I bought a Kinetics by Kurt Road Machine, and have a couple months experience with it now. I love it because if I did not have it, I would not be riding this winter. BUT now I see some limitations. First of all, hard cycling, hill climbs, etc. Since it is a fluid trainer, there is an upper limitation with my bike (3x8=24 speeds). At the highest gear, when I get out of the seat to really push hard, I am maxed out, and cannot get as much resistance as I need to really push it. I do not think there is a solution to this, except to move into a magnetic trainer, where I am expecting the upper resistance to be programmable to some degree.
Additionally, I am finding that pushing hard like on a hill climb does not exactly simulate well with the Road Machine’s stationary platform. I am now seriously considering the Rock and Roll, allowing for side to side motion. Any thoughts on the two trainers and fluid vs magnetic for harder workouts? The Rock and Roll is more expensive, so not sure if I can swing this right away. It also does not have a magnetic resistance unit.
The rock and roll really doesn’t simulate outdoors.
For the highest gear, what are the ratios for your front/rear cassette? If you look at the power curve, you can see you can push up to 1,000 watts on it no problem. If you are maxing it out, you should be a pro or you don’t have the wheel tightened down enough.
If you are truly maxed out and can’t get enough resistance from the training, there must be something wrong with it. The power curve on that is substantial and it would take in excess of 1,200 watts to truly max it out.
If you are truly maxed out and can’t get enough resistance from the training, there must be something wrong with it. The power curve on that is substantial and it would take in excess of 1,200 watts to truly max it out.
Agreed.
What size front chainrings and rear cassette gearing/choices?
like others said, if you’re using standard gearing something must be off…you’d have to put out insanely high watts to max this thing out, something a triathlete (pro or not) would never do.
Regarding the Rock n Roll…i believe the best benefit is it’s comfort. It has a much more natural motion than being locked into a static trainer. Riding a trainer is never going to be exactly the same as on the road, but this one gets you a lot closer
I don’t know what you guys are talking about, I’m only 140lbs and can max out that trainer with a 53/11, maybe I need a 55.
I will check my bike’s gearing out tonight, but I am thinking it will probably be in the same range. Perhaps we are onto something here, some bad units?
I don’t know what you guys are talking about, I’m only 140lbs and can max out that trainer with a 53/11, maybe I need a 55.
I will check my bike’s gearing out tonight, but I am thinking it will probably be in the same range. Perhaps we are onto something here, some bad units?
did you miss the pink in his post?
sort of beating it to death at this point, but yeah, you really shouldn’t be able to max it out. that thing has some serious resistance. make sure:
tire is pumped up
flywheel is really cranked down. you’re supposed to turn the little knob until it just barely touches the tire, and THEN turn it anywhere from 2 to 5 more complete revolutions. i usually find that 2 is plenty.
Something is amiss - I have Kurt Kinetic ( awesome trainer - best of the basic resistance trainers) and I have never come close to maxing that thing out.
As for the Rock & Roll, I don’t know anything about that set-up. Something that will serve you better for way less money is set of rollers ( in addition to the resistance unit).
define “maxed out.” If you’re pedaling at a normal 90+ cadence, then you shouldn’t max out on resistance as all the posts say. I do find it hard to replicate a realistic climb with a cadence of <75-80 RPM, though. Then I have trouble getting over about 250 watts without picking up the cadence.
I do find it hard to replicate a realistic climb with a cadence of <75-80 RPM, though.
I think this is what I am talking about. A cadence of around 60 is what I was looking for, something that felt like some of the hills around my neighborhood.
My coach has given plenty of plans for 50-60 rpm mashing (and 110+ cadence drills as well) - cyclist only.
It is indeed hard to replicate a 50-60 rpm mash fest on a Kurt Kinetic. Can do some 70 rpm drills though. It isn’t really a power issue since 60 rpm drills aren’t really about holding power so I don’t really pay attention. With sprint drills on a trainer, it is pretty tough to get above 800w and darn near impossible to go over 1000W where on the road that would be relatively easy (at least for a short time).
