 different bikes all with zipp wheels and vittoria tires on them. I ride thousands of miles a year and I do get my share of flats. Only had to call for help once when I cut the side wall. Sounds like your problem started with a completely flat tire. You need to push the valve up through the rim a hold it before installing the pit stop. You need to get that pitstop cap all the way down on the extender or valve. Once the tire starts filling up you can just hold the pitstop. Yes the plastic cap will come off. Most of time when you are done filling the tire and you try remove the canister… If you hold the cap on while removing the pitstop can it wiil not happen. Now some are telling you right about spinning the wheel and that usually works but what works better is remove the wheel and spin and shake it. much like you do when you put stans in mountain bike wheels. You can fix two flats with one can. There have been times when I did not get the hole completey closed and needed shoot more pitstop in. If you can find the hole point it down and shack it… Another little tip when you get home even if you stopped the leak shoot some more pitstop in and pump up the tire to your riding psi, let it sit overnite…good luck.
Post Pit-Stop Question: What is the longterm effect on the tubie after having successfully used Pit-Stop? Balance/weight issues? Shortened life span and/or replacement?
there is no balance effect that I can tell. you can extend the life of a tubie by fixing flats even when the ties wear out. I will get an extra 1000 miles out of worn out tire by using pitstop. of course I do not race on those tires
Pitstop has saved me from having to pull a tire off and putting on my spare 9 out of ten times. With the small openings I can’t see it working with a H3 or a disc since the canister needs to be straight in line. My H3 and disc happen to be clincher so I just change a tube if necessary.
would it work the same with a valve extender in place? With deep aero rims it would be impossible for me to get to the actual valve mid-race, just the extender (though the actual valve should still be open underneath, just can’t get to it)
I ride zipp 404s with valve extenders just push the pit stop can down all the way to the rim. same case if the tire is completely flat push the valve up through the rim so you can get the can on all the way
I have used the Caffelatex product successfully and it has the advantage of using a tube to dispense the contents, so you can use it with a disc.
The key for me was to make sure the tire had zero air AND the valve was open. I think that’s why they recommend pointing the can up.
I know it’s too late now, but I’d give the other stuff a shot before you quit on the whole product category. I still carry an extra tubular though if I know I won’t be able to call for a ride home. With a large puncture on an old tire, I didn’t waste the can I had with me and just put on my spare pre-glued tubbie.
/kj
I just had an opportunity to test this product on clinchers this weekend. I put ~50ml of caffelatex (liquid) in my training tires a couple weeks ago. Yesterday, I noticed my tire was flat before I started my ride. I tried to pump it up without success. I used a new tire/tube for my ride. My friend got a flat which I tried to inflate with the the caffelatex espresso (i.e. the pressurized canister). I could not get the tube to seal onto the threaded stem (white stuff kept going everywhere). Today, I mounted my old tire/tube on a spare rim. I tried to inflate it with the caffelatex espresso and still could not get it to seal on the smooth stem (no sweaty fingers this time). All 3 attempts resulted in sealant everywhere and maybe 20 psi of pressure. I tried to pump it up after spinning the wheel to distribute sealant (both the stuff from the canister as well as the preventative sealant). It wouldn’t hold at all. I inspected the tube (again) and could barely see the hole (only clue was the sealant leaking). I pumped up the tube without being in the tire and even under low pressure it would not hold.
I’ve learned my lesson–don’t count on this product line. If it’s operator error, I doubt I will be able to figure it out when I’m tired and in a hurry during a race. I desperately want to like this stuff.