I’ve been using the tool at the link below for tightening through axles, seatposts, stems, and aerobars. Am I crazy? No problems so far (nothing has cracked or come loose), but I’m starting to question the wisdom of my cheapskate tendencies…
It’s cheap because of the simple torque measuring mechanism. But it’s made by Topeak and Canyon provides the same style with their bikes. I’d say it’s perfectly fine for bike assembly. I’d trust it more than a cheap ratcheting torque wrench costing double or triple of this design.
I have several nice torque wrenches but often just grab the Canyon one.
That’s pretty much the exact same torque wrench that Canyon sends in the box with every bike they sell. I’m sure that every torque wrench is off by a hair just as every bolt also has it’s ±. Sounds like you’re doing great so far.
Ian
my experience getting it with Canyon bike is its cheap plastic and I wouldn’t trust it.
its not like you are saving hundreds of dollars here, just get a “real” one on amazon, its about $40. not worth cracking a carbon frame or seatpost for $30
A torque wrench is really the only tool you do not want to skimp $$$ on. Get a good quality one. You will always be confident that you will not be destroying your valuable bicycle.
Additionally, good hand tools last multiple lifetimes. I still use my great-grandfather’s monkey wrench and ratcheting screwdriver that both date from the 1910’s.
That Topeak wrench is perfectly fine. Its limitations are that it is a simple beam style wrench, which means that you have to look at the scale to determine torque (as opposed to a clicker-type wrench that provides tactile feedback when you reach the set torque). So it’s a bit slower in use.
These beam wrenches have some advantages, too. For one, they are inexpensive. For another, they are very accurate and do not really go out of calibration unless grossly abused. I would rather have that inexpensive Topeak than a clicker wrench that cost 2-3 times as much; the Topeak would be far more reliable.
my experience getting it with Canyon bike is its cheap plastic and I wouldn’t trust it.
its not like you are saving hundreds of dollars here, just get a “real” one on amazon, its about $40. not worth cracking a carbon frame or seatpost for $30
Curious which $40 torque wrench off Amazon you trust the calibration on?
CDI torque control is just a hair over that and probably the best value torque wrench for most bike bolts.
Fwiw I’d look at generic torque wrenches before a “cycling†torque wrench.
my experience getting it with Canyon bike is its cheap plastic and I wouldn’t trust it.
its not like you are saving hundreds of dollars here, just get a “real” one on amazon, its about $40. not worth cracking a carbon frame or seatpost for $30
For reasons mentioned by eb, you have it backwards. The $30 ratchet style torque wrenches are far more likely to be inaccurate. Complex junk can be more expensive than a simple accurate tool.
To echo another post, CDI is a great choice for torque wrenches if OP wants to upgrade.
CDI torque control is just a hair over that and probably the best value torque wrench for most bike bolts.
CDI is owned by Snap-on. They make quality stuff, and the prices are fair if you avoid the Snap-on branded wrenches.
1- Get a common multi-tool.
2- Orient the tool such that it mimics a screwdriver
3- Tighten away. You’ll find that unless you’re freakishly strong, it’s really hard to put out more than 5 nm of force in the ‘screwdriver’ configuration.
Curious which $40 torque wrench off Amazon you trust the calibration on?
For me, this one: 1/4 Inch Drive Micrometer Torque Wrench (20-200 in.-lb.) | TEKTON | 24320
TEKTON 1/4 Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (20-200 in.-lb.) | 24320 - - Amazon.com
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Tekton is also what I use.