I’m sure in some way this has been answered. But a quick search didn’t come up with the answer.
My LBS has said that they need 3 days to glue tubulars, 2 nights for two sets of layers to cure and the third for the tire to go on. This sounds a bit excessive to me and seems to be too long a process?
One coat on rim + one coat on tire.
Wait a bit (1-4 hours?).
One more coat on rim + one more coat on tire.
Wait overnight.
One coat on rim and mount tire.
Wait overnight.
Ride.
This is how I do it for new tires/wheels. If there is an existing layer of glue, I may skip a step or just do one coat, wait an hour, do another coat, and then let them hang out overnight and ride the next day.
Follow the directions on the glue you’re using. The 3 day process was really meant for a time when the glue wasn’t as good (per my LBS). I followed the directions on the Vittoria Mastik bottle and never had any issues and it was still harder than hell to get the tire off:
Mastik directions taken directly from the website:
Gluing and mounting
1 Lightly abrade the rim base to provide a key for the cement, clean with gentle solvent, and leave to dry. (Carbon rims: follow manufacturer’s instructions, or just clean with soapy water.) 2 Clean the base tape of the tubular with just soapy water and a gentle cleaner (no solvent) and let dry. 3 Spread a thin layer of Mastik over the rim, and over the base tape. 4 After 5–10 minutes, apply a second coat of Mastik to the rim only. 5 Leave to dry for 3–5 minutes. 6 Mount the tubular on the rim, inflate slightly, and center it. 7 Inflate the tubular to working pressure. Mastik reaches its full strength after about 24 hours. 8 Before each ride, check pressure and inflate tubular to the pressure indicated on the sidewall.
3 day process is best if there is no glue on rim or tyre if there is already glue on rim and tyre just one coat on rim tyre straight on inflate slightly centre, inflate to full pressure, leave over night, ride.
Well there is already some glue, I just bought the bike and the glue job was pretty bad the first time around (tire was moving and could be peeled off). So that explains my complaints about the control issues on the new bike and the extender wasn’t on right so it wasn’t holding pressure.
I just don’t want to wait 3 days when I glue tires myself
4-5 **thin **layers of Mastik on the rim and 3 **thin **layers of Mastik on the base tape. at least 12 hours between each application. Actually about to start the process now as i’m only a month away from my first race
4-5 **thin **layers of Mastik on the rim and 3 **thin **layers of Mastik on the base tape. at least 12 hours between each application. Actually about to start the process now as i’m only a month away from my first race
oh the joys of tubular glue sniffing
You get half credit (for your last sentence). Everyone else fails. For a passing grade, beer must be mentioned.
if it was a bad glue job i would recommend removing all glue from the rim and starting from scratch also i would learn the proper application and do it yourself. i wouldn’t trust a shop gluing my tubs with the amount of half ass glue jobs i have seen out there.
day 1
lightly sand rim
clean with acetone
1 thin layer on rim
1thin layer on base tape
day 2
2nd thin layer on rim
day 3
third thin layer on rim
mount tyre straight after
day 4
ready to ride
Not interested in starting a tape vs glue thread as I think it’s been pretty well beaten to death - but you may want to consider using tufo tape.
At a minimum, for training. Simply because it’s a heck of a lot faster/cheaper to mount than waiting around / paying for / or doing a properly glued job yourself.
Al Morrison did a test a few years ago and I am not sure if it has been updated since, but apparently ~0.0002 diff in Crr between glued and taped. Believe that’s approximately a 2-3 watt diff at AG speeds (35-40kph)… unless you’re at the pointy end where a handful of theoretical seconds is what is preventing you from achieving your goals, I’d say go for the tape.
For sure, you can glue the tubular onto your race rims - but as many have pointed out - the amt of glue and skill required to ensure it’s literally not EVER coming off the rim can be time consuming, expensive, and painful. But if you’re of the school that it’s pitstop or bust, then go for it.
I have both clinchers and tubulars. Different tools for different races/etc. I wish I could tell you tyre choice, the hysterisis between tubular and clincher, etc were the major hurdles I’m facing in my AG records - but it ain’t. Just need to train harder, smarter, and race the same. (I do, however, try to get the lowest Crr tyres /tube system I can afford while keeping an eye on the relative puncture protection it affords)
When I was on tubulars a few years ago I did pretty much what you are saying to do.
When I was a teenager I would mount the tire on the rim and then poke glue in between the tire and rim with a screwdriver and a popsicle stick. Never had a problem back then either. I wouldn’t recommend doing that now but it worked.
I use Conti glue. 1 tube (25g) for 1 wheel/tire. 1 thin layer on each. Wait 12 hours (recommended) and another thin layer on the wheel. Mount the tire and let it cure over night. Ride. I use latex gloves/finger to apply the glue to base tape and rim when I use the tubes of glue. I’ve only glued up around 20-30 wheels and I’m down to maybe 15 minutes to apply the first layer and 5 for the final.
I’m getting ready to glue my pair of tires soon and have a related question.
Do I need a clean brush each day for the glue? Is there a way to save it over the few days so it will not dry out?
Steve
It’s matter of using the correct solvent. Try mineral turpentine (that’s what it’s called in Australia). If that doesn’t work then use disposable brushes, often referred to acid brushes.
Another technique is to lay the glue on the centre of the rim then spead it over the rim with your finger (with gloves).