Dumb question, but how necessary is the O-Ring and Locking nut on a tubeless valve? My LBS just converted me to tubeless, but the 80mm Muc-Off valves weren’t long enough for my Reynolds AR80 rim, so they re-used my existing (non externally threaded) valve extender in conjunction with the new valve (no way to add the locking nut since there’s nothing to thread onto). Without the locking nut, am I setting myself up for a leak/flat? I’m headed to IM Texas, and seems like an unnecessary risk.
Never tried tubeless without the nut, but my assumption would be the nut is very, very important. I would absolutely put a tube in until you can get a proper tubeless stem of appropriate length.
IMHO, your LBS is mucho loco. If it doesn’t work loose by itself when the tire is low on air, the stem will almost certainly get pushed into the tire when you (or someone else) tries to add air.
You aren’t crazy, this is a really bad idea. Not only do you definitely need the nut, using the valve extender pretty much guarantees that you’re going to have a sealant blockage that prevents you from inflating it at some point down the line, probably at the worst possible time (of course).
I would never return to that shop, that set-up is “nuts” to use a term.
BIG caveat, is if the shop somehow bonded the valve in place inside the rim, but even that is a dodgy set-up.
These guys make a 105mm valve at the long end and shorter offerings from there.
You should just be able to push the valve back into the tire… what would even hold it in without a nut?!?! This is why I do most everything in life on my own. I don’t need a 16 year old wannabe mechanic kid killing me.
There’s no way the valve would seal without the lock nut unless the valve extender is thicker than the valve hole. Perhaps they figured out a way to make it work. I don’t like extenders as the valve sometimes freezes using CO2 and won’t seal. I would order a 100mm valve from Amazon or have the bike shop do it and re-do the setup. You could even get 110mm if you want a bit more length.
I would never return to that shop, that set-up is “nuts” to use a term.
BIG caveat, is if the shop somehow bonded the valve in place inside the rim, but even that is a dodgy set-up.
These guys make a 105mm valve at the long end and shorter offerings from there.
Not sure if 90 will be enough, but just bought some RESERVE FILLMORE valves suggested by another poster. Expensive but no valve to clog with sealant. I did find I could not use the Park Sealant injector with it because the hole was too small, so had to dump the 2 oz of Stan’s into the tire, rotate it and pop the last bit of tire back on. Nice thing about RESERVE FILLMORE is you don’t have a valve core to bend and start leaking & it won’t bend like a normal presta valve.