3 days to my event I blow a tubular on my carbon rim. Got a tire, glue, and old tire off. My question is:
I see some people don’t clean the existing glue off, just apply glue over. I’ve always thought old glue needed removed? Which ways correct?
One last question. Its going on a planet x 101, the only tubulars in my area in stock are these vittoria 23-28. What was on the wheel was a vittoria 20-28… Before I get to glue, will these 23-28 be fine?
I’ve never removed old glue. I just add a new layer (about half a tube), wait a few minutes, then put new tire on (inflated to about 30psi), straighten, inflate to full pressure, leave overnight to dry. You’ll be fine. The old glue will combine with the new.
Most of the time the old glue is fine unless very very old. You probably risk more trying to remove the old glue and have solvents remain that weaken the new glue.
Either way works but reusing old glue is obviously quicker. Glue is a solvent and when applied, will soften the old layer of glue and most will agree that as long as the old layer is not littered with bits of shredded base tape or contaminated by some other foreign substance, then nothing wrong with the glue and go method. This is what I did with a Zipp 808 last week - carefully peeled off the flat tubular, added a line of 3M electrical tape around the edge on each side to help keep glue off brake track , applied a thin layer of Vittoria Mastik One to both the rim and the new tire and let sit for a few hours. then finally a last thin layer of Mastik on the rim and install the tire.
Yes, that is correct. Everyone has their preferred method. I personally think most people go overboard when gluing.
If I have a new tire to install:
smear a coating of glue onto the wheel. If there isn’t an old layer of glue, then I will wait a few minutes and then smear a second thin coating on. Probably 2/3 of a tube total.
After waiting a few more minutes, I inflate the tire to roughly 30 psi (no glue on the tire base tape), and stretch it onto the wheel using the toes over rim method. Straighten, inflate, leave over night.
20 years, never had one roll, always still a bitch to get off.
If you want to see how the Rabobank pro mechs do it (very similar), watch this:
what do you think of the findings that a more involved gluing process has consistently measure at significantly lower rolling resistance?
not worth the trouble?
Yes, that is correct. Everyone has their preferred method. I personally think most people go overboard when gluing.
If I have a new tire to install:
smear a coating of glue onto the wheel. If there isn’t an old layer of glue, then I will wait a few minutes and then smear a second thin coating on. Probably 2/3 of a tube total.
After waiting a few more minutes, I inflate the tire to roughly 30 psi (no glue on the tire base tape), and stretch it onto the wheel using the toes over rim method. Straighten, inflate, leave over night.
20 years, never had one roll, always still a bitch to get off.
If you want to see how the Rabobank pro mechs do it (very similar), watch this:
For time trial bike I simply remove old tubular stretch new one over rim, lightly inflate, centre tubular and peel about 6 inches of the tubular of the rim opposite the valve, put a blob of glue on the rim, spread with a tyre lever replace tubular and move on to the next 6 inch section. No mess, 10 minutes and job done. I leave a 1-2inch section un glued opposite the valve to make punctured tubular removal simpler.
I’ve definitely had time trial events where missing 1 detail like that, or a couple, would have caused me to place lower.
as has my wife
and pretty much everyone I know.
tri gets a little more complicated and mass start bike races much more so.
But, as I will always point out - yes, any one detail may seem to silly to bother with. But those who pay attention to 100 little details will be a lot faster than those who don’t pay attention to any.
Does anyone really think they placed lower in their race because they used butyl tubes instead of latex?
Gotcha. One last question. Its going on a planet x 101, the only tubulars in my area in stock are these vittoria 23-28. What was on the wheel was a vittoria 20-28… Before I get to glue, will these 23-28 be fine?
I’ve definitely had time trial events where missing 1 detail like that, or a couple, would have caused me to place lower.
as has my wife
and pretty much everyone I know.
tri gets a little more complicated and mass start bike races much more so.
But, as I will always point out - yes, any one detail may seem to silly to bother with. But those who pay attention to 100 little details will be a lot faster than those who don’t pay attention to any.
Does anyone really think they placed lower in their race because they used butyl tubes instead of latex?
You may be absolutely right, I dunno. I’ve always looked at a lot of these data points with a grain of salt.
For example, I was watching a video of the 2010 Kona Ironman last night. I noticed that one of the top males (honestly forget which) was using a normal road helmet. Now I thought that the aero helmets were one of the biggest factors in gaining time, yet a top rider decides not to use it for a very long TT where it would in theory have a major impact. So I guess things like that remind me that the small things, like crr, probably won’t affect me…
Again, just my .02, and I could be 100% wrong.