Tubeless basics for a tubeless newbie

Triathlon Forum
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So…I am pretty new to tubeless & havent converted myrace wheels. I have a set of Hed wheels & a Hed disc, all tubeless compatible.
I know this has been asked so many times but should I go tubeless or not for triathlon?
I have heard a few disaster stories but are they common?
I have afew basic questions…
If youhave gone tubeless, what spares if any do you carry for an IM?
How regular do you change the sealant?
I have always stuck towhat I know i.e. clinchers but am I m,issing out on benefits of tubeless?
Pros and cons please?

Thanks and apologies for the basic questions :slight_smile:

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if it ain’t broke, and you aren’t chasing AG world championships, don’t fix it. just keep running tubes is my 0.02.

I’ve tried switching to tubeless twice. Once in 2020, and once in 2023 and both times i just went right back to good old latex tubes within 6 months or less. the hassle of dealing with sealant was a deal breaker for me, and i had some flats that didn’t seal (when i almost never get flats with tubes). its so annoying to track when you put sealant in, break a tire seal to check how much is in there, worry about how much you’re putting in…spend money on a new pump, sealant, sealant injectors, dealing with mess of it, etc.

Good clincher tires are right there, RR wise, against tubeless, unless you are a marginal gainer worried about things at that level. but most of us, our lives are no different if we finish an IM in 12:30 or 12:28. Testing is not even clear that you must be tubeless to be faster. Some sources say the penalty of using a latex tube vs. sealant is a wash, so if you get top TLR tires and put tubes in them, you might not even have any real measurable RR penalty. Self-sealing flats and ability to more easily run tires over 32mm, is really to me the only tangible benefit of tubeless. but if you have good tires at proper pressure and don’t get a lot of regular flats with tubes, the self sealing thing (at least for me) was sort of a wash, not a huge benefit.

You’ll get different guidance on what to carry, but ultimately you have to carry some sort of spares. tubeless does not eliminate that. either the same array of things you do with tubes, or swap out the tube for a plug kit, but you still need all the rest. and, doing a plug out on the road when you’re 50 miles from home is SUPER stressful. tubes, you can practice endlessly changing them so you’re good at it. Unless you’re willing to repeatedly mutilate your tires, waste plugs, and waste sealant, you can’t practice plugging. The first time you do it will be in a high-stakes moment, hands shaking covered in sealant. you’ll be standing there about to stab your tire wondering what you’re doing with your life!

I don’t oppose tubeless categorically, to each their own, but don’t let the industry convince you that you have to go tubeless. if you’re comfortable with tubes and don’t have any problems that you’re looking to fix, just keep running latex tubes at proper pressure and you’ll be 100% fine and fast.

2 Likes
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Don’t apologize…plenty of us are/were in your shoes. Check out this very recent discussion:

Wisdom from the tubeless prosWisdom from the tubeless pros

And this very recent article/review:

Dynaplug AIR Tubeless Bicycle Tire Puncture Repair Tool

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I went tubeless 3yrs ago and I should have done it 6yrs ago…

Use 40ml latex sealant per 28mm tire.
Depending on use, maybe check 3x year.

Carry a dynaplug and 3 CO2s.

Pros: self-seals most small punctures; you can use lower psi for speed and comfort (I’m 72kg, use 28mm tire with 56/58psi)
Cons: tires can cost 2x as much

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Mostly what @philly1x said. As a non-fundamentalist convert, my decision tree would be:
You’re probably ok to stay with tubes. The benefit of switching, for me, has been primarily comfort and moreso peace of mind riding over more crap at lower pressure than id dream of with tubes.

But - if you are only pulling out or maintaining tires twice a year (discs or so) and if you can’t get away with sloshing or toothpick testing through valve for topping up making maintenance a factor or - if you’re on pristine roads or short rides and comfort is no problem, then the hassle may outweigh the benefits.

Also for love of all that isn’t holy (namely our beloved intact tires) don’t use that silca sealant. Love to silca, but that crap dries fast and so hard that you end up needing new tires. Leave that for folks on the edge case off-road high maintenance sealant types. With that caveat, I personally have not yet regretted the move to tubeless, and consider a slightly increased maintenance off the road to be compensated by lower maintenance and comfort on road (so far).

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I use Continental Grand Prix 5000 clincher tires (23mm) with Vittoria latex tubes.

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I’ve ran tubeless on my gravel bike for years, and only recently learned some sealants contain ammonia, which is corrosive. Aluminum that’s anodized is apparently ok, but sometimes the sealant will seep under rim tape and corrode the nipples. It’s on my winter todo list to inspect my gravel rims to verify if it’s been an issue for me. Additionally, I’ve historically ran tire liners for my gravel wheels, but will be taking them out. Just not convinced they do anything other than get you home the last couple miles, and if racing it isn’t worth it. Tire liners also make the tire more difficult to remove and is baggage if you have to fix a flat with a tube.

Running tubeless means you carry spares for both tubeless and tubes. Tubeless spares would include bacon strips/Dynaplug/Stans dart tool. Tubeless tires in my experience are more difficult to take off than normal tires, so I also have an extra tire lever in case one breaks. So all the above, plus your normal tube related spares (tube, valve extenders, patch kits, etc).

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