So I disconnected the battery, rear der, and aero shifters when packing my bike. The battery was fully charged when I left. I connect everything back up and nothing. No lights on the a junction, no movement.
Thoughts? What should I try to get it back. I do not have the charger with me.
The battery is the brains of the whole system-- it provides both power and network management. So, if you got nada, then the problem is most likely either disconnected battery or dead battery.
Edit: The other thing that can take down a CAN bus network is a shorted wire. So, give it a glance around for any wires that could have been damaged or crushed during travel.
Are all the plugs definitely fully seated? if the system can’t find all the parts it’s meant to have it won’t work at all.
The FD can be a bit of a pain to plug in - I’d unplug it and press it back in, then work around the other connectors.
Is there any order that I should follow when plugging the various components in? Like battery last or first?
It does not matter. The CAN bus architecture is designed to be simple and self-recognizing/healing for hostile environments. The system just needs the battery to be a “live” network. No other components or order matter. I have not personally tested it on mine, but I think that you could do a bare minimum test with the battery, a button, and a derailleur. If it is all dead, the problem has to be the battery itself or a short.
Edit: in removing the battery, any chance you unseated the battery’s cable from the Junction B in the bottom bracket area?
That is my worry. The battery s disconnected in the frame.
Do you have the EW-WU111 wireless unit that lets you connect via Ant+ & Bluetooth? If so, you could try a brute force test of connecting just the battery and EW-WU111 directly together and see if you can access the battery via the eTube app on your phone. If that works, you at least know the battery is good, and the problem would likely be a shorted or disconnected wire.
If you can, unplug everything accept the A Junctuon and the battery. Plug in charger and see if the orange light turns on the charger.
If no light - the battery is not connected properly - if you get a light - one or more if the components is either not plugged incorrectly or you have a short.
No, not that advanced of a setup. Just a really basic one.
I’ve had some issues with dead batteries that have been costly and now just travel with an extra charger just in case. I also made sure to install dummy plugs in any open ports in junctions A and B. Currently have a road bike with the battery in the seatpost and I just disconnect that when breaking the bike down for travel and it seems to work well now. TT bike its more integrated and cant do that.
Well rats. It won’t help you now, but I highly recommend that upgrade. It is only $100 total on Amazon for the device and wire. And, you can easily install it yourself at the cockpit between your Junction A and the downtube wire. Plus, the head unit interface is kinda cool.
Yeah, I have looked into it. Probably will make that upgrade soon. Turns out it wouldn’t have helped. My issue was a a simple user error. Just did not fully plug the battery in when I reinstalled the seat post. Lesson learned, when you are tired from travel, double check your work when building your bike back up. Glad it was nothing though. Thanks for all the suggestions on what to check.
So, I picked up the Bluetooth connection device for my di2 setup. For a first test install I simply connected it at the junction a and it is hanging out in the air. I was looking to find a nicer/cleaner location to hide it and was wondering if Shimano’s warning of it needing to be not within the frame is true or more like Shimano saying only use Shimano cassette’s etc… Do you know if I connected it between my battery and the junction a at the battery hidden in the seat tube if I would have trouble connecting to it from my phone? I don’t have a compatible head unit yet, but I should consider that for the future too I suppose. Figured it was worth asking before I jump in to moving it.
Thanks
No idea. But, I cannot imagine signal attenuation would be that bad through a carbon fiber frame. If you had a metal frame, that would be a different story. The worst you could do would be to test it and see. Since it is only a phone, then you could always hold the phone closer to the device (inside the frame) top ensure a good connection. Ant+ and a head unit could be different, but I bet not.
I have mine in the seat tube of a felt AR under the battery. It connects fine with both my phone and Garmin edge 520.
Awesome. Thanks for the post. Good to hear it works for others. Now I can sit down and take some time to really neaten yo my di2 cockpit now that I have it all sorted out.