Trek Speed Concept Bottom Bracket

Triathlon Forum
1

Hey ST,

I know that the Trek Speed Concept has a non-threated, press-in bottom bracket. Since it comes with a SRAM Crankset (the SRAM Rival in my case), is this Crankset a standard GXP crankset or something made specifically for Trek? If I wanted to put another SRAM GXP crankset in there, could I just swap out or do I need to use a Press-In Bottom Bracket anytime I take out the installed crank? Thanks.

2

plain ol’ GXP…swap to your heart’s content with other GXP with very very few exceptions (like the FSA/Vision TriMax carbon cranks…which have some material on the inside of the spider which interferes with the BB86/BB90 flanges on the SC7 & SC9)
.

3

Do be aware, however, that if you switch to a Shimano or other type of crank, the standards are different on the 7 and the 9 series. Just make sure you get the right one.
/kj

4

I was thinking more along the lines of Force or Red, so within the SRAM family still.

5

In that case, just rip and replace. I pulled out my Apex crank and popped in a GXP Quarq.

6

Hi Carl, I want to replace the SRAM compact crank on my Speed Concept with a standard SRAM crank. Can you recommend an online store where I can buy a standard SRAM crank?

7

We believe in our dealers, so the only online resource I would point you to is any of our dealers who participate in our online order fulfillment system. Use the retailer finder at www.trekbikes.com to see who is nearby and give them a call to find out.

8

Hi Carl,

I am considering a Quarq PM and they appear to be either GXP or BB30. My bike is a 2012 SC9 with an Ultegra crank. What would I need in addition to the Quarq pm? I will be running 11 spd Di2 as well so the Quarq will be the Red 22.

Thanks

Ray

9

You’ll need to get the Quarq in GXP BB format, and a GXP BB kit for your bike. the latter, from your Trek dealer:

411814 ceramic
404700 steel

10

Thanks very much Carl. Would you recommend the ceramic one?

11

I stay out of religious discussions :wink:

particularly when anyone reading my response could take it as “Trek says…” regardless of how may personal/opinion disclaimers I put on it.

gregk wrote a really nice article on bearings that should get you thinking.

12

:slight_smile: thanks again.

13

Thanks very much Carl. Would you recommend the ceramic one?

Worthwhile read: http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Bearing_Breakdown_2822.html

14

Thanks Pooks
.

15

Carl,

You are the greatest asset that Trek has and I really appreciate your availability to answer questions for us.

Had Sram BB
Installing Shimano BB

Do I need to remove the inner shield from the Sram BB with the included Shimano BB kit I received or can I clean it up and move forward with installing the shimano bearings?

If I do need to remove, how does one do that?

16

thanks for the kind words.

no need to remove the axle shield to change your bearings. if for whatever reason you did want to remove it, it’s a simple telescopic fit…should be able to simply stick a finger in about 2-3cm from each side and apply some pressure to the walls as you pull them back out.

17

Carl,

Thank you for the quick reply….

I few more things while I still have you. I am installing 9070 on this bike and the SC Di2 kit I received only had 2 rubber grommets on it. I believe that one should work on the brake cover but with the smaller e-tube wires it doesn’t stay in the hole, there is another that looks like it is for the base bar but why only 1 unless I was suppose to get 2 for some reason, will the regular cable grommets work with the e-tube at all?

Also is there a way to orient the junction box B down by the brake with all the wires to get it to fit without interfering with the rear brake?

18

Those grommets were definitely designed before eTube came along, so the fit is likely to be loose. You can wrap a few turns of electrical tape or similar on your eTube in the region of the grommet to improve the grip. The Di2 kit doesn’t include basebar grommets…only one for the brake cover and another for the rear dropout. And, as noted in your other thread, junction box B goes inside the frame…easiest to make the connections through the side of the BB with the BB spindle shield removed (which you now know how to do) and then tuck everything up inside before reinstalling the cranks. Only need the one wire to exit near the brake for the battery (if you’re running the external battery).