I just got a 90mm flo and never thought about the rear tube being an issue. I know that I will need to get tubes with removable cores, and then valve extenders etc. I saw that zipp has the little wrenches and such. I guess they don’t make a tube with a long valve (I don’t think I want to run latex) do they?
I guess I would love some direction where I could do all of this online-rather than going to the store and getting ripped off.
I just got a 90mm flo and never thought about the rear tube being an issue. I know that I will need to get tubes with removable cores, and then valve extenders etc.
You definitely don’t need tubes with removable cores, that will really limit your choices. Get the tube that is the best fit for your needs and then get the right length of these. They fit on any presta tube:
okay, dumb question…
If I don’t get the removable core, how likely is it that my tire will lose air during the swim and ride…56 or 112? If it is not much, that is cool, but is it stupid to fear losing 10 pounds?
I actually have both setups right now: the non-removable core tubes with extenders similar to the Zipps pictured in the previous post on my training bike… and removable core version on my tri bike. I use teflon tape on the threads to make the tri bike setup more airtight. I notice no difference between the two bikes in terms of how fast they lose air. As I get closer to my A race, I’ll switch the tri bike to latex tubes with Orange Seal, and that is where using the removable cores helps (inserting the sealant). If not for that, I’d just use whatever tubes are most easily accessible.
okay, dumb question…
If I don’t get the removable core, how likely is it that my tire will lose air during the swim and ride…56 or 112? If it is not much, that is cool, but is it stupid to fear losing 10 pounds?
Don’t get the Zipp extenders, get an inline extender and use RVC tubes, just one less thing to go wrong.
okay, dumb question…
If I don’t get the removable core, how likely is it that my tire will lose air during the swim and ride…56 or 112? If it is not much, that is cool, but is it stupid to fear losing 10 pounds?
Not a dumb question. Neither type will “lose air over time” if installed correctly. But if you want the fastest tubes, you will highly limit your options if you must get removable core tubes for your set up.
And furthermore, the failure modes of hollow extenders and removable core extenders are vastly different. With the hollow type, a complete failure of your seal while riding will have no effect. With removable core extenders, a complete failure of your seal while riding means that you will instantly lose all air in your tire. Something to think about.
okay, dumb question…
If I don’t get the removable core, how likely is it that my tire will lose air during the swim and ride…56 or 112? If it is not much, that is cool, but is it stupid to fear losing 10 pounds?
Not a dumb question. Neither type will “lose air over time” if installed correctly. But if you want the fastest tubes, you will highly limit your options if you must get removable core tubes for your set up.
And furthermore, the failure modes of hollow extenders and removable core extenders are vastly different. With the hollow type, a complete failure of your seal while riding will have no effect. With removable core extenders, a complete failure of your seal while riding means that you will instantly lose all air in your tire. Something to think about.
And what are the chances of that? If you take a little time, use a few wraps of teflon tape and store the spares so that the super long stem isn’t being bent, the thing looks bulletproof!
Just make sure the total length (tube stem+extender) is at least 20mm longer than the wheel depth and you’ll be fine.
The only benefit I can see for hollow extenders is that you can quickly pop one on a spare tube from a riding buddy if you flat more than you pack spares. Not an issue for me. I only use them for short enough races that I don’t bother with the first spare.
okay, dumb question…
If I don’t get the removable core, how likely is it that my tire will lose air during the swim and ride…56 or 112? If it is not much, that is cool, but is it stupid to fear losing 10 pounds?
Not a dumb question. Neither type will “lose air over time” if installed correctly. But if you want the fastest tubes, you will highly limit your options if you must get removable core tubes for your set up.
And furthermore, the failure modes of hollow extenders and removable core extenders are vastly different. With the hollow type, a complete failure of your seal while riding will have no effect. With removable core extenders, a complete failure of your seal while riding means that you will instantly lose all air in your tire. Something to think about.
^^^^^This.
I’ve had removable valve cores vibrate loose and cause a flat. Never had a non-removable one leak.
When you get a new tube, unscrew the valve and crimp the little brass nut on the end with pliers so it can’t screw back down (a drop of superglue works too). This prevents the valve from screwing shut when you thread on an extender. Wrap some teflon tape around the threads on the valve stem and screw on the extender. You’re done.
Using a Zipp-style extender also means you can borrow a tube from a friend on a ride and not be SOL if it doesn’t have a removable core.
There’s no reason you can’t use removable core extenders on your training/race setup, but also carry the hollow type in your repair kit in case you get a flat.
I’ll be running latex tubes with removable cores on my tri bike this year, but my repair kit will have two spare tubes with the hollow-type extenders ready to go. That way, if god-forbid I end up with multiple flats it might be possible to continue racing if a SAG wagon or someone on the course can loan me a random spare tube.
Okay, so, ive learned to get the valve extender open without removable core presta valves. And to use teflon tape (I did see that in the flo video before I posted this).
I guess in hindsight, I would have bought a 60mm rear instead. Less to worry about.
Why doesnt anyone make a 95mm valve for clincher? Seems lime they would do pretty well…
Use extenders even with 60mm wheels. It means you can buy standard tubes, and can borrow one in a pinch.
I run a 6/9 combo on my roadie, and sticking with standard valve extensions is quite helpful.
Added note: Do the crimp and teflon tape treatment to the spare tube in your flat kit. This prevents stupid mistakes like installing the new tube/tire/extender only to realize you can inflate it because the vale is screwed shut (not that that’s ever happened to me). No need to carry extra extenders, just use the one from the flatted tube.
I used the zipp extenders with zipp tangent tubulars and the presta valves were always getting stuck and it was a problem. so I bought conti compettion and removed the cores and added enough tubbing and reinstalled the cores so I had direct access to the valves. also if you use vittoria pitstop this will work much better than not having direct access to the presta valve.
Personally I don’t like leaving my valve undone, and the possibility that it could move, bang against the extender and leak air. I prefer to be able to tighten the valve so I always use one of the Topeak extenders. They have a needle down the middle that grips the valve and allows you to tighten it. No removable valve core problems, but a securely closed valve:
I just got a 90mm flo and never thought about the rear tube being an issue. I know that I will need to get tubes with removable cores, and then valve extenders etc. I saw that zipp has the little wrenches and such. I guess they don’t make a tube with a long valve (I don’t think I want to run latex) do they?
I guess I would love some direction where I could do all of this online-rather than going to the store and getting ripped off.
You should receive a Silca Valve extender with your rear wheel. All FLO 90s ship with a 60mm Silca extender and all FLO 60s ship with a 34mm Silca Extender. Both of these are designed to be used with a 48mm tube. Also, you won’t need the removable core type since these are the “external” type extenders.
Please let me know if you have any questions regarding the installation or set up.
okay, dumb question…
If I don’t get the removable core, how likely is it that my tire will lose air during the swim and ride…56 or 112? If it is not much, that is cool, but is it stupid to fear losing 10 pounds?
Not a dumb question. Neither type will “lose air over time” if installed correctly. But if you want the fastest tubes, you will highly limit your options if you must get removable core tubes for your set up.
And furthermore, the failure modes of hollow extenders and removable core extenders are vastly different. With the hollow type, a complete failure of your seal while riding will have no effect. With removable core extenders, a complete failure of your seal while riding means that you will instantly lose all air in your tire. Something to think about.
^^^^^This.
I’ve had removable valve cores vibrate loose and cause a flat. Never had a non-removable one leak.
When you get a new tube, unscrew the valve and crimp the little brass nut on the end with pliers so it can’t screw back down (a drop of superglue works too). This prevents the valve from screwing shut when you thread on an extender. Wrap some teflon tape around the threads on the valve stem and screw on the extender. You’re done.
Using a Zipp-style extender also means you can borrow a tube from a friend on a ride and not be SOL if it doesn’t have a removable core.
Wish I read this earlier. Air wasn’t going in my new FLO 60 so I figured the Silca extender must be loose. Tried to tighten it and sheared the damn thing off… Turns out the valve had closed. I’ll have fun dealing with it tomorrow.
I have a 3" piece of shift cable with the knob still on the end that I use to poke down the extender to “crack” the valve before pumping. A section of coat hanger works too. If the valve doesn’t push down I know it’s screwed shut; fortunately they are not that hard to unscrew (some threads on ST about how to do it). Crimping at the beginning solves the issue though.
